Two boats equal double trouble

Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Messages
7
Hi all,

My story seems to be quite familiar to this site... I’m just a man that bought a boat to find that it was full of problems. Sound familiar? My hope is that I can give a good overview of my mistakes and get some good advice while on my journey. I bought a 1989 chaparral in July of 2018. I knew it had problems but wasn’t notified that it had a cracked block. Was told it had a fuel problem. The price was right for the condition of all the interior seats. Got it home after blowing a tire and having to pay $500 for a tire guy to come out and help. Thought my insurance would cover my new purchase. Wrong since boats don’t have to be insured, I wasn’t grandfathered into my existing policies. Bring new tires when you pick up a boat. At worst you don’t use them they become good spare tires.

I got home and hooked up the muffs. After a few attempts to start she finally turned over. Ran as if it wasn’t getting any fuel. Giving it throttle seemed to help. I decided to check the mechanical pump, but first let’s look at that dipstick again... pure grey milkshake. Dun dun dun... ominous music playing in the background. What did I just buy. I started pulling things off the motor taring into it. To find out the previous owner had JB welded the block right under the intake manifold. For the longest time I thought it was oil just stuck but no it’s JB weld. I could see using that for a water jacket, but using it on the inside of the block seems rude to not tell the next owner. I have reached my picture limit, so I’ll send the picture of the block. Now I have purchased an automotive block to replace the engine. It was from a 1995 Blazer. Original owner wanted $200. I tried a compression test and couldn't get a single reading on my pressure gauge. I told him I didn’t want it. He said how about $40 so I took the engine. Both heads are garbage. The ethanol gas and it sitting out caused all the exhaust seats to be so thin. ($300 to add guides from the machine shop). Scraped those heads and found a pair of older 1992 pre Vortec heads that were in good shape. The machinist is checking them out and doing a valve job.

Now the block. I found out it has been bored to 0.06 in 2007. With my little amount of experience the walls of the cylinder seem to be okay no major signs of scratching. I’m going to take it to the machinist and ask his opinion. This is where I currently am in the rebuild. More details to come.

Now you are asking why is the title about two boats. Well I bought a second boat 1990 bayliner 21’. It is in such amazing condition for the interior. I bought this knowing it had a cracked block as well. It seemed to be only cracked at the water jacket. So I JB welded the block after cleaning and preping the crack. It held wonderfully the day I took it to the lake. 4 hours of boating around (it was an extremely fun day). Bad news though... milkshake oil. Now I’m two boats in with two bad motors. Do you Think it means double trouble or that I might as well be doing two if I’m going to do one. I also picked up another 4.3 L 1996 running but had cylinder with low compression (hope it was just a bad head gasket caused from an overheat)

Encourgment would be helpful, but advice is always the best. One additional thought my first block with the 0.06 bore seems to have brass core plugs the two on the back of the engine might be steel. Is there an easy way to tell.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
.... I knew it had problems but wasn’t notified that it had a cracked block. Was told it had a fuel problem.

Surely this would be grounds to return the boat to the owner and demand a full refund...

... but first let’s look at that dipstick again... pure grey milkshake. Dun dun dun... ominous music playing in the background. What did I just buy. I started pulling things off the motor taring into it. To find out the previous owner had JB welded the block right under the intake manifold.

And here you have the proof that he deceived you...

....Now the block. I found out it has been bored to 0.060" in 2007.

40 thou is the maximum a marine block should be bored.

.... I also picked up another 4.3 L 1996 running but had cylinder with low compression (hope it was just a bad head gasket caused from an overheat)

Low compression, more likely worn bores. A blown head gasket would show no compression... If it did have an overheat, the rings have likely lost their temper too... That's a full strip...

Encourgment would be helpful, but advice is always the best.

Ok, I'm working on the encouragement side... Unfortunately, I think you have a lot of work ahead of you...

One additional thought my first block with the 0.06 bore seems to have brass core plugs the two on the back of the engine might be steel. Is there an easy way to tell.

Magnet?

Good luck,

Chris.....
 
