ACX VS Marine Plywood

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Look to clarify things you mentioned eeepppoooxxxyyy in line 13. As if you may go that way with eeeepoxxyy. Getit, got it, geez Louise. We're just countering that approach. :)
Moving along....

Amazing how different people read text differently... I never countered or promoted thinning epoxeeeeeeeeee.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Tank1949, The experts here on iBoats have had this discussion for many years and their general conclusion that the thinning of ANY resin, Poly or Epoxy is not a good idea. Especially Epoxy, but...Poly as well. Poly CAN be thinned with Styrene but it, in itself, is a very non-user friendly chemical and must be used with extreme caution. When thinning is needed, (i.e. very thick poly resin, some MFG's formulas are thicker than others.) Acetone can be used but Styrene is the better of the two. I can certainly assure you and every other iBoats member that Thinning any resin with 200% Acetone is NEVER recommended. 10% would be the maximum recommended by our PRO Members who are "in the business" and work with the MFG's of all these resins.. As I stated previously warming the resin prior to adding the catalyst is the preferred method to lower it's viscosity and thus allowing it to penetrate better. Bottom Line...It's the encapsulation that's most important and not so much the penetration into the wood. The purpose of this forum is to inform the members of the best and most tried and true methods for repairing their boats. The numerous and varied opinions is what makes this the best Restoration Forum on the Internet. No one is inferring that one way is the ONLY way, but...There IS more than one way to Skin a Cat, and experience IS the best Teacher!!! After re-reading your previous post I now understand that you were explicitly referencing Poly and NOT Epoxy but again, the consensus opinion applies to both. As you say, the most important thing from ALL of this is...All wood should have an ample pre-coat of whatever resin is used.:nod::thumb:
 
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tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Like instructions from a mfg. ;)
Lookin good sir. How's the work going on the boat?

Slowly taking off hardware (transom assemblies, OD) in 106+ heat. I had to weld extra OD mount in order to work on ODs. I had one and need a second one. Damn it is HOT!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,739
This year it's the heat, the rain then the humidity. Get it while you can. Going out to mine and sand some decks pcs. down.
Cold beer to help out. :)
Post some progress pics.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Ok, I found ondarvr's post on thinning Poly. This man has forgotten more about Resin than most of us will ever know. He's THE goto guy for all the North American Manufacturers of Resin. Testifies in Catastrophic Failure cases all the time.
Here's his explanation...
(This is ONLY for future reference by future readers of this post. I am NOT attempting to PILE ON about this subject. Just providing information)


https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...1#post10265391
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Tank1949, The experts here on iBoats have had this discussion for many years and their general conclusion that the thinning of ANY resin, Poly or Epoxy is not a good idea. Especially Epoxy, but...Poly as well. Poly CAN be thinned with Styrene but it, in itself, is a very non-user friendly chemical and must be used with extreme caution. When thinning is needed, (i.e. very thick poly resin, some MFG's formulas are thicker than others.) Acetone can be used but Styrene is the better of the two. I can certainly assure you and every other iBoats member that Thinning any resin with 200% Acetone is NEVER recommended. 10% would be the maximum recommended by our PRO Members who are "in the business" and work with the MFG's of all these resins.. As I stated previously warming the resin prior to adding the catalyst is the preferred method to lower it's viscosity and thus allowing it to penetrate better. Bottom Line...It's the encapsulation that's most important and not so much the penetration into the wood. The purpose of this forum is to inform the members of the best and most tried and true methods for repairing their boats. The numerous and varied opinions is what makes this the best Restoration Forum on the Internet. No one is inferring that one way is the ONLY way, but...There IS more than one way to Skin a Cat, and experience IS the best Teacher!!! After re-reading your previous post I now understand that you were explicitly referencing Poly and NOT Epoxy but again, the consensus opinion applies to both. As you say, the most important thing from ALL of this is...All wood should have an ample pre-coat of whatever resin is used.:nod::thumb:

Local glass shop, Bowling Fiberglass is where I learned to thin Poly. Elton Bowling swears by it to soak into wood. He told me if the mix goes on with a "shin" to it, I need to thin more and multiple applications to really soak into wood. He uses styrene. But, he said Acetone is OK. He also has had poor experiences with epoxy. I haven't. It is more expensive but I have also learned from experience that thickened poly over time and moisture exposure will cause it to become brittle and lose bonding strength. I dug too much of it out of a Proline's transom that I replaced a few years back. It came out in chunks. One water droplet finding a stress crack and freezing will cause the crack to "grow" over time. My Proline was full of cracks and rot. I just couldn't see them! THX!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,739
Yup...Ondarvar is the seat of knowledge regarding these matters. Tank do what you want with the thining but get off the subject. It's your boat do what you want. :joyous:
Move on, nobody here is going to agree with you on this subject. Drop it like it's hot.

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