1958 Evinrude Lightwin project

[BurtonZ28]

Hello everyone,

I’m new to the forum and outboard ownership. I recently bought a ‘58 Lightwin for a canoe I own. The story was it was owned by an elderly couple, the husband passed and the motor was given to a friend of theirs who sold it to me. It hadnt been ran in some time. I had the seller fire it up and it would run for a minute or two then stall and not want to run until it was cool. That said I know it needs a tune up. I’ve ordered two jc6 champion spark plugs and I’m looking at getting a new water pump online. I was wondering as far as the carburetor goes would an aftermarket carb that fits part number 0114808 be compatible for my Lightwin? It seems to be the only newer carburetor that I can find online for the 3hp rating.

In in any case I am looking forward to learning a lot with this motor!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Check the spark with the spark plugs removed.

Remove, clean and rebuild the carburetor with a new kit... do not replace the carburetor!

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************

 

[racerone]

There really is nothing that can go wrong with that carburetor that say it has to be thrown away.------Unless it had water in it for a long time.-----Do a complete evaluation of the motor first before spending any $$------Lower unit / ignition / compression / fuel tank and filter etc, etc.

 

[lindy46]

Yes, you don't need a new carburetor, just a kit. Part number is 439071, available right here at iBoats. You also need a new water pump impeller, part number 434424, again, available right here. Remove the starter (4 long bolts) and then remove the inspection port cover on top of the flywheel. Look inside at the coils - if they are cracked and falling apart, they need replacing. You can also clean and set the points through the port. Use a point file and then use business card stock dipped in acetone to clean the points. I just cut a business card in strips for this purpose. Points can be adjusted to .020" by turning the small eccentric bolt on the point-set. Turn it counter-clockwise to open the points, clockwise to close them.

 

[BurtonZ28]

Wow this is all great information. Yes I’ll order the impeller. I was looking at the entire water pump kit. When would you need to order the entire kit vs just the impeller?

 

[BurtonZ28]

And the carb kit, again thank you for the heads up. It seems to have a hard time coming down to a nice smooth idle as well.

 

[F_R]

If the coils haven't already been replaced, they are cracked and no good. That will cause the grief you are experiencing.

 

[BurtonZ28]

I will look at the coils by the weekend hopefully. Anyone know the part number for possible future reference?

 

[Crosbyman]

lots of good info on the web
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OB carburetor_repairs.html
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Johnson_troubleshooting.htm
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm
http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.c...ohnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Tune-Up Procedure.htm

don't junk a god motor !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be
https://maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Co...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

etc... etc... etc..

 

[F_R]

I will look at the coils by the weekend hopefully. Anyone know the part number for possible future reference?

OEM coils are 584477. Sierra aftermarket coils are 18-5181. CDI aftermarket coils are 183-4477. Do yourself a big favor and get the OEM. Sierra has been having problems with theirs, don't know if it is resolved yet. I have no experience with CDI so can't comment on those.

 

[Paulywog0667]

Outboard motors at least back to the 60s have temperature protection. Everything can be brand new and it would shut off without the impeller pushing water to cool it.

 

[racerone]

There is no temperature protection on a 1958 model 3 HP.-----If water pump fails the motor will keep running till it comes to a " dynamic halt "

 

[Paulywog0667]

There is no temperature protection on a 1958 model 3 HP.-----If water pump fails the motor will keep running till it comes to a " dynamic halt "

That would make it easier to spend $10.00 on an impeller.

 

[BurtonZ28]

With the weather getting colder here in Michigan do you guys wait til spring to install the impeller? I can rebuild the carb, check coils and fog the engine in the meantime.

 

[racerone]

Do a complete evaluation of the motor before spending any coins.-------Be a shame to buy new coils only to find that crankshaft spline is near worn out !!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

There is no temperature protection on a 1958 model 3 HP.-----If water pump fails the motor will keep running till it comes to a " dynamic halt "

The temperature protection is that the pistons seize to the cylinder walls effectively shutting the engine down before it has a chance to melt into a metal blob.