Last edited:

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,392
You seem to be good at buying your way into problems. Are you looking for projects or do you want to go boating? Why the second boat, knowing it had problems?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,010
I would have returned boat #1 to the prior owner

I wouldnt have purchased boat #2 simply because its a bayliner.

as for 4.3's I would find a running low-mileage post 1996 motor (they were in S-10's, vans, and 1500's) strip it down to long block and build up as a marine motor. while at it, I would have the rocker studs converted to thread-in

who am I kidding.... I would build a new 377 stroker because it costs almost the same amount as rebuilding a V6
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,010
BTW, nice AD truck in your profile pic. I owned a '48 and a '53. Even sell GM Metric IFS kits for them
 

harleyman1975

Ensign
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
959
I can't help but feel that your digging a trench and someone is filling it in behind you. I would pick the nicer of the two and make sure it is a good solid hull and then rebuild an engine for that one and as modern as you can. A few hundred now will save you years of regret later.
 
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Messages
7
Hi all,

achris - thanks for all the advice it is much appreciated. Is the heat associated with a bore at 60 the problem for a boat? Yeah, its a facebook marketplace buy. Sales are kind of final. It was a really good price and I could definitely sell it for what I've got in it. I'll tear into the second motor and let you know if it's a complete rebuild.

I don't mind buying these project boats especially with this kind of forum behind me for support. I also have two more 4.3L engines from a 1994 astro van that runs great but the interior and exterior of the van is garbage so my dad was using it as a mobile storage shed for his tools.

The reason for the second boat with problems is because of the condition it is in (except for mechanical part). The interior is immaculate and comfortable. the outboard looks like it just came off the factory. The poor guy selling it has had it for 15 years and always serviced by a marine store in town. I told him that he should have them replace the motor because it was an obvious screwup with winterizing the block. He didn't want the battle so I got a project boat at a project boat price. So the Chap has been put on the backburner. It has soft spots in the floor and is overall a bigger project. One good thing for the chap is that all the seats and leather are in good condition. You are right I am good at buying boats... not. I'm good at buying projects. I just finished rebuilding a 2006 Jeep commander V8 which is my hauler (pick included).

Surprising enough the pre-vortec heads fit the vortec block and the intake manifold matches the heads.

Scott, My dad gave me his old pickup (I'm going to restore it and let him drive it until he can't anymore) Its a 1951 chevy it has a 235 that seized up. I have one running 1965 235 engine that needs a tuneup and dropped in. Also I am replacing the axles for safety reasons. If you improve safety you do not get dinged in competitions for replacing with newly designed parts (disk brakes).

uswebdev - right on brother thanks for the encouragement.

I included the JB weld job on the inside of the engine.
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
That's a late model block, it would be a shame to put non-vortec heads on it.

On that, the blocks are the same, vortec/non-vortec... so, yeah the heads will fit (no surprise :)) It's just the heads and intake that make the difference, and that difference is about 20hp... Cheap improvement for 20 ponies.

60 thou is a problem because of wall thickness, not heat...

Chris............
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Hi all,



Surprising enough the pre-vortec heads fit the vortec block and the intake manifold matches the heads.

Yes, block is the same. Nope, Vortec intake will not fit pre-Vortec heads. Different number of bolts, different angle. Believe me, you will be changing more than heads if you change.
 
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Messages
7
Rick, I’m sorry I didn’t know you were under the impression I had a vortec manifold. I was going to use the pre Vortec manifold from the boat. Essentially only use the block from ththe Vortec engine.
 

dlogvine

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
839
Get a chevy engine block from a running engine, the one you bought with .060 over bored is junk, I did not even know they sell the pistons for such bore - standard oversize pistons are either 0.010, or 0.020 or largest bore 0.030. This could cause low compression and most likely oil getting into the ignition chamber with all consequences. Looks like your original engine from 89 boat should be a pre-vortec engine if i got right on the pic it has a balanced shaft. Get a similar engine and use the marine parts to rebuild it. You might have to get a master rebuild kit with the marine camshaft (automotive is not the same). From the automotive engine you can use most of the stuff but the camshaft, oil pan and oil pickup (marine is larger and for better oil flow), oil dipstick and dipstick pipe. Use this block and rebuild it with marine parts and use all the accessories from the marine block.
By the way JB weld wont hold, will start leaking either immediately or once the oil get hot. This block is not worth repairing.
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
Not a fan of junkyard/used engine swaps. If I'm going through all the trouble of swapping engines, i'm not going to risk putting junk back in the bilge. Clean reman'ed 4.3's longblocks can be found for $1200 to around $2000, with a warranty!
 
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