Neutral start switch?

Alaboat

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Started up boat yesterday after being in storage for the winter. Cranked right up and let in run a while on hose. As I usually do for reliability, I killed the engine and tried to restart but nothing. It was acting like I was attempting to start in gear even though shifter was in neutral position. When turning the key to start position, nothing happens but gauges do engage. Similar thing happened last season and all I would have to do is move shifter fore and aft several times and it would then start. My shift box has the button that you depress in the center of shift lever that disengages shift function so that you can actuate the throttle for warm-ups. This is a 1995 Chris Craft Concept with a 4.3 Vortec. Any thoughts on what to check for? do the neutral start switches go bad and how can they be tested?
 

kenny nunez

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First look at the wires on the ignition switch. Yellow/red is the color going to the control box and the same coming out. Be sure the wires are tight on the ignition switch. If the control box is a genuine Volvo unit most times the problem is not in the control box. Get a test light to check the circuit. There is a Micro switch in the control box but you will have to take it apart to replace it if that turns out to be the problem.
 

Alaboat

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Thanks for the reply. That's where I started first checking all the connections at ignition switch and tightening. Nothing changed. I had the control box apart last time I was having a similar issue and I believe I tested that little switch with an ohmmeter and it was good. Just seems weird that it started right up yesterday after being in storage all winter but now nothing.
 

alldodge

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You could bypass the neutral safety to see if its that. Could also be the start relay on the motor, not the one on the starter. Merc calls them a slave relay and they go out. Could also be the key switch, just replaced mine last week
 

Alaboat

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I have the service manual for my engine; I tried figure out where the start relay is and didn't see anything in cranking circuit diagrams that showed one . I think the key switch is fine since the gauge activate when switched on and to the start position.
 
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bruceb58

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The console shifters that came on those years of Volvos were holdovers from the OMC days. I had the same issues. I replaced the console shifter. Tried adjusting the position of the neutral safety switch a few times but would only help for a short while.
 

Alaboat

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The console shifters that came on those years of Volvos were holdovers from the OMC days. I had the same issues. I replaced the console shifter. Tried adjusting the position of the neutral safety switch a few times but would only help for a short while.

So did you just bend the metal to put a little more tension in one direction? I can see where that might give you a temporary fix. Aren't those switches still available for replacement rather than the whole shifter?
 

bruceb58

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Good luck finding them. I couldn't. I did a combo of bending and loosening the screws and re positioning.
 

Alaboat

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GREAT:grumpy:, thanks. Ill open the shift box up and see what it looks like and go from there. Not looking forward to swapping the whole shifter.
 

SD2600

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I had a similar problem, it ended up being my shift cable didn’t allow the nsf to set properly in the detent. I replaced the shift cable and fixed the problem
 

alldodge

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I have the service manual for my engine; I tried figure out where the start relay is and didn't see anything in cranking circuit diagrams that showed one . I think the key switch is fine since the gauge activate when switched on and to the start position.

I should know better to make an assumption with OMC/VP even with a 1995 model. Everyone else went to slave relays long before 1995. Oh well my bad again :facepalm:
 

bruceb58

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I should know better to make an assumption with OMC/VP even with a 1995 model. Everyone else went to slave relays long before 1995. Oh well my bad again :facepalm:
They do have start relays.
 

bruceb58

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GREAT:grumpy:, thanks. Ill open the shift box up and see what it looks like and go from there. Not looking forward to swapping the whole shifter.
Was best thing I ever did. The new Volvo shifter that I put in shifts like butter compared to the OMC/Volvo joint venture shifter. Of course I did change cables at the same time which will be required if going to a new shifter.
 

kenny nunez

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Make sure that the neutral switch is or is not the problem. If the neutral switch turns out to be the problem google “micro switch” and you should be able to get a replacement. The start relay may be one of the square type relays which Volvo has used, or it could be the miniature solenoid style.
 

Alaboat

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Pulled the shifter apart this afternoon and the neutral switch looks and tested fine with ohmmeter. Then moved to the ignition switch to check for voltage but got interesting results. Key in off position, I got 12V across different terminals but when switch turned to start position, I got 0V. Not sure of the proper test sequence for this switch but that didn't seem right. I didn't have a helper today but also noticed I can hear a faint buzzing sound when turning key to start with the hatch open. Without someone to help turn key while I listened, I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. BruceB, are you saying there is some sort of starter solenoid on the starboard exhaust riser?
 
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Alaboat

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That is correct!

I looked again in the OMC manual and found it in the diagram called an assist solenoid.Thanks for setting me straight. Is there some diagnostic to perform on this solenoid to see if its bad?
 

bruceb58

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I looked again in the OMC manual and found it in the diagram called an assist solenoid.Thanks for setting me straight. Is there some diagnostic to perform on this solenoid to see if its bad?
I would first remove the solenoid(if it is a socketed type) and just jumper the 12V connection to the lead going to the starter to see if that causes the starter to operate. If that works, then check the voltage on the terminal that comes from the ignition switch to see if you get 12V when the ignition switch is held to start. Only problem with that last measurement is there is no load so if you have a bad ignition switch you could get fooled.

Post a picture when you find it to show us what it looks like. Makes trouble shooting easier.

To me it sounds like it's your neutral safety switch. That is more likely the problem than the assist solenoid.
 
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