14' SC Rebuild

[frazoo]

Nice looking SC build, coming along nicely.

Thanks for the kind words, I couldn't get this done without the generous help of the people on this forum!

 

[frazoo]

No for filling the pitting I've always used Marine Tex, using a bondo spreader to skin the pitting over and then sand, prime/paint. For unwanted holes I use JB Water Weld in the 2 part stick epoxy. Counter sink drill on the inside with a bit larger than the hole to make a bevel. Take a wad of the JB press it firmly into the hole giving pressure on both sides. Once cured sand the JB down flush. It's tough stuff and would have to be beaten out with a hammer.

Thanks Waterman, placing an order later today.
Looks like a race against what appears to be an early winter fast approaching. May not get as much done this fall as I'd hoped, but gonna give her a good try!

 

[frazoo]

Floor looks good.. That's good advice watermann gave you on filling the holes..

Thanks Decker, and I'd be lost without the advice given here!

 

[frazoo]

The single center stringer is loose, and appears to have been re-riveted many times. I saw another thread where someone used parts of an old aluminum ladder to cross brace their stringer to the ribs. I found some aluminum 1/8" by 3/4" angle that I'm going to rivet in from stringer to rib to help stiffen the stringer. A good scrubbing and gluvit on the interior rivets and seams and I can start coating the plywood with 'poxy prior to installing flotation and getting the deck down.

 

[frazoo]

Looking at a couple pics from when I brought the boat home, I'm going to have to do something with the trailer before putting the boat back on it. Looks like the trailer is about a foot too short for the boat, bunks do not extent back to the transom and has created a little swayback in the hull bottom that could be detrimental to strength and getting up on plane and riding smooth (maybe).

 

[Watermann]

The single center stringer is loose, and appears to have been re-riveted many times. I saw another thread where someone used parts of an old aluminum ladder to cross brace their stringer to the ribs. I found some aluminum 1/8" by 3/4" angle that I'm going to rivet in from stringer to rib to help stiffen the stringer. A good scrubbing and gluvit on the interior rivets and seams and I can start coating the plywood with 'poxy prior to installing flotation and getting the deck down.

Replace the loose rivets on that center support. What I did was to use a 2 or 3" section of 1" angle as a hanger and 2" angle for the cross brace, rivet the hanger to the support and then rivet the cross brace to the hanger. This will add more support to the decking too. My boats had a double deck support and the SS had 4 so making a single have more support is a great idea.

 

[frazoo]

Thanks Waterman, will do!

 

[frazoo]

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Finally figured out how to resize pics, this was from when I first brought this home, complete with trees growing in it!

 

[frazoo]

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You would think something small like a cleat would be a snap to get off. Not so with these, rusted nut and bolt, could not get a tool, grinder or saw in place to cut the bolt. Finally got out a small drill and 1/4" bit and cut down into the heads until the head popped off and bolts dropped out. Easy-peasy after all. The cleats aren"t anything special, but I want to reuse whatever I can cause I'm cheap!

Over the years there must have been much hardware mounted along the gunwales, holes everywhere. Gotta figure out how to deal with all of them, any suggestions?

Found the 2" angle aluminum Watermann suggested, starting on that this afternoon.

 

[frazoo]

You would think something small like a cleat would be a snap to get off. Not so with these, rusted nut and bolt, could not get a tool, grinder or saw in place to cut the bolt. Finally got out a small drill and 1/4" bit and cut down into the heads until the head popped off and bolts dropped out. Easy-peasy after all. The cleats aren"t anything special, but I want to reuse whatever I can cause I'm cheap!

Over the years there must have been much hardware mounted along the gunwales, holes everywhere. Gotta figure out how to deal with all of them, any suggestions?

Found the 2" angle aluminum Watermann suggested, starting on that this afternoon.

After thinking about this, I guess I can treat the unwanted gunwale holes the same as was suggested for the unwanted transom holes. Don't mind me, just a senior moment there

 

[frazoo]

With regard to carpet, good thing or bad? I've never had it in a boat and am concerned about it holding moisture against the deck for long periods of time. But I'm thinking it could be a good thing on the above deck aluminum to help muffle noises. Any thoughts on it? Thanks

 

[frazoo]

Got transom and decks coated with 2 coats of 'poxy now. One more coat on flat surfaces and then keep coating the edges 'til sealed. Pics later.

 

[frazoo]

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[frazoo]

Well, that's weird

 

[frazoo]

Got the 2" aluminum angle support braces cut and riveted in this afternoon, and then found a crack in the stringer at the 3rd rib from the transom. Will use a piece of 2" angle, three feet long to mend he stringer from the first rib to the fourth. Pics doing wonky things today, will try to get better up later.

 

[frazoo]

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New Stringer braces

 

[frazoo]

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Stringer is cracked, will use a 4' piece of 2" angle to mend it.

 

[frazoo]

The more I read online the more I lean away from carpet, but still debating it on the gunwales and upper interior but not the deck.

Found a mid 90's short shaft Evinrude 40 hp, but man, old OB's around here are like gold! Thinking about making a deal with the guy for my 17' CC package.

Still working on stringer before a good scrubbing and flotation. Might add more cross bracing to support the 1/2" plywood deck also, but will make that decision once I set the decking in place and seeing how it feels. Waiting on latest order to arrive for transom install.

 

[frazoo]

Post #77 shows the cracked stringer ( maybe from the too-short trailer that let the transom hang over by a foot?), and five rivet holes. I'm thinking I can put the 2"angle on the other side of the stringer to stay away from that already hole-weakened area? Can I also use some kind of liquid weld (JB Weld) between the stringer and mend plate ?

 

[frazoo]

Driving cross state to look at a Johnson 20 hp tiller steer. If I can get 28-30 mph on this boat with it I'll use it. If not, my fall back plan is the 40 hp short shaft. The 20 would then go to my brother for his 12' vee bow aluminum boat ( if it can take it, not sure of that boats rating).