Four Winns Horizon RS bilge fiberglass help

[Buickgsman]

Hi all, I've posted here before when I started my project years ago. Well now it's time to finish my boat project, or at least get a bit farther along. I have to repair some fiberglass that was de-laminating and curling in which was allowing water to go where we don't want it to go. I've cleaned off most of the loose stuff and need to re-glass everything, hopefully better than the factory ever did. I get the impression they didn't care if the boat lasted 20 years. Anyway, based on my pics can you all make recommendations as to what type of fiberglass (mat and cloth) and resins I would need? If you don't mind, I'm not versed in fiberglass so be specific if you can. I have a friend that has some experience making tractor hoods out of glass so he will be assisting me. He's also a lot smaller so i'll probably shove him in there and get him to do some of the work. on the sides up in the fuel tank area I was going to blend the vertical surface to the hull with peanut butter(saw it on a Frisco Boater resto) then put several layers of mat and cloth to strengthen it. What else do I need to do? The two pictures attached should show the engine mount and the other is where the hull and vertical rib meet.

 

[tpenfield]

Those photos are not all that helpful. Do you have a few that you can post from a greater distance to add some perspective?

. . . and yes, not the best glassing work from the Four Winns factory.

 

[Buickgsman]

Some more pics of the area in question. I hope they are sufficient. I've cleaned away all of the loose material. I have to grind edges to give good adhesion but that should be it for prep. Any thoughts on materials are appreciated.

 

[harringtondav]

The good news is this appears to be the top coat coming off. Either gel coat or bilge paint. When I read de lamination I thought rot. May be do a test drill on those front engine mount shelves to verify solid ply below.

If solid those engine mount areas look like they could a layer of glass and epoxy at the cracks. Then re-coat with gel coat, rolled or sprayed on, or good Interlux bilge paint. Surface prep is key. a good wipe down with Xylol or acetone just before application.

 

[Buickgsman]

I've tried to make notes on the attached pictures with how I want to do the repair. Does this sound reasonable? What types of fiberglass should I use and where is the best place to purchase it? How much should I get of each type? Mat and cloth serve different purposes correct? and what can you tell me about the "peanut butter mixture?

 

[Ciera2450]

1708 biaxial will work great. Provides the matte/cloth in one and is easy to work with.

 

[Buickgsman]

1708 biaxial will work great. Provides the matte/cloth in one and is easy to work with.

Thanks, will that go around the 90 degree corners fairly well? Would 2 layers of that provide enough strength to get this buttoned back up or would I want to go 3 layer or more?

ANy experience with the "peanut butter" material?

 

[kcassells]

Have you tested the motor mounts for rot? Looks suspect.

 

[Ciera2450]

Peanut butter is a combination of resin, chopped fibers, and fumed silica. Can add other things too depending on what the need is. Search the forum and there are tons of recipes for it. Basically you mix it for what you want/need it to do.

The 1708 will go around corners well if they are rounded off. You will have to “work” with it a bit

 

[Buickgsman]

Have you tested the motor mounts for rot? Looks suspect.

I did poke around in there. I was able to impact the lag bolts holding the mount bracket down with my dewalt impact and it tightened the lags up and didn't strip anything out and I can see down in there after having ground some of the delaminated / dried out fiberglass away and all looks good. I was going to just load them up with any extra fiberglass and call them good.

 

[JASinIL2006]

You'd really need to drill some test holes near the base of the mounts before you call them good. Drill with a 1/4" bit about 1" from the bottom, parallel to the hull. If the shavings are light-colored and dry, you're good to go. Fill the holes with peanut butter (thickened resin) and then proceed to glassing.

 

[Buickgsman]

I'll do that tomorrow, thanks!

 

[Buickgsman]

You'd really need to drill some test holes near the base of the mounts before you call them good. Drill with a 1/4" bit about 1" from the bottom, parallel to the hull. If the shavings are light-colored and dry, you're good to go. Fill the holes with peanut butter (thickened resin) and then proceed to glassing.

Ok, did some drilling. Hit a bunch of foam that low, but just above that we hit plywood. All was dry in the plywood area, but some were dark colored. The wood seems sound. Below in the foam i did pull some minor moisture out. My goal here is to make the boat solid and useable. At some point it was wet for sure. Its been inside drying for a long time and I didn't pay a fortune for it. I've rebuilt the engine on a low budget and I'm just looking to seal it up so it doesn't take on any more water. Like a buddy of mine said, its my first boat, Its going to take some hits and it doesn't need a full restoration like the amazing work many of you guys here have done. That will probably be the next boat i buy.

So that being said, if I go with the 1708 biaxial and make my own thickened resin as a filler, what is my best course of action for prepping the old fiberglass? Do I need to grind to a certain grit or can I just wipe with acetone to get enough bite with the new material? I do want my repair to last and not come apart. Thanks!

 

[dezmond]

Just a side note. Since you will be using 1708, you should use polyester resin. This was you can use Gelcoat with good success

 

[dezmond]

You said you hit plywood and foam when you teat drilled? The mounts? Can you post pics of where you drilled?