Rinker V170 Restoration Project

[kboiler]

I do know that the stringers have manufactured foam in them, not wood.

 

[tpenfield]

Since the tank is metal (aluminum I assume) you really need to remove it and inspect it carefully for corrosion pits. The tank was probably sitting in moisture for some time and that sort of thing can be the death of an aluminum tank.

For the stringers, if you drill a small (3/8") hole on the inside face of the stringer just above the hull surface, that should give you a sense of what is inside and if any water comes out. Do not drill more than what is needed to go through the fiberglass side of the stringer, avoid going into the hull itself. You can drill in several places along the stringer to get a sense of if there is water in some places, but not others.

If all is good, you can seal the stringer back up with an epoxy/fiberglass patch.

 

[kboiler]

Since the tank is metal (aluminum I assume) you really need to remove it and inspect it carefully for corrosion pits. The tank was probably sitting in moisture for some time and that sort of thing can be the death of an aluminum tank.

For the stringers, if you drill a small (3/8") hole on the inside face of the stringer just above the hull surface, that should give you a sense of what is inside and if any water comes out. Do not drill more than what is needed to go through the fiberglass side of the stringer, avoid going into the hull itself. You can drill in several places along the stringer to get a sense of if there is water in some places, but not others.

If all is good, you can seal the stringer back up with an epoxy/fiberglass patch.

WHY ARE YOU TRYING TO MAKE THIS HARDER FOR ME?! LOL.

Just kidding. Yes, I should probably do that. I'll probably need to get the gas out of it, as I think it is reasonably full. Thanks for the suggestions. If I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right. I'm not in any hurry to finish it.

 

[tpenfield]

yup . . . only harder in the near-term, The longer term view is much easier to do it once, by doing everything that is needed. :thumb:

 

[1lastweekend]

Just found your original post here. I used 120 grit paper and my DA (dual action) air powered sander to take the glue off of the exposed floor and sidewalls of my Rinker. I didnt have nearly the rot on my wood that I see you do, but for the parts you can salvage, the method I used worked well. I also used some mineral spirits to break down some of the higher thicker applications of the old carpet glue, then knocked off the remains with an air chisel. Wear a respirator if you use that method. I am pretty handy but didnt know much about fiberglassing, but learned a lot about it from Youtube and this forum. Look up tabbing, chopped strand and peanut butter LOL...

 

[kboiler]

I've mostly got all the carpet/glue off the walls and almost ready to lay the deck. I really need someone to just make this easy for me, and post a link of the fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth I need to use. I mean, I don't need you to buy it Just tell me exactly what to buy. There are SO many options. I need easy. I need affordable. And....GO!

 

[kcassells]

I would believe your foam stringers/bulkheads are saturated and need replaced. Have you cut any open to investigate?
Foam is not waterproof.Plus you haven't done a pressure test on the tank.? This is getting stupid.

 

[kboiler]

This is getting stupid.

Thanks for your help, bro. I'm working through those other things. This is obviously causing you some undue stress, so you can relieve yourself of my project. Have a great day.

 

[kcassells]

Love that reply of "relieve me." I do feel better now. Thanks for letting me pass that out. Whew!
Nah... not getting off that easy.
Just keep diggin into it, research and ask questions. You're getting there.

I'm working through those other things....as you say then alot more intelligent solutions can be answered by others. Just need more real diggin in to get that boat on the water safely. BRO.

 

[Woodonglass]

You really need to slow down and make a logical plan for the work needing done. Once the deck is put on there's no going back without tearing up the work you just did.
There is NO magic Materials list. I all depends on the sizes and area needing glassed Usually, If you know how to lay fiberglass, 1 gallon of resin will wet out 4 sq. yds of CSM and or 1708 fabric. That's an area 12' x 12'

 

[tpenfield]

Keep in mind that you are not the first person to ask advice about cutting corners or looking to minimize the scope on a restoration. Usually, those threads get the same cautionary advise.

I do recall a thread from a few years ago, where someone had done a partial restore to ‘save time, money, and effort’, only to have to do it again a few years later. Nothing was saved with that approach.

 

[ab59]

ya , after I put my new deck in I began to find plenty of things I should have and could have done to be smart about wiring and access to my below deck fuel tank.
Would have really liked my transducer wires under the deck as well and having an access door to my fuel tank so that I would not need to remove the middle section of the deck to get to it if I should need to repair or replace it in the future.
This is not even considering countersinking some areas for live wells and storage .

 

[kboiler]

Thanks for the feedback, gents. How do I get the gas tank out? I don't see anywhere that it is attached to the boat. What should I be looking for?

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks for the feedback, gents. How do I get the gas tank out? I don't see anywhere that it is attached to the boat. What should I be looking for?

Aluminum tanks are typically attached to the hull /stringers, either by flanges or by foam. In the pictures that you posted, there does not seem to be any flanges visible, nor foam along the sides of the tank. There could possibly be foam underneath the tank.

Take some good close looks, post some more pictures, if you can. If the tank is attached to the boat by foam, you will have to 'break' the bond that the foam has on the tank. Doing that depends on how much access you have to the tank. Be careful in any prying or lifting process to use boards to distribute the forces across the tank and the hull. The ends of the tank are the strongest and a point where you will have the most leverage. If you apply prying force to the tank & hull without distributing the load, you run the risk of puncturing the tank and the hull

 

[ab59]

don't know if you have an inspection camera with the little 2" screen and a flexible snake cable with light at the end but if you do they make a great tool for looking a difficult areas to get to. I bought a cheap one online and use it all the time for looking into engines , walls , whatever .

 

[kcassells]

C' mon...get back into the rehab. Lots a guys wanting to help you out. Hows the demo going?
KC

 

[Codywharwood]

How's the restoration going? I have a similar boat I am going to be starting soon. How did your core samples look from the stringers?