OMC Shift cable Adjusted...Now what?

[slitw]

Hello,
I have a 1986 SeaRay Saville 17ft with a 3.0L OMC. I purchased last fall and took 1 quick test ride. It shifted hard into neutral and would make a bang or cluck noise when it was just about on plane. So after a winters worth of research and studying I dove into the project this spring. I removed the outdrive, replaced the lower shift cable and bellows. The bell crank shift area was full of sand so I figured I had found the issue. I used a shift cable adjustment tool when installing the shift cable. The controls shifted quite easy and smooth in the garage. The one thing I did not do was check the tension of the shift. The lower cable moved quite easily. But the shift control is a tad harder to move than "one finger" easily like the info I have read suggests. Today I took a test ride and it shifted much easier but still is some resistance moving into neutral. The " clunk" now happens as soon as I throttle up from an idle.The shift control is a Quicksilver which I am thinking is for a Mercruiser. It looks to be original but I really don't know if it is. Are the adjustments different with this control? Does anyone have an opinion on this or any guidance on what to do next?
Thank you

 

[bruceb58]

That clunk is your dog clutch slipping and then reengaging. You might have a tear down in your future to replace them.

 

[slitw]

It shifts a little hard into neutral. Is it possible the ESA module is failing?

 

[Whateft]

It shifts a little hard into neutral. Is it possible the ESA module is failing?

That was going to be one suggestion. First, though, I'd check to see if the part that slows the engine to shift (on the shift bracket on engine - bran fart can't remember name) is engaging/workng properly. The Cobra gears have severe cut that makes them hard to get out of gear. Also make sure you got the correct cable (red) and that the adjustments are correct. Your clunk description sounds like the gears are not fully engaging until pressure is applied. It could be as mentioned that they are shot and a rebuild/new drive is in order, or that the cable is mis-adjusted. I would suspect the cable/cable adjustment. I'm assuming you found the Hastings site. Follow it to the letter, and yo'll be good. That was my bible for years!

 

[bruceb58]

It shifts a little hard into neutral. Is it possible the ESA module is failing?

The ESA is only used to shift out of gear. With a properly working cable, it will never engage going into gear.

Hopefully, the 2 special tools were used to make the cable adjustment although I think in this case the dog clutch gears are damaged.

 

[Lou C]

What you are describing (jumping out of gear) can be as Bruce said, due to the ledges on the fwd gear getting rounded off so it no longer stays engaged with the sliding dog clutch.

When you did the adjustment here are some points to consider:
did you measure the shift rod height on the lower unit, this is the most basic measurement because it ensures that the actual shift rod is moving equally in fwd and rev
did you measure the shift cable drag (should be less than 2.5 lbs) I think you said you didn't'
when adjusting the transom cable the tools enable you to get it right but there is the remote cable that comes from the remote control to adjust also. You have to make sure that this is giving you equal throw on either side of neutral in fwd and rev. If this is off, it does not matter if all the other adjustments are 100% right.

The reason why I say check the drag on your transom shift cable is you are saying it still shifts a bit hard into neutral. For it to go into neutral, the cable must not have excessive drag and the ESA system must be working. Meaning that when the load lever on the shift linkages senses load on the shift cable casing it clicks that switch causing the engine idle to drop from 600 down to 450 or so which will allow the clutch dogs to release. Your curb idle in gear should also be as low as you can get it with a smooth idle (500-600).