1966 Evinrude Lark 8 40HP (New to Iboats, need help)

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Hello everyone,
I acquired an 66' evinrude for a really good price. (Came with an aluminum boat and trailer). The fellow who sold it to me claims it will run, it just needs the electrical connected. Im not sure if i trust his opinion :p. This is an electronic shift outboard. I also have the johnson electronmatic controlls. Am i able to pull start this thing to make sure its worth my time to rewire it etc? the bottom end was bone dry ( i pulled the drain to see what would come out) I would re fill it and chage out the impeller. The wiring on this thing justs looks insane to redo. Unfortunatly, im unable to find a service manual for this engine. I do however have a service manual for a 1970 40HP ski twin. If this thing is junk, atleast i have a mint condition ski twin to play with :p

Any input is much appriciated!

Thank,
R
 

racerone

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These motors ( in good condition ) are very reliable and simple to maintain too.----Fill lower unit with type -C gear oil for outboard use.-----Yes you can pull start the motor with no battery attached.
 
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These motors ( in good condition ) are very reliable and simple to maintain too.----Fill lower unit with type -C gear oil for outboard use.-----Yes you can pull start the motor with no battery attached.


Ok, How about not having the controls or junction box attached? The pervious owner looks like they started to rewire everything and gave up. From what i understand, the electric shift defaults to forward gear. Is there a way to test fire it without having anything attached to it? (not even controls etc)
 

oldboat1

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May make for a long(er) thread, but look for BRP Premium Blend for the lower unit -- Evinrude/Johnson rebranded oil for '62-'72 electrics.

[ed. think you might look around eBay for a control unit.]
 
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racerone

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NO,NO, that model electric shift does NOT default to forward gear.-----Yes if the ignition system / magneto is in good conition the motor can be started.-----No need for controls or battery.------You seem anxious to hear noise.---I would start with inspection.----Do a compression test.----Check and see if there is spark on the leads that will jump a gap of 1/4" or more.------Sparkplugs are not used to do that test.
 
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NO,NO, that model electric shift does NOT default to forward gear.-----Yes if the ignition system / magneto is in good conition the motor can be started.-----No need for controls or battery.------You seem anxious to hear noise.---I would start with inspection.----Do a compression test.----Check and see if there is spark on the leads that will jump a gap of 1/4" or more.------Sparkplugs are not used to do that test.


Yes, compression test and spark test is up first. Ill give it a try before firing anything up (need to build motor stand first to bring it inside the garage, Its cold up here in canada) :). Thanks for the help!
 

oldboat1

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see you have a Johnson control box. Not sure what the PO was trying to rig, but if the transom box is on the boat along with the control/shift box, you should be able to get it together. Otherwise, there are always period transom boxes and controls on ebay -- various states of condition and completeness (evinrude push button controls if you have a preference). It's kind of a brute to pull over while on a stand, and might want to do a starter hook up for testing.

Good luck with it. Some pics are useful if you get around to it (and fun).
 
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Here are a few pictures of my new project. Its an 16' aluminum Thornes (built in windsor, Ontario in 1960's) 1966 Evinrude Lark 8 with the Johnson electromatic controls
 

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jimmbo

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Welcome to iboats fellow Canuck

The old man had a 63 40hp with electric shift in the early 70s. Bullet proof engine. You say the gear case was dry? Hmm... Well it might be ok, but there is a chance the bearings are all rusted. Disassembly and inspection would be the prudent thing to do. When you drop the gearcase to replace the impeller, spin the driveshaft once the impeller is out and pay attention to how it feels. Roughness, aside from the gears messing could mean corrosion of the drive and prop shafts . Spinning the propshaft will give an idea of the some of the bearings too. Type C oil for electric shift is the one and only gear oil for it. As said earlier, the engine uses a magneto for spark and will run without a battery. You can always shut it off by flooding it with the choke. Since the engine came with the Electric shift, it will require that the generator works.
 
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You can view a repair manual for your engine at http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1956-1970johnsonevinrude.html#/374. The wiring diagram is on page 375.
BTW you can start your engine without the battery and the control box connected but it won't shut off unless you connect the two magneto wires together.

Always nice to hear from another Canuck. We're in the south end of the Kawatha Lakes.


The kawartha lakes is were this thing is going when its all done :) we have a cottage up near apsley ontario
 

wrench 3

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You'll have a great spot to enjoy it. I did some engine work for a guy on Jack Lake a few years back. I got to stay up there for a couple of days while I did the work. It was a nice spot.
We're down around Lindsay on the Trent system.
 
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So i pulled the lower unit off..... bone dry and rusted. Ive begun to pull out the bearings in hopes of salvaging this thing. I tested the compression and i'm getting 120 PSI on both cylinders. Looks like the electric shift wire shorted out, it was all burnt and melted. Any direction as to where i can find replacement parts for this thing would be awesome!
Thanks,
R
 
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F_R

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Running with a non-functioning water pump will let the exhaust burn up the shift cable. There is also supposed to be a woven insulator sock on the cable. And some models need a modification of the water "Up" tube to supply a spray of cooling water on the cable.
 

racerone

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Used / tested lower units may be available.----Depends on your budget.
 

wrench 3

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If your ever up into Rosedale, Norris marine has a lot of old OMC outboards sitting around. They're second generation OMC specialists.
 
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Does anyone have some advise on how to get the forward gears out of this one? Managed to get the reverse gears off the prop shaft, but now the prop shaft and the forward gears are caught behind the driveshaft splines. it looks like i should be able to slide the prop shaft out,the the drive shaft gears should come out but its stuck pretty good. is there tools for this?
 

wrench 3

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If you have an electric shift, the manual that I gave you the link for says that you remove the drive shaft half a dozen steps before removing the gears.
 
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