Trouble Code 0336 with new motor

[Matt9712]

Battery was charged yesterday but has had some cranking done on it so I'm sure it's drained a little. I am going to take them back out and charge tonight. But do you think battery charge would still give coil zero voltage?

 

[alldodge]

The neutral safety switch should keep it from cranking, but the man overboard switch kills power to the coil but it will crank

 

[alldodge]

Battery was charged yesterday but has had some cranking done on it so I'm sure it's drained a little. I am going to take them back out and charge tonight. But do you think battery charge would still give coil zero voltage?[/QUOTE]

No, it will not
Charge the bat and then let it sit for a couple hours and see if its at 12.7 or .6

 

[Matt9712]

If I put my boat in gear nothing will work and turn key nothing will work. If I take off the safety switch which I think is the man overboard which has a lanyard it does same thing. I just tried again to make sure

 

[alldodge]

I think is the man overboard which has a lanyard it does same thing. I just tried again to make sure

I'm thinking you may have just found your problem. Won't get to excited yet, but a man overboard safety switch should kill the motor, and the only way to do that is remove power to the coil (in most cases). I'm a Merc guy and not VP, but this is pretty simple stuff to do, so thinking they would do it about the same.

Go to the key switch and turn key to ON, then measure the purple wire and check for 12V. If its there, see if you have on the gauges (maybe just look at the gauges to see if they wake up). Here is Merc design, VP may do it after the gauges. This pic does not show the overboard switch, but it breaks the purple wire. SO if you don't have 12V at the gauges, bypass it

 

[Matt9712]

I went out and checked for voltage under dash. On the purple I had around 11.5 which is about a volt difference from what I have at ignition switch. While investigating I did find that if i moved a certain bundle of wires the alarm would go off and fuel pump would kick on. I narrowed it down to the wires off the breaker directly above the ignition switch. Tomorrow I will butt splice them and get rid of the plastic connection. That is a problem I don't believe it to be THE problem but getting closer. Where does the coikm grab power from? Does it go ton ignition module first or somewhere else? Thanks

 

[Matt9712]

The purple wires on dash had voltage, I jumped them out and it didn't make any difference in starting.
I also read the resistance of coil and at the primary side between the 3 pins and got 0.2,0.4,0.4 respectively and primary to secondary around 6.5K from each of the 3 pins on primary side. But with it not getting any voltage with key on I am not sure that is the problem either. Should the coil be getting voltage with the in the ON position or will it only see voltage with the key in the RUN position?
I have read a lot this morning about how the Tachometer wiring can cause firing issues. I cant get any tachometer deflection when I try to start boat not sure if that is also part of the problem. During my shake method under dash the wife noticed that the Tach was moving when I was shaking some of the bundles but it could all be part of the bad connection coming from the breaker directly above the ignition I found last night. I am going to take the quick connection plug out of the circuit and hard wire them then see if that makes any difference.

 

[alldodge]

Where does the choke grab power from?

The choke gets power from the purple wire, but Being fuel injected it won't have one.

I think your coil is good but here is how to test it. Its showing a 2.5L but coil is the same
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...00c152800a7cc9

Your coil should have 12V to it with the ignition ON (run).

Edit: it should have power and it does come via the main power relay

 

[Matt9712]

Ok so replaced the plastic connection now no matter how I move it, it never loses power. But I have power at fuse box on all fuses 12.5 V with the exception of key switch fuse which has 10.4V and Zero volts at coil and ignition module with key in ON position..... where else would power go between fuse box and coil? Does it hit any other sensors that could be open before coil?

 

[Fun Times]

The Volvo diagram below that I could find online might be hard to follow along unless you increase the zoom in a lot and the numbered description isn't there but it should help give some ideas of where the engine wiring connections go to.

If I see it correctly there are 2 purple wires...Well one of them is purple with red which eventually heads over to the starter more as a red wire through a splice....With Volvos, If your starter solenoid mounted to the starter is internally corroded, etc., it could cause issues with the ignition system too....Which could be why you're seeing low volts at the key fuse area...Or possibly corroded battery cables or a loose battery cable nut. Is everything clean or all rusty around the engine components ?

