'95 Merc 502 dying on throttle up after idling for awhile

thunder550

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Sep 6, 2017
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I stuck a screwdriver in there, the ball moves easy. No resistance or sticky spots.

New pump is ordered, should be here towards the end of the week. Install next weekend and hope I didn't mess anything else up today :lol:
 

211libwtfo

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Jul 29, 2016
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I would actually run the boat without that gd anti siphon valve when I took mine out it looked fine but when I ran it the problem was cured.
 

alldodge

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I would actually run the boat without that gd anti siphon valve when I took mine out it looked fine but when I ran it the problem was cured.

Just a point incase others read the thread. Removing the valve is fine so long as there is never a leak in a fuel line, or something happens bad and its was found to be removed which may have caused an issue to get worst.

As for if it had a problem and it was sticking then removing it would solve the problem. Now if the issue was a weak pump or other restriction issue, then this would solve the problem for the short term, but probably not the long one
 

211libwtfo

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Just a point incase others read the thread. Removing the valve is fine so long as there is never a leak in a fuel line, or something happens bad and its was found to be removed which may have caused an issue to get worst.

As for if it had a problem and it was sticking then removing it would solve the problem. Now if the issue was a weak pump or other restriction issue, then this would solve the problem for the short term, but probably not the long one

I’m not saying don’t replace just test without.
 

Fun Times

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Though somewhat in range, Your fuel psi seems to be a bit to weak by showing to much of an variance range of 31 - 37... Usually the psi swing was more of an lower 3 - 5 psi swing and in some cases going a bit over the 37 range to more of an 38 or 39ish then dropping to the 34ish range when running/just idling with vacuum hose connected...Remove vacuum hose and it goes up 4ish pounds on average. A quick snap of the throttle the psi goes up then right back down once throttle is closed....All testing referenced in the books has you remove the vacuum hose first even for a key one, engine off testing....

With that mentioned, be prepared to eventually buy and install a new fuel regulator soon just to be more on the safe side especially since you're going through the whole fuel system and maybe running a different type of fuel being in AZ.

Also besure to "very" carefully clean the VST filter screen the best you can, Though it may not have looked bad, it wasn't perfect either looking at your photos both here on iboats and your other topic on the other site too.;)

With the heat you'll be running in AZ, the VST tank system is really susceptible to heavy vapor lock out there.....I'm in CA and have been through vapor lock a few times with these engine models.

While the low pressure electric fuel pump could work out okay with the VST system, this low pressure fuel pump kit was more meant to help feed fuel to the pump in the cool fuel system....So like suggested by AllDodge, may as well stay with a new mechanical fuel pump then recheck your fuel psi parameters so you know what they should be thereafter with each new component as needed.

With the VST type the system, the best way to avoid vapor lock was to redesign the return fuel line by way of returning the fuel to the fuel tank instead of the fuel filter base assembly that comes from factory...The return fuel was taken right from the VST tank to either the fuel tank or a bit easer to the fuel tank fill line with something like this, http://www.cpperformance.com/products/Fuel_Systems/fuel-return.htm
Though this next image if from a car/truck, the concept is the same as usually diesels use the return to something of this affect, http://photobucket.com/gallery/user...WwgUHVtcCBJbnN0YWxsL0RTQzAwODA3LmpwZw==/?ref=

Before restarting your engine, be sure to prefill the fuel filter and it's best to run an OEM (Quicksilver) fuel filter which is a white in color filter to help keep the fuel somewhat cooler too.

Hope everything all works out well for you in the end, good luck.:encouragement:
 

thunder550

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Sep 6, 2017
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Thanks for all the info! Very helpful.

What I found for AZ gas is the following:

https://www.afpm.org/content.aspx?id=1336
After opt-out of federal RFG in the summer of 1998, Phoenix area required summer max. 7.0 psi RVP gasoline, winter max. 9.0 psi RVP gasoline and CARB Phase 2 RFG or federal Phase I RFG. In the winter, Phoenix also required min. 10 vol% ethanol or min. 2.7 wt% oxygen content for ether blends.

When I had the VST pump apart I took the removable bottom off the screen and sprayed everything out really well with brake cleaner, then dried/blew it out with compressed air. When you say "very" carefully, what do you mean?

I have a new mechanical pump on order. If I replace that and still have problems I think I will say "screw it" and redo the whole system with the return to the tank like you described. I've done aftermarket fuel systems on cars before, so familiar with components and how they work. I didn't understand how the VST worked until I opened it up today, now I can see why vapor lock is an issue with the fuel basically doing laps around the top of the hot engine and back into a tank that has air space in it. Weird design.
 

Fun Times

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When you say "very" carefully, what do you mean?
I'm used to saying that as you don't want to damage that screen because the cost is extremely high should you have to buy a new one/kit from Merc....See item numbers 8 and/or 9 then look at the costs, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/s...31796/1614/160

But I forgot that there are other options to buy the screen else ware at much better prices, https://www.offshoremarineparts.com/85-1417-504.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Yam...-/201370428938

While not listed in the parts diagram, Should you find that you only need a new top tank O-ring then use Merc part number 25-803831 at $12.00, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/803831-o-ring
 
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