1998 Force 120 Carburetor Wanted (TC-139A)

sactodisco

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Jun 29, 2018
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I have a 1998 Party Hut which came with a 1998 Force 120. Last week on the lake huge loss of power and fuel pouring from the lower carb. Come to find out that the float mount on the lower carb had been damaged at some point in the past by either a tech or the PO of the boat. The mount has 2 "ears" and one was broken off completely. There were some additional pieces of brass strips, which presumably had been used as a MacGyver type repair, laying at the bottom of the bowl. Most likely the PO ran into the same issue I am having. It seems that the TC-138A and TC-139A used on the force motors for 1998 and 1999 were made of unobtanium. None of the suppliers have one in stock, a search of the internet and e-bay has yielded no results. I did purchase one off e-bay for a force 120 but it's a different TC part number for an earlier motor. Still waiting for it to show so I can see exactly what it is.

My question to you all is, does anyone have a lead on a outboard motor recycler which may have one on hand.

If I can't find a decent replacement I will be forced to try an get this one going with my own MacGyver repair or, and I hope not, pony up for a different motor because I can't find a replacement carb. AGHH!! This motor has been running great up to this point. I've only owned it for two seasons. Last year the starter crapped out and this year one of the trim relays took a dump. Neither of those things was particularly surprising for a 20 year old motor.

Any help y'all can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
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roscoe

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The broken tabs are on the bottom of the carb body itself, correct?



hmmm, Direct match would be from 98 or 99 models only.
 
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sactodisco

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Welcome to iboats.

We are kind of stretching the solicitation rules here, but obsolete parts are tough.

Try these 2 guys.


http://www.psep1.biz/pc_product_detail.asp?key=0980876C96654B32B6C2B74B40F826A3


https://www.m-and-d.com/TI-TC-139A.html

Thanks for the response. My google search turned up both of these guys. Neither could provide any help. I am a fan a used parts. I frequent the local pick and pull for many of my automotive needs. It doesn't seem that there is a similar market for outboard motors.
 

roscoe

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There are many small sources for used outboard parts, but many just sell on ebay as they strip the parts, and most don't have any real inventory system.

You are also looking for a carb that was used for only 2 model years, maybe a few thousand motors at best, and most of them are still in running condition.

perhaps look for a complete motor, with bad lower unit or blown powerhead. Use the carbs and keep the rest for future parts needs.
 

sactodisco

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The search continues. If anyone knows of a motor with troubles as described by roscoe I would appreciate knowing about it. I have searched craigslist and e-bay, spoken with all the the local shops and even corresponded with the Irish manufacturer of the original carb. I suppose the next step will be, if I can't fix mine, to see if a different carb can be retrofitted or, sourcing a new/new'ish motor. (I didn't pay for the whole boat what a new 4 stroke would cost.)

Outdated stuff... sheesh
 

sactodisco

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Hopefully we are staying on the correct side of the solicitation rules here. I'm really not trying to do anything but get my family back on the water.

During my quest I actually ordered from one of the suppliers mentioned above. I prior to ordering i chatted with them to ensure that they could in fact provide the part as everywhere else told me it was backordered. After multiple assurances that they could deliver I pried open my wallet only to get a phone call the following day informing me that their distributor had the part on back order...

If anyone has any suggestions on how to repair the broken ear of my carb, I still have the piece that was broken from it, I am more than willing to try.
 

blackd

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Sep 27, 2013
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Sactodisco, I would bet the early model TC-120 lower carburetors would be a direct replacement. Even though the model numbers change any changes are minor. There were a couple available on that ESales site. Comparing my 1997 lower to your 1998 it appears the difference is in the fuel inlet placement on the bowl. Just take your 1998 bowl and replace the older bowl so that the fuel line and locations match. The needle valve and main jets are the same.

I have a 1997 120HP but have early Chrysler reed blocs and valves on it,as the Mercury versions had a tendency to chip/break.

I used the Marine Engine com site to compare parts numbers.
 

sactodisco

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Jun 29, 2018
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Sactodisco, I would bet the early model TC-120 lower carburetors would be a direct replacement. Even though the model numbers change any changes are minor. There were a couple available on that ESales site. Comparing my 1997 lower to your 1998 it appears the difference is in the fuel inlet placement on the bowl. Just take your 1998 bowl and replace the older bowl so that the fuel line and locations match. The needle valve and main jets are the same.

I have a 1997 120HP but have early Chrysler reed blocs and valves on it,as the Mercury versions had a tendency to chip/break.

I used the Marine Engine com site to compare parts numbers.

Thanks for the digital manual source. That looks like a great resource. My reed block is only a couple years old but I will keep your suggestion in mind. Thanks!
 

sactodisco

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Jun 29, 2018
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Google outboard salvage, used outboard parts.

Thank you JerryJerry05. I was searching on outboard dismantle and outboard parts. When I searched outboard salvage I found a very nice gentleman out of Minnesota who had what I was looking for, for half the price I was being quoted for an earlier model, and shipped in 2 days and even included a beer coozy!! If anyone needs this business in the future I can highly recommend them.
 

sactodisco

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As an update. I was able to make a repair to my carb body. I fabricated a new float support leg out of aluminum and attached it with an adhesive called MarineTex which is supposed to be fuel safe. It was rock hard after a couple days. I tried to tig weld the piece back on but due to the size of the broken part and the amount of oil left in the metal it was impossible. Someone out there can probably weld that but I'm not that guy. I also found a direct replacement from an online dealer of used parts out of Minnesota, whom I had a fantastic business transaction with and would recommend to anyone.

I haven't run the replacement carb but the repaired one is currently working fine and the replacement is safely stored on board as a backup.

I noticed that the manual calls for 8" zip ties to secure the fuel lines as opposed to hose clamps. Does anyone know the reason for this? Is it just a corrosion thing, or a vibration thing, perhaps possible over tightening?
 
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jerryjerry05

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The zip ties are way cheaper.
They also are made special, they have a curve built in to them and seal real well.
 
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