pulling my hair on a 1985 johnson 20 Hp

kooner

Cadet
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
18
ok so i bought this boat earlier in the summer. needed some work but overall had good structure and it ran. ive gotten most everything finished with no problems until now. the boat has a 1985 Johnson 20hp J20ELCOS on it. it ran ok but could tell it definitely needed a carb rebuild. it ran but acted restricted, the primer bulb wouldnt get stiff and i could tell the float was out of adjustment, and really didn't idle all that great. while doing some research for parts i stumbled on some info about how to convert the motor to a little more hp and many people said it helped the motor to run better all together and idle better, which is what i needed. so when i removed the carb i found the intake was restricted as well as the inlet port to for the electric primer was broken. so i pulled the intake and had it machined to match the opening of the carb and also had the port repaired for hose from the primer. i rebuilt the carb after soaking it overnight in carb cleaner and blowing it out with a compressor. i found that the float was way out of wack and that also the slow speed needle had nothing to seal to like the piece that came in the new rebuild kit. after reassembling the carb and getting the intake back i reassembled everything with new gaskets. i now found that my primer bulb pumps up tight i have no fuel leaks and i was good to go. so i set the slow speed needle to 1 1/2 turns out from gently seated and put the hose on it in the driveway and started it up. this is where the problems begin. it would run but only if i gave it throttle and it was acting like a backfire and would not idle. i tried adjusting the slow speed needle as it says and couldnt get it to change. still having the "popping" effect and no idle. so i experimented and opened the slow speed needle way up and it seemed to get better but wouldnt idle. the only time i could get it to smooth out is if i put my fingers over the carb an choked some of the air off. so i figured i needed a bigger main jet to be able to adjust and compensate for the extra air i was giving the motor from opening up the intake to match the carb. so i came here and researched the part numbers between the 20hp and 30 hp. i found that they are all the same part number except the main jet orifice in the carb. even the leaf plates are the same and leaf stops which i assume is just like the reeds in a dirt bike. idk maybe im wrong. so i ordered the new orifice and replaced it and tried again. the results i got where that it will idle for a short time and seems a little better but still not right. so here i am. can anyone help? not sure what to do from here. any help would be greatly appreciated im at my wits end.
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
What do you mean by "the slow speed needle had nothing to seal to"? The low speed needle seats against the machined hole in the carb body. The other side of the hole is visible if you remove the small welch plug on the top of the carb. That hold must be clean and clear. The tip of the needle seats against the hole to close it off, then you back it out to meter the idle fuel, usually about 1 to 1-1/2 turn.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,739
I think he means the plastic piece that the needle first screws into on the outside of the carburetor.
 

kooner

Cadet
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
18
im not sure on compression but i know it feels like the compression is good when u try to turn the motor over by hand. Chinewalker u r correct about the macined surfaces but in the kit there was a plastic peice that goes down in there to basically resurface where the needle seats at. and then on the outside of the carb is a plastic like seal that racerone is reffering too. i replaced the one on the outside and also put the plastic piece in to resurface where the slow speed needle seats at. could this be my problem you think? i need to pull that back out? on the breakdown it doesnt show this part but it has one in the rebuild kit
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
If you're talking about the small plastic piece that goes on the end of the needle, to remove it I always straightened out a small fish hook and used that to remove it.
 

kooner

Cadet
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
18
If you're talking about the small plastic piece that goes on the end of the needle, to remove it I always straightened out a small fish hook and used that to remove it.


thanks boobie. i was wondering how i was goin to get it out haha i will do that
 

kooner

Cadet
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
18
Yep, get that piece out of there.


well that seems to have done the trick. i removed that piece and blew out the carb once more.. put the hose on it an it started right up. tweaked the slow speed to where it idles well and comes up thru the rpms without too much stumble.. im soo happy. i cant believe that little piece of plastic screwed everything up so bad. i dont know why they would even put that in the rebuild kit. now the real test will be on the water. but i do have one more worry.. should i leave the bigger jet in the carb since i opend it up on the intake to match the carb to account for the extra air or do u think i should put the smalled jet back in? i just wonder if under a load will i be flooding it out when i give it fuel with the bigger jet? or for that matter put a little hotter plug in it? or should i leave well enough alone and just change prop later on. the whole point behind doing wat i did was to make it run better overall, idle better, and if possible get just ever so slight more amount of power if possible.. the motor is on a tracker pro v170 17' an as it was b4 all this it almost had enough umph to get it to plane off where i could back down on the throttle an cruise along without having to be wide open an goin no where in a hurry.
 
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