2001 Rampage
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2018
- Messages
- 6
Hello! I have read some of your posts and you seem extremely knowledgable and they were helpful. I'm learning as I go. My boat suddenly died while about 3/4 throttle (also after hitting a hard wave...not sure if it's coincidence). I don't have spark. I've replaced the cap and rotor (needed badly), the ign sensor in the distributor, and the coil. I am going down your troubleshooting guide. I have a question...would a faulty/bad tachometer affect the module or keep it from promoting spark? I verified the gray wire going into the module and it's designated as the tach on the a wiring diagram I have. Also...if I disconnect the tach wire from the coil, I have 12 volts at coil with key on and 12 volts coming out of module (white/red, to the ign sensor inside the distributor)...when I connect the tach wire to the coil, it shows about 9 volts at the coil (+) and the same coming from the module..is this normal? If I leave the key on and the gray wire connected to the coil, the coil gets really hot. Sorry if that's confusing.
Also- starting at the beginning of the troubleshooting diagram: checking the tach/ tach wire to be sure it's not grounded. So, I disconnected my gray tach wire from my coil, I disconnected the plug in harness from my module that the gray wire uses to go into the module, and I disconnected the gray wire from my tachometer in the dash. I then tested both ends of the gray wire (the coil end and the tach end) by placing my positive/Red lead from my voltmeter on a 12 volt source (I used the red wire plugged into the ignition switch) and placed my black lead from my voltmeter to the dangling gray wire that was once connected to my tachometer...it showed a completed circuit, 12 Volts. I did this from the coil end as well, same thing. If all those are disconnected, I shouldn't be able to complete the circuit, correct? So, does this mean my tach wire is grounding somewhere between the engine and the dash?
Something interesting also...In the 5th bubble of the troubleshooting guide, I tried to check for spark at the coil by rapidly striking the wht/grn lead from the module against ground...I couldn't get my spark tester to show that the coil was firing. But, because I was curious, I re-connected/swiped the tach wire to the coil, and the spark tester came on pretty bright.
Keep in mind again that I replaced my ign. sensor, coil, cap and rotor. I guess, in truthfulness, I'm looking for something to fix besides the expensive module. I don't want to replace the module and it be something simple like the tachometer, a grounded wire, or some other sensor. Can a faulty ignition switch cause this? Or one of the sensor, like the oil pressure sensor? I don't believe it has a knock sensor (if they are attached to the cap, there is not one). Also, I eliminated the "Run/Off" switch under my throttle by bypassing it.
Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.
Also- starting at the beginning of the troubleshooting diagram: checking the tach/ tach wire to be sure it's not grounded. So, I disconnected my gray tach wire from my coil, I disconnected the plug in harness from my module that the gray wire uses to go into the module, and I disconnected the gray wire from my tachometer in the dash. I then tested both ends of the gray wire (the coil end and the tach end) by placing my positive/Red lead from my voltmeter on a 12 volt source (I used the red wire plugged into the ignition switch) and placed my black lead from my voltmeter to the dangling gray wire that was once connected to my tachometer...it showed a completed circuit, 12 Volts. I did this from the coil end as well, same thing. If all those are disconnected, I shouldn't be able to complete the circuit, correct? So, does this mean my tach wire is grounding somewhere between the engine and the dash?
Something interesting also...In the 5th bubble of the troubleshooting guide, I tried to check for spark at the coil by rapidly striking the wht/grn lead from the module against ground...I couldn't get my spark tester to show that the coil was firing. But, because I was curious, I re-connected/swiped the tach wire to the coil, and the spark tester came on pretty bright.
Keep in mind again that I replaced my ign. sensor, coil, cap and rotor. I guess, in truthfulness, I'm looking for something to fix besides the expensive module. I don't want to replace the module and it be something simple like the tachometer, a grounded wire, or some other sensor. Can a faulty ignition switch cause this? Or one of the sensor, like the oil pressure sensor? I don't believe it has a knock sensor (if they are attached to the cap, there is not one). Also, I eliminated the "Run/Off" switch under my throttle by bypassing it.
Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.