Engine oil

rickasbury

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Last year I bought this oil feeling like I had been talked into buying over mercuiser oil- ended up not using it and picking up Merc stuff- it was not cheap and getting ready for another oil change, any reason I should not? IMG_20190128_081427.jpg
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Last year I bought this oil feeling like I had been talked into buying over mercuiser oil- ended up not using it and picking up Merc stuff- it was not cheap and getting ready for another oil change, any reason I should not?

As long as it has an API classification of SH or better, no...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Amsoil is good stuff

if you dont want to use it, you can send it to me.....
 

harringtondav

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I second both the above. I swear by syn lubes. I use them in my crankcase and O/D. Mobil 1 makes a 15W-40 that is less expensive than the Amsoil, and has the necessary API ratings. Just be sure to check your owner's engine manual oil viscosity vs. temp chart.
 

rickasbury

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yea, that's what I was worried about...all the technical stuff.....I have a 2006 350 MPI motor, does that narrow it down for the experts?
 

TyeeMan

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That oil has an SJ rating, along with all the CI-4+/CI-4-etc. Amsoil has had that oil for a lot of years.

I've used that oil for a number of years in my boats and other peoples boats, it's good stuff. Amsoil now also offers 10W--30 and 10W-40 Marine oil both of which are very good as well.

It will work just fine for your boat.
 

rickasbury

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Thanks...they do a lot of service work there and in business for a few years now...just the parts guy seemed like he did not have a lot of knowledge....
 

HT32BSX115

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Thanks...they do a lot of service work there and in business for a few years now...just the parts guy seemed like he did not have a lot of knowledge....

This question comes up all the time and it usually devolves into a..... "Here's what I use and I've never had a problem" type answer.

The NMMA does specify (FC-W and FC-W cat) oil for marine engines, and most or all of the branded oils suggested by all the 4-stroke marine engine manufacturers are rated FC-W (or FC-W cat for catalytic exhaust engines)

NMMA also certifies 2-stroke oils. (Note btw, that there is NO NMMA certification for gear lubricant)

The NMMA 4-stroke oil specs can be viewed here If you have a PDF reader: ---> http://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w

There's a fairly long list of "Registered" oils (also note that Am$oil, Mobil-1, Valvoline, Shell Rotella etc etc.... are NOT on the current list)

But you might also notice that there's a very long list of people here and elsewhere that do not, and have never used registered FC-W oil in any of their 4-stroke outboard, inboard and/or I/O engines and have never had an oil related "problem)

The fact of the matter is you can use literally ANY 4-stroke oil (correct SAE wt and current API designation) and your engine will will probably out last you! DO NOT however use API SA (non-detergent oil) in any engine

The important thing to remember is that you need to change it (and the filter) on a regular basis (at least as often as the engine manufacturer recommends....100hrs, yearly, etc) and/or change it at the end of boating "season"

Cheers,

Rick
 

harringtondav

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The NMMA does specify (FC-W and FC-W cat) oil for marine engines, and most or all of the branded oils suggested by all the 4-stroke marine engine manufacturers are rated FC-W (or FC-W cat for catalytic exhaust engines)

I have a lot of respect for NMMA and SAE J1171 standards. These reduce the risk of boaters dieing in catastrophic accidents. But a safety spec for 4 stroke engine oil requiring certification? This reminds me of my and other companies that lined up behind the conjured up ISO 9001 certification for quality management systems. Most companies took the bait to get the cert on their logo. Expensive annual re-certifications from consultants.

I never saw our quality improve from 9001, but we sure learned how to whip up documentation. I'm thinking this NMMA std is the same "create the need, fill the need" ruse.
 

HT32BSX115

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I'm thinking this NMMA std is the same "create the need, fill the need" ruse.
Maybe. I am not thinking that FC-W was created to fulfill a "safety" requirement.

A lot of their testing was aimed at corrosion resistance in a marine(read salt) environment....like a boat sitting in a salt/brackish marina it's entire life.

For most of us that boat in fresh water or flush thoroughly and park the boat in the garage or in the back yard that level of supposed corrosion prevention is probably overkill.

My last boat with a 1966 Mercruiser inline 6 cyl, went 39 years (until I sold it) never having the head off. It ran just fine all those years getting oil changes once a year. I never even fogged it and it sat from SEP to June each of those 39 years and got a different (whatever was cheapest) brand of straight-wt SAE30 every time.

