No spark 73 Johnson 115 driving me nutz

[racerone]

Yellow wires have to do with charging the battery and have nothing to do with making the spark. !-------So what are the ohm values on black / white sensor coil wires ???----Looking for just 2 numbers here.

 

[maybe368]

The 2 black/white wires going to the PP are both OL. That is from wire to grnd. I hope this is correct,thanks...Mark

 

[maybe368]

Sorry, the open lines should read infinite ohms, my bad, but they are open line...Mark

 

[racerone]

Good luck sorting this motor out.----Perhaps find a factory manual to guide you.

 

[maybe368]

I have an original factory service manual. It is severely lacking in numbers. Like I said before, the tests from the FSM all showed that the rectifier, stator and timing base are good. I take that to mean that the results make no sense? Remember that it was running fine, I shut it down, came back, no spark. I guess that it's a stumper. Out of curiosity, what numbers did you expect?...Mark

 

[racerone]

The factory manual has the numbers for you.----The CDI guide has the numbers for you.------Something is wrong here.----Bring the motor over in the spring I can fix it.

 

[maybe368]

This is from the chart posted above:



Stator ohms 450-600
Stator dva n/a
Charge, wire to wire at least 150
Power wire to wire n/a
Trigger ohms brn to brn yellow
Trigger dva n/a
Trigger wire to wire black whites to white blacks
Ignition coils ohms prmary .2-1.0 secondary 200-400

So I measured the triggers wrong, I have b/w #2 to w/b #4 at 46.2 ohms and w/b #1 to b/w #3at 57.7 ohms, how does this sound?,,,Mark

 

[maybe368]

Ok, you are right, the coil readings should be 8.5 plus or minus 1 too much resistance, correct? Also, the infinite reading to ground is ok. So I found my problem, it is the timer base...Mark I checked the charge coil and I get 615 ohms, it should be 910 plus or minus 75, not enough resistance, it is bad too right? All in all, It is below spec on voltage output at 106 vac, should be at least 150, too much resistance in the sensor coil readings and not enough in the charge coil, so about everything under the flywheel is bad...Mark

 

[Joe Reeves]

I see no mention of you removing the black/yellow wire (kill circuit), as suggested by "Racerone" in Post #3, from either the power-pack or the ignition switch to test whether or not there is a short between the "M" terminals of the ignition switch.

If you bypassed that test by disconnecting the large RED electrical plug... there could still be a short in the kill circuit of the engine's wiring harness. Disconnecting the wire at the power-pack would eliminate that possibility.

Perhaps I overlooked it?

 

[maybe368]

The ignition switch, as well as everything forward of the big red connector is eliminated by my remote switch. I have 2 extra control boxes if that turns out to be a problem later, but it has been eliminated. What the original fsm does not say, is that if it is out of spec, it is bad. So, am I correct that if it's out spec, it's bad? Thanks...Mark Also, we considered that maybe the remote starter could be bad, we determined that it wasn't going to ground...

 

[Tim Frank]

The ignition switch, as well as everything forward of the big red connector is eliminated by my remote switch..... Also, we considered that maybe the remote starter could be bad, we determined that it wasn't going to ground...

Was up late last night and not 100% yet, so may be missing something, but remote starter switch would tell you that the problem is forward of the "big red plug" if the motor started. The fact that it does not simply says that you still have a problem somewhere. There could still be a problem forward of that plug....that switch is just a convenience at this point.

My money would still be on a wire/wire connection deterioration issue. Forty+ years under the hood with the high temp cycles are hell on wire.
Do a good look-and-touch inspection of all ignition wiring under the hood. Do not be surprised if some insulation falls off and there is corrosion in the wire body.
The external harness wiring is probably fine....never had the same extremes.

 

[maybe368]

Here's a pic

 

[maybe368]

One of the selling points for this particular remote starter is that it does everything that the control box does, so that when you use it, it does eliminate everything forward of the red connector. I cannot find any evidence of a chaffed wire a corroded wire or any other evidence of bad wiring. I have 2 batteries and a cole hersey switch and all of the cables are double aught welding cable. This boat has spent its entire life in Phoenix where things just don't corrode, except the last couple of years, where it lives in my boat house.What I have decided to do is take all of the components affected from my spare motor, buy a timer base and a stator and the choke solenoid (which is bad also) and git-r -done. I really appreciate all of the help...Mark

 

[maybe368]

Well I get to put this to bed, but I still don't know what the problem was. I came back down here and got right to it, I put in a new power pack and still had no spark. I then put my meter from #1, black/yellow and #6 black (grnd) and with the switch on, I should not have continuity, but I did, 34k ohms. That was killing the spark. I disconnected #6, messed around, cleaned contacts (again), replaced the wire on #6, and, lo and behold, no ground with switch on and spark on all 4. I have no idea what was wrong or what fixed it, but I don't really care, it has spark. When I quit dancing, I'll try to reason it out. I appreciate all of the help. If anyone has any theories feel free, I would like to know...Mark

 

[Joe Reeves]

The powerpack ground wire had a faulty connection... you replaced/cleaned the wire and completed the circuit.

 

[durban]

Start of with the stator and do this simple test red wire from the meter on one of the brown wires black wire from meter touch it anywhere on the motorif you get any reading on the meter on the ohms scale there is a fault with the stator then change the red wire over to the other brown wire and check if it gives you a reading the stator is cooked and its grounding.problems with the winding inside . Another easy test is get an inline spark tester the one with the 240v DC globe in it connect it between your 2 brown wires take all the plugs out and turn the motor over with the key switch if the globe lites up when the motor is turning over your stator is good .

 

[durban]

Another simple test get an inline spark tester connect it between the 2 brown wires and turn the motor over with a good battery if the globe lights up the stator is good .

 

[durban]

From left to right on your powerpack 1st row is 1 to 6 2nd row [ bottom ] 7 to 12 disconnect no 7 for the time being this is the kill wire to stop the motor it goes to earth no 1 comes from ignition switch.

 

[durban]

From left to right on your powerpack 1st row is 1 to 6 2nd row [ bottom ] 7 to 12 disconnect no 7 for the time being this is the kill wire to stop the motor it goes to earth no 1 comes from ignition switch.

sorry this is for 70hp