You could try disconnecting the tachometer signal wire (it may be gray in color)to see if it will start but doubtful as you seem to have a power loss somewhere along the line.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/oldnewenglandmarine/2011-06-11_191230_gxig.jpg

 

[Matt9712]

I pulled relay out of fuse box and bench tested it. It worked exactly as it should. I found that with key in ON position while fuel pump kicks on that relay energizes and coil as soon as fuel pump shuts off relay drops out and kills power to coil. So during cranking it's the same coil has power when key is released from run to ON coil de-energizes. I think that's why the few time it did fire and run it stalled right out. I feel like whatever is killing power is going to the culprit for the no start..... Anyone ever ran into this

 

[Matt9712]

I disconnected the gray wire from the tach and the boat seemed to want to fire better but wouldn't stay running and battery was getting sluggish from cranking earlier. Going to have to charge it up and try again later

 

[alldodge]

Ok so replaced the plastic connection now no matter how I move it, it never loses power. But I have power at fuse box on all fuses 12.5 V with the exception of key switch fuse which has 10.4V and Zero volts at coil and ignition module with key in ON position..... where else would power go between fuse box and coil? Does it hit any other sensors that could be open before coil?

Jump across the main power coming in to the key switch and take it to the fuse. This should give you a full 12V. Then see what's at the coil

 

[Matt9712]

I have 10V at the coil now but only while the fuel pump runs initially for the 2 seconds it runs when the key is initially turned on. It will also stay energized while I'm cranking but as soon as I release key it loses power. Not sure what would be taking power away...maybe a safety feature to protect motor ie: engine coolant temp sensor or something along that line if that's normal?

 

[alldodge]

Wish I could add more, but I'm at a loss right now

 

[Fun Times]

Try shaking, wiggling, tapping on the engine fuse box while the key is on. Volvo had a few bad fuse boxes out there....Goggle search Parts Bulletin VOLVOPENT.A Group Number Version P-37-2 2

What is the battery volts at the battery with the key on?
Bear this general info in mind too regarding the internal workings of the starter solenoid, http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/370957-volvo-penta-ignition-fuse-blowing.html

Do you have either a purple or red/purple wire connected at the starter solenoid terminal D like mentioned here, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ta-4-3gl-starter-issues?p=6632054#post6632054

Either maybe a fuse, relay, bad wiring or maybe because the alternator stops spinning is part of the reason you seem to be losing 12v.

If your engine side cannon plug connector is numbered, Try bypassing the helm wiring and see if the engine will start/give you power at the coil, etc as sown in the following video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUoXFIo2Ab8

 

[Matt9712]

So I shook everything on fuse box and looked at the article .... doesn't look like mine is one of the affected ones. So took voltage at the relay. 12V feed on purple wire stays constant with key in ON or during cranking. Ground side has 2.5V on it and 9.5V across which might be not enough for it to keep relay pulled in. During initial 2 seconds when key is moved to ON the ground goes to 0V and then goes back to 2.5V after. Checked continuity from wires back to PCM and they are all good. Not sure if it is an internal issue with PCM or something I'm overlooking.

 

[alldodge]

Starting to not keep up with what your testing. The relays which are controlled by the EGC should have 12V on both sides of the coil until the EGC applies a ground to one side of it. All relays which are controlled by the EGC will be the same type so they can be swapped with one another.

 

[Matt9712]

I was trying to figure out why the ignition coil was not getting power after the fuel pump de-energized. It will get and maintain power when I initially turn key to ON for roughly 2 seconds while I hear fuel pump running. As soon as fuel pump shuts off the coil loses power I have 0 V at that time. So I bench tested the relay to make sure it worked as designed and it did. Then I did continuity check of those wires to see if there was a break in wire. All wires were good. So then I check voltage to see if relay was losing power which cut power off to coil. The purples which feed the relay stay hot and never lose power. The ground shows zero volts when fuel pump running and shows 2.5 V when it stops. The ground appears to internal to PCM. With the 2.5V on ground the relay is only seeing 9.5V which I feel is not enough to keep it pulled in.So in a good system should coil always see 10-12V with key in ON position at all times? Because feel it should but hate to keep looking at this if it's working as it should.

 

[alldodge]

Found a source of the GI wiring but it shows the EST distributor and not the HVS. With that I don't see how it can be correct. It shows pin J2-32 with a Purple/White wire which feeds the coil and the injectors. Also has 2 relays, one main power and the other is fuel pump.