As far as the dedicated wire. I just disconnected and labeled the resistor wire in case some time in the future somebody wanted it. And then ran the dedicated wire from the same point over to the coil.
Ok so it sounds like it would be worth a few extra bucks to get the ignitor II
part of the reason I am interested in the pertronix is that I think I fried my coil and as long as I'm spending money on a new coil I ight as well get the flame thrower and the ignitor.
You guys know the part numbers, I have 91146a for the ignitor II and 45011 for flame thrower II coil
For those who may not get the reference, IKEA is notorious for some of the worst installation instructions on the planet.
You're better off just staring at the parts and figuring out how they go. But most people end up calling the 800 number and getting help putting things together.
For IKEA, I agree with Chris, just throw the instructions away. But I'm a little more cautious with other products.
I wasn't saying anything about IKEA, I was saying that had you read the installation instructions on your Petronix kit, it says to run an 'unresisted' wire to the module, and that most people just throw away installation instructions, and owners handbooks, which I get REALLY annoyed about!
So let's try and keep this thread on the OPs original question....
I don't remember the exact coil number but I got whatever FlameThrower Pertronix recommended for my Ignitor III.
It's probably the same one as matches the Ignitor II. This was 12 years ago and I remember there was a chart. Take a look on their site. They probably still have it.
Well they ask for a number on the distributor, that I wont have, until I get up to the cabin in almost 2 weeks. Just to look up anything. Almost positive its the delco distributor
I did the Ignitor II and Flamethrower II on my 120 about 11 years ago. Having the internally ballisted coil makes installation a little less complicated. I was very happy with it. My dad put an Ignitor in his 66 Mustang around 25 years ago. My sister still has the car and it runs great.
Good to hear, that earlier post by Scott I think it was, go me a little worried.
I've been running with a jumper wire, full 12 volt from battery to the coil for years. Never knew about the external resister coil. So I have always had this problem with the engine missing like it was losing spark or something. I think I finally figured out what the problem is. It must be heating up he coil too much and it starts to lose spark and eventually it kills and sometimes leaves us stranded. I just about threw in the towel on it last weekend. Then I got on the forum and started reading about the resister wire and the coils on these 470's. I think I finally got it. Man I have been fighting this thing for 25 years. Talk about love hate situation.
I ran an igniter in my Opel. it failed in about a year. died on I94 in downtown traffic in Milwaukee in the middle lane. ran an igniter in the 3.0 OMC and that lasted about 6 months - needed a tow 5 miles back to the ramp.
went back to points and never looked back.
YMMV
regarding a 12 volt jumper wire on points....yeah that will kill the points and the coil in short order.
You don't want to do that with a points setup. You probably boiled the oil in that little coil. I'll bet that sucker got red hot.
You'll love the Pertronix after that experience. The only people who had trouble with Pertronix are the ones who either had bad installations or they had an Ignitor I and left the key on and burned out the module. The Ignitor II and III protect against the key on situation.
If I ever acquired a points ignition engine again, it's convert it even before I started it the first time... I'd probably do what I did for the last 3 points systems I had, build my own CDI... So many reasons to ditch points, can't think of a single one to keep them. (And no, points are not more reliable that electronics)
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