1970's Lund - Quick Rehab.

edgepa

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Even after the Zinc Chromate? I thought that was the first step with bare Aluminium, then the primer then the paint....
 

oldrem

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Even after the Zinc Chromate? I thought that was the first step with bare Aluminium, then the primer then the paint....

I've never used Zinc Chromate, so should wait for others to chime in. My previous aluminum was done with SE primer followed by oil based primer then top coat which is how I'm doing my current one. I'll bow out to others on this.
 

Watermann

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One or the other ZC or SE, you don't need both as they function the same as a bare AL base coat. I don't care for the Rusto AL primer, it's latex based so I guess you could shoot SE over the ZC but I use regular oil base primer after the base coat.
 

edgepa

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Thanks for the input oldrem & Watermann -- I will look for an oil based primer tomorrow at the town hardware store.
 

Watermann

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I use the chemical bond method of painting, SE primer, 1 hour later regular primer, 1 hour later first coat of paint, 2 hours later second coat of paint. This way nothing is cured and in one sticky day the paint is done and it turns into a very tough well bonded finish. I also use catalyst hardener in my paint and shoot all the coats with an HVLP gun.
 

edgepa

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I picked up oil based primer and I have everything prepped and ready to paint. I will be using roller & brush (roll and tip method). Is it possible to still use the chemical bond method and the corresponding timeline?
 

Watermann

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Should work fine doing the roll but adding some time between might be better, what are you using for reducer matters too with how fast it gasses out and the times between can change with temp and humidity. It's not really an exacting science due to all the variables.
 

edgepa

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Aghhhh... Reducer? I thought I read up on this some, but how little I know keeps surprising me! I will see if I can get some of that in town today, but I am starting to push up against my timeline. If I can't find any, I may have to proceed without the reducer.

Thanks though for the advice -- I will post pics of the painting once I start.
 

Watermann

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Hey just check the paint can instructions for the recommended reducer for your method of painting. :encouragement:
 

edgepa

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Thanks Watermann. I also re-read Woodonglass tractor paint tips. Again, I am amazed at how much I missed or didn't retain when I was reading his instructions prior to starting.

The quick dry zinc chromate didn't have thinning instructions and it was thick stuff...

Zinc Chromate.jpg

I called the manufacturer's tech support for thinning advice, but their guy was out that day. I decided to use it straight out of the can and lay as thin as possible.

Zinc Chromate 2.jpg

Seemed to go down okay (I am saving these pics on my harddrive as landscape rotated but they are reverting to the original when I post :confused: )

Next came the two coats of primer

Primer.jpg

then the first top coat (with hardener and acetone)...

1st top coat 2.jpg

It was too late for a second coat. I will add that today, but we had a 25 degree temp drop overnight. Low 60's all day. How long should the 2nd coat dry before putting back into the water? Is 24 hours sufficient?
 

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Watermann

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Thanks Watermann.
It was too late for a second coat. I will add that today, but we had a 25 degree temp drop overnight. Low 60's all day. How long should the 2nd coat dry before putting back into the water? Is 24 hours sufficient?

Your welcome. You can't put the boat in the water until the paint is cured or it will blister and that depends on temps. Once the reducer gasses out and the paint becomes hard is about as close as I could guess. It could take a few days or a week and below freezing temps will slow that process immensely.

It looks like the rolling worked with the chemical bond method and didn't just make a mess, you should be fine adding the second coat today. Looking good :thumb:

fetch
 

edgepa

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Well the boat is back in the water...

Back in the water.jpg

It looks good, but certainly there is room for improvement. There are areas of "orange peel" that I think are from the primer coats. I need to work on my technique a bit more before I paint any other boat projects - although there is more work to do on this boat next summer. Over the winter, the crack will be patched by the local guy. There are a couple of leaky rivets I hope he can take care of as well. I will work on the plywood seats so they are ready to install once I return to the cabin. Also, I will order replica Lund stickers for the sides. The interior still needs to be painted so that will be on the list for next summer.

Thanks Watermann for the advice!
 

Watermann

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Hey you're welcome! Just know that boats are made to be viewed from a distance :lol:

My first try at painting a boat I had to sand it all down and start over again but I went to using an HVLP spray gun after that and the results are way better for me.
 

edgepa

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Well the ice is starting melt at the cabin so summer must be coming soon. I received the replica stickers in the mail today...

Lund stickers.jpg

And I have been looking at LVLP Spray Guns.
 

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