There's a bunch of people here and on other forums sites that have a similar story. I am thinking that some of us might be spending a bit too much effort worrying about what oil to use.... Just do a search for oil threads. It's agonizing. There's even a site for oil threads (even has it's own internet acronym.....BITOG....I'm sure you've heard of it "Bob is the .....")

Just saying....

Cheers,

Rick
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Messages
27,468
My take....
It's oil. Probably the cheapest part of boating. It shirts me to tears when I see people trying to 'cheap out' on this vital fluid. If you can't afford an extra $5/litre for the best oil you can buy, sell the boat, because you certainly can't afford to run and maintain it. What's even funnier/sadder is the guy who's just spent THOUSANDS on building up a really nice engine, heads, pistons, cam, etc, then asks what's the cheapest oil to buy. :facepalm: Same goes for impellers, buy the best, or sell the damn boat!

Chris........
 

HT32BSX115

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an extra $5/litre for the best oil you can buy,
I won't disagree with you Chris on OEM and/or after market parts.

But the final price that consumers pay at the register for motor oils that have already been licensed/certified by the ACEA, JASO, API, and SAE are not always directly related to "quality" and are more related to marketing and advertising costs and demand..

Back in the 90's, Consumer Reports contracted a lab to test many different oils (incl a few syns) in a fleet of taxicabs and found little or no difference between the oils (with certain exceptions) when the test engines were torn down.

Also, the additives used in all the oils around the world are made by very few companies (compared to number of oil "manufacturers") Lubrizol, Shell Chemical, & Castrol to name a few + a few others that are relatively "nameless" to consumers.

Knowing that one will never go "wrong" using the (FC-W) oil recommended by the Manufacturers such as Mercury, Volvo, OMC, BRP, Nissan, Tohatsu, and others makes it pretty easy to forget about oil and worry more about other more important things.

I don't think anyone will go wrong using a "Brand" name & well known, certified (correct grade) oil regardless of what it costs at the register or whos name is on the bottle...... In many cases with multiple Brand names, the oil in the bottle is exactly the same with the same type additives

Oil refiners have for many years sold their 'mix' to many different marketers. The retail marketers are usually the ones that make all the claims.


Although I think this thread might appear to be diverging from the original "question" The original question is really a good one for many new users here.

Last year I bought this oil feeling like I had been talked into buying over mercuiser oil- ended up not using it and picking up Merc stuff- it was not cheap and getting ready for another oil change, any reason I should not?


The bottom line still applies and your answer as short as it was, was, and is, as always, the correct one! :thumb:

As long as it has an API classification of SH or better, no...
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
I won't disagree with you Chris on OEM and/or after market parts.

But the final price that consumers pay at the register for motor oils that have already been licensed/certified by the ACEA, JASO, API, and SAE are not always directly related to "quality" and are more related to marketing and advertising costs and demand..

Back in the 90's, Consumer Reports contracted a lab to test many different oils (incl a few syns) in a fleet of taxicabs and found little or no difference between the oils (with certain exceptions) when the test engines were torn down.

Also, the additives used in all the oils around the world are made by very few companies (compared to number of oil "manufacturers") Lubrizol, Shell Chemical, & Castrol to name a few + a few others that are relatively "nameless" to consumers.

Knowing that one will never go "wrong" using the (FC-W) oil recommended by the Manufacturers such as Mercury, Volvo, OMC, BRP, Nissan, Tohatsu, and others makes it pretty easy to forget about oil and worry more about other more important things.

I don't think anyone will go wrong using a "Brand" name & well known, certified (correct grade) oil regardless of what it costs at the register or whos name is on the bottle...... In many cases with multiple Brand names, the oil in the bottle is exactly the same with the same type additives

Oil refiners have for many years sold their 'mix' to many different marketers. The retail marketers are usually the ones that make all the claims.


Although I think this thread might appear to be diverging from the original "question" The original question is really a good one for many new users here.




The bottom line still applies and your answer as short as it was, was, and is, as always, the correct one! :thumb:

:thumb:...
 

rickasbury

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
800
Will use this oil then! Thanks for all the input.
Poor guys to the north of us with this weather- many deaths from it and should take this kind of cold serious.
 

H20Rat

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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
I second both the above. I swear by syn lubes. I use them in my crankcase and O/D. Mobil 1 makes a 15W-40 that is less expensive than the Amsoil, and has the necessary API ratings.


