1962 Evinrude 75hp Carb Float Level Setting

[kuts]

Whew, glad we got that settled. Never mind the mark on the throttle cam, it is the mark on the pulley that needs to align with the safety switch plunger. Also align the flywheel mark. Don't make it complicated.

Thank you F_R. You cleared it up and I guess I was making it to complicated. With the flywheel lined up correct the mark on my pulley is one tooth to the right of the switch plunger. Exactly 1 tooth. This helps explain a lot of things that I have been doing the wrong way.

My manual seems to make more problems than it solves and in many ways it is because I am not understanding it correctly and some of it is for other models. It is Evinrude Service Manual Forth Addition and in Section 2 Ignition Data Bulletin 2-27 Timing Instructions, Step.3 "with the motor setting level on a stand set the speed control at SLOW." Then all the adjustments are made for timing. That part made me think that the mark on the throttle cam was significant to the timing. Apparently it makes no difference where the speed control is when setting the timing.

Anyway I have made several adjustments the wrong way as a result of that. I will come back and post results so that anyone following can see the final. I will start with not doing anything to my float because I don;t want to do too many adjustments at the same time again. I will start with the timing, then the points again, then the sync to the carb and try that. I will also test for fuel line/gasket leaks and clean the carb out real good.

I really appreciate your advise and knowledge and patience with me.

 

[kuts]

No---- that would be an optional belt driven generator on the early V-4 like yours.----Yours obviously does not have that generator.--------Evinrude and Johnson are the same except for paint in most years.

Thank you racerone. You guys knew way more about my problem than me. My main problem is I don't know what I am doing and I don't understand my manual and my manual is not all that good. Plus I got old river buddies giving me advise and they also don't know what they are doing.

The manual you all showed me is much better and I will start using it now.

My Uncle gave me the boat and he is still alive 90 years old and I really hope I can get it going and take him for ride....he said he will go if I get it running.

My dad passed in 2012 and gave me his boat too which included a spare motor. So I have 3 outborad motors to work on and get running. This Evinrude was my first choice since my Uncle is still alive. Thanks for your advise and knowledge and mostly for understanding my real problem better than me.

 

[kuts]

Whew, glad we got that settled. Never mind the mark on the throttle cam, it is the mark on the pulley that needs to align with the safety switch plunger. Also align the flywheel mark. Don't make it complicated.

I started it up. The cylinder to crankcase drain hose is cracked and spraying fuel out. That is the only hose that I did not replace back in 2015. I think that is a bad sign. Why would that hose have pressure in it and why would it be full of fuel?

Since my last post I made the following adjustment:

I took the plugs out to help make timing easier. Number One plug was a little loose and had some fuel leaking out around the threads.

Before removing the timing belt I checked the timing mark with the flywheel on the correct marks and the the magneto pulley mark was one tooth to the right of the safety switch plunger.

I removed the timing belt and checked the points and found they were gaped at 0.020" but the light was going out 1/4" prior to the mark rotating clock wise. I then set the break point of the points with the light going out on clockwise rotation when at the correct marks on each point. I then measured the gap with feeler gauge and that puts the gap at 0.016" The only way to make the gap 0.020" puts the light going out 1/4" prior to the marks rotating clockwise.

I put the timing mark with the flywheel on the correct marks and the the magneto pulley mark I set just slight to the left of the center of the safety switch plunger about 1/16" to the left of the center of the plunger.

I removed the low speed jets on the carb and found 1 fairly large particle of black rubber in each jet cavity. I removed the drain plugs of the carb and blasted out with carb cleaner and compressed air and got quite a bit of black particles out of the carb. I repeated with carb cleaner and compressed air until no particles were coming out.

I left the float level alone as it was already adjusted just like the diagram holding upside down float parallel with the body edge of the carb.

I adjusted the linkage syc between the carb and the magneto but it was very minor adjustment to get the carb fully open.

I have new fuel tanks but I cleaned it out anyway. Mixed the fuel 48:1. I know the manual says 24:1 but reading many post there are a lot of people using 50:1 in the motor with no problems and I wanted to reduce oil in my water tank (trash can).

I adjusted the low jets to 1.5 turns open.

The prime squeezed up and nice and tight and held prime.

No fuel line leaks. The fuel lines are new in 2015 ethanol resistant.

The motor started right up and seemed to be firing on all cylinders and it did not lean sneeze. I ran a little rough ran OK but ran at high idle and did not die. I let it warm up at high idle and it started cycling rpm up and down almost close to stalling. I adjusted low speed jets in 1/4 turn and almost stalled. That was when I saw fuel spraying out of the cylinder to crankcase drain hose. I double checked to the rest of the fuel lines and fuel pump housing etc to and found no fuel leaks on any of the fuel supply train or carb.

The drain hose is cracked on top of the hose just before it connects to the nipple on the front of the motor. The location of the hose is on the Starboard? right side looking from the back and runs right along the bottom of the mounting plate that connects the motor to the lower unit.

