Transom and stringer repair

Jakesteel

Cadet
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
14
Got a great deal on a 95 glastron 3.0 mercruiser. Started leaking at the transom. Did some poking around and before i knew it im replacing the wood in the entire boat. Smh. I have 90% torn apart but im still wondering what to use to "glue" the wood to the hull. Im new to this so sorry if im not getting the correct names of the boat.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Nothing is needed to "glue" the wood to the hull, they will be glassed over.
 

shaw520

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 27, 2009
Messages
634
Suggestion; start doing alot of reading here in the 'boat restoration' threads,...plenty of knowledge right here at your finger tips.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
Most everyone in these restoration forums use peanut butter, (resin thickened with cabosil or another thickening agent) to glue the plywood to the hull. This is of course after the plywood is encapsulated in fiberglass. I added 1/4" chop strands to my PB for additional integrity. The transom wood will need to be clamped until the "glue" kicks.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
Got a great deal on a 95 glastron 3.0 mercruiser. Started leaking at the transom. Did some poking around and before i knew it im replacing the wood in the entire boat. Smh. I have 90% torn apart but im still wondering what to use to "glue" the wood to the hull. Im new to this so sorry if im not getting the correct names of the boat.

By the way, welcome aboard! Be sure to post pictures of your resto. You have to post 3 times before you can post pics.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Welcome to IBoats University!!!
The most knowledgeable Boat Restoration Experts in the World are now at your disposal.
Make sure and ask questions BEFORE you do anything you're not absolutely sure of. It will save you lot of Time and Effort if you do.

You might find the 2nd link in my signature line below helpful...

WelcomeAboard.jpg
 

Jakesteel

Cadet
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
14
After reading these last comments you can see why im asking. One person says don't use any adhesive and another says use it. Ive looked through the threads and theres so many different opinions it seems like there isnt an definite answer. The wood i took off was adhered to the hull so im guessing that's what ill do. But again, should i use epoxy, resin, glass in between layers. Ive even read where someone used wood glue!!!! Would epoxy be ok agsinst the hull and between the layers of wood and then glass over it all? Just want to do it right the first time. Don't mind the work. But i don't want to do it every year. Haha
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,157
between layers of wood, use tite-bond iii (lowes, home depot, etc.) its the same glue that is used in the making of exterior grade plywood

I have in the past used a thin PB mix as well between the layers of wood.

I have also used PL construction adhesive between the stingers to hull and bulkheads to hull because I had it and always have some on hand, however it was about 2 weeks before I glassed (the PL adhesive outgasses for about 3-5 days). I used just enough to keep the stringers from moving around. just before I tabbed, I mixed up some PB to fillet everything. I used a heavy plastic bag with the corner cut off and used it like a frosting bag to apply it

as indicated by others, its the fiberglass tabbing that secures the stringers and bulkheads to the deck the "glue" under the stringers is just to hold it in place until the filleting with PB and the tabbing. Woodonglass has the link in his signature that a lot of people reference for tabbing

no need for epoxy. way too expensive and you can not gel coat it, you can only epoxy paint it. for your boat, poly is fine since that is what it was made out of. it will stick just perfect if you did the proper prep work.
 

Jakesteel

Cadet
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
14
Sounds good. Going to finish prepping for the transom this weekend. Going to put some sandpaper to it to ensure proper adhesion. Ive read dont use treated lumber. And ive read its ok to use. Suggestions on this matter is appreciated. Thanks for your help guys!!!!
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
I'll follow along.

The issue with treated lumber is that it has a high moisture content. It must be dried extensively before use. You probably want to purchase it several months before and let it dry. While drying you have to support it so that it doesn't warp. If it isn't dry enough your fiberglass and resin won't stick. Another issue is that it corodes most metals.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Virtually every boat builder that still uses wood, uses PT plywood, it's KD so it works well, you can get this wood, but it's not easy to find for a DIY'r sometimes.

​As mentioned, if glue or adhesive is used between the stringer and hull it's for three things, it spaces the stringer off the hull so you don't create a hard spot, it holds the stringer in place so you can easily work on it, plus it creates a radius so you can easily laminate it. Small boat builders didn't typically use anything, they pre-made a wooden stringer grid and dropped it in place right on the hull, then glass it. So in a way, it makes no difference how you do it.

​The "which resin to use" question comes up often, the true answer is, it really won't make a difference, polyester or epoxy will both do the job and it will out live you, so pick one or the other and get it done.


​People will choose a product or method to use, sometimes for good reasons, sometimes for no reason other than it makes them feel good, and it doesn't make much of difference because it's their project and doing it how they see fit is part of it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,157
So get plywood that isnt treated?

I would just get premium exterior grade plywood. if you can fine araucoply by Arauco, get it. it has more layers per sheet than others. simple exterior grade plywood will outlast the boat. your boat is 22 years old, intended to last only 15 then need major refurb. no mater what you build it with, most likely you will sell it in 5-10 years for another bigger boat

PT plywood that isnt kiln dry will take a few months to dry out enough to use it.
 

Jakesteel

Cadet
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
14
Just cut wood for transom fits in well enough. Going to drill holes through 2x4s and use all thread to secure it tightly. Cutting out the stringers around the transom to access it sucked. But its done. Wish i could post pics.
 

shaw520

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 27, 2009
Messages
634
Reduce the file size of your pictures in "paint" or another program,...then it will upload
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
When you peanut butter your transom in, expect to use a lot of PB. It should ooze out around the edges when you clamp it down. I was totally surprised by how much it took.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,739
Exterior grade plywood stamped as; ABX, BCX or CDX. The last, cdx being more filled with voids in assembly. The glues that laminate the woods are for exteriors. Treated plywood is typically nothing you want in a boat.
​Of course there is marine grade plywood at a premium but like said above they will all outlive us.
Ahh for some reason this didn't post last night. Old news. Here's a great link by the WOG;

1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!
eek.gif






 
Top