About the only reason Mobil is called a synthetic is a lawsuit between M1 and Castrol. M1 used to be a real Group IV synthetic, Castrol released a synthetic Group III, and M1 sued, saying it wasn't a real synthetic. M1 lost, and very shortly after, most manufacturers (including M1) moved their synthetic oil from Group IV to Group III (cheaper). Amsoil is one of the better ones that actually is a real synthetic group IV. (most Amsoil lines at least) The other affordable real group IV synthetics are Royal Purple and Redline.

In any case, not a fan of Mobil1, especially their 5w-30. That stuff will shear down to almost water in some engines, it performs worse than some very cheap oils.
 

rickasbury

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
800
Maybe I should just stick with my Merc oil and call it a day....even though I spent a lot of money on this oil, a motor is much more expensive! Which is what I did last oil change....and why I still have this.
 

Bondo

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Maybe I should just stick with my Merc oil and call it a day....even though I spent a lot of money on this oil, a motor is much more expensive! Which is what I did last oil change....and why I still have this.

Ayuh,..... It's Yer money,..... You can throw it away, anyway you want too,.....
 

jakwi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 7, 2019
Messages
184
I don't know, I have to disagree with some of the sentiment being expressed here. Respectfully, of course. The thing is, a lot of guys are looking to cut corners so that they can afford to have a boat. Myself included. I fully understand what your saying about cheaping out, but sometimes the answer is it's the same parts for half the price.

We all know that vendors price things at what the market will bear. Generally the market for car parts will bear less than the market for boat parts. Does that mean that all car parts will work as well as boat parts, no, of course not, but some of them might. They can't just sell the same exact stuff at a marine store and charge more, so they would have to differentiate somehow. That is done by branding and certifications. To be clear I'm not saying that these certifications mean nothing, but I am saying that we can't trust the vendors to communicate honestly because it's not in their best interest.

It's sort of the point of the forum to exchange ideas, and hear what has worked for others. Could that lead someone down a bad path, maybe, but we are all responsible to research, and then make the best decision possible. My research consists largely of forums in addition to more technical sources.

In the end I need to get the very best value for my money. Otherwise I would just have to "sell the damn boat" and not have the opportunity to make those memories with my family. I've opted to keep my boat, make the best choices I can within my budget, and enjoy the time with my kids while they are still at home.

As far as the oil, It's a good brand, and it does indicate it's for marine use. If the weights are correct for your motor, and environmental considerations, I think you are good to go. If you are the kind of guy who keeps ahead of the curve then use it for a while and send a sample to Blackstone. At the very worst if testing comes back that it is degrading more quickly than it should change it out early. Or just use it in something else.

Oils are probably the worst thing to try to research, there is so much pseudo science out there, it's hard to make an educated decision. It's almost like trying to research which is the best brand of gasoline.

Anyway I do appreciate all of the help, and information I receive on this forum in particular. It is the consistent, knowledgeable posters that make it so valuable.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Messages
27,468
...In the end I need to get the very best value for my money. ...

As I know your post was aimed at me, I'll just say this statement ^^^ is exactly what I'm talking about.

The example I will use is the manifolds you're looking at... If the best one will last twice as long as the cheaper ones, but cost 50% more, which one is the best "value for money"? The answer is the ones that cost the least over time, NOT the ones that cost the least to buy.... (they are actually the 'most expensive'.)

As for buying alternate engine parts. Yes, totally. I keep a running list (in excel) of alternative parts for various engines. As long as I know the part/s are exactly the same, then yes, I buy 'non-genuine'... But I'm also selective enough to know when you shouldn't buy anything but genuine.

Things like impellers are a very good example of genuine vs non-genuine. Many people say the Sierra impellers come out of the same factory as the Merc genuine impeller... They do, the same production line as it turns out... So, why would I NEVER buy a Sierra impeller? (or bellows) Because after a production run, the Merc QC/QA guys go in and select which impellers Merc will buy from the manufacturer. They actually reject a fairly high percentage. What do you think the manufacturer does with the rejects? Throw them in the bin? Nope, they sell them to Sierra... (and GLM, etc)

Other things, like the trim pump. That's not a part specifically made for Merc, it's a unit Merc have adapted for their own use. So when I need trim pump parts, or a complete unit, I head to Parker-Oildyne... Same as the IAC valve, it's (in my case) a unit used by a Ford Windstar. Cooling hoses, fan belts, spark plugs, even bearings inside the drive, all 'not Merc specific'...

I guess the thing to know is what you can buy 'alternative' and what you should only ever buy genuine....

Hope this clears things up...
 
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