Should I just replace that hose? I am wondering if I have a cracked piston or ring and not worth messing with it?

 

[kuts]

<https://www.*****************/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1962&hp=75&model=V4AL-14&manufacture=Johnson&section=Powerhead+Group>


I found a diagram over at m a r i n e e n g i n e . c o m without spaces of the powerhead but for some reason cannot post the link on this forum. If you can go to that web site and look for 1962 Evinrude 75hp powerhead diagram you will see the diagram showing the hose on my motor that fuel is spraying out of. It is part 13 in the drawing and connects to a nipple part 59 that installs just to the right of part 44 on one end and on the other end connects to another nipple that is shown in the drawing just above part 40.

I wonder if when I had backfire (remember it back fired on the first test) that the reed valves might be damaged could have something to do with the this drain hose now under pressure and spraying fuel out of the cracked hose part 13? Is there test for that or would just start pulling it apart for inspection?

 

[F_R]

That drain hose is (guess what) a drain hose. It drains off excess fuel that settles down to the bottom of the crankcase chambers. It then dumps it into the lake. Yep, that's correct, it dumps it. That's the way things were done 60 years ago. Live with it or buy a new 4-stroke.

 

[kuts]

That drain hose is (guess what) a drain hose. It drains off excess fuel that settles down to the bottom of the crankcase chambers. It then dumps it into the lake. Yep, that's correct, it dumps it. That's the way things were done 60 years ago. Live with it or buy a new 4-stroke.

It is a relief to read what you just said. Thank you.

F_R I spent all night and this morning reading up on this. I could not find literature specific to the Starflite but the other models 40 and 50 have plenty of literature describing the leaf type check valve and drain hose that drained excess fuel to the lake and did it on the downstroke? under pressure. Looking at the carb diagram pages you guys showed me I can see part 56 and 57 is a small Reed Valve and Reed Valve Stop on the bottom of the intake and looking at my Evinrude Service Manual Forth Edition shows the same parts but they call it the Bleeder Reed Valve and Stop.

So according to what your telling me and what I am reading the fact that fuel is spraying out of the cracked drain hose is a good sign that the bleeder valves are working correctly.

If the intake valves were bad from what I am reading I would see back pressure spray/spit shooting up out of the carb and that is not happening.

So I will replace the cracked hose and proceed with tune up adjustments. Man that hose is going to be hard to replace. It is in a tight spot on both ends.

 

[oldboat1]

Won't help with the installation in a tight spot, but pull it off and go to your local auto parts store for a replacement.

 

[kuts]

Won't help with the installation in a tight spot, but pull it off and go to your local auto parts store for a replacement.

Thank you. I used simple black rubber fuel line 1/4" ID from the auto parts store. It was reinforced with nylon ply or some type of material binder. I got it installed with minimal effort not as bad as it looked. I will test again later this week when I get off work early.

 

[oldboat1]

sounds like progress -- good luck with it!

 

[kuts]

FYI I did not test yet. I had family stuff to do last weekend.

However, I decided to do a deep clean on the carb. The parts are on their way. I notice a few potential problems with the carb now that I am looking close at it. The high speed tubes rubber seals have lost their elastic property and a dried out and signs of cracking. I noticed that I forgot to snug or tighten one of the packing nuts on the low speed jets. Not sure how much those things affected my last test but my gut tells me that any leaks are not good.

I also noticed the spring on the butterfly valve shaft is broke ( this is spring on the throttle shaft part 45 figE76 ). But the carb has another spring 43 fig E75 on the cam arm 42 fig E75 which looks like the same functional thing as spring 45. It has two springs apparently doing the same function. Back when I first ran the boat in 2015 I replaced spring 43 it was broke and I stuck a spring on it from the hardware store about the same maybe a little more tension than the original. Back in 2015 I did not notice if the other spring 45 was broke or not. Spring 45 would be a pain to replace since I would have to take the butterfly valve apart.

Q) Will it make a difference....should I replace both springs with OEM springs or just run one spring on the cam arm?

 

[F_R]

I don't have the picture you are looking at, so I don't know what springs you are talking about. The parts book does not show a spring on the butterfly shaft. In any case, if it were me, I avoid removing the butterfly shafts if at all possible. The screws are staked and will destroy the threads in the shaft if you just simply unscrew them out. You do not want any replacement screws coming out either, or they will destroy the powerhead.

 

[kuts]

I don't have the picture you are looking at, so I don't know what springs you are talking about. The parts book does not show a spring on the butterfly shaft. In any case, if it were me, I avoid removing the butterfly shafts if at all possible. The screws are staked and will destroy the threads in the shaft if you just simply unscrew them out. You do not want any replacement screws coming out either, or they will destroy the powerhead.

The drawing is located at this link. Hope the link works.
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/9/91/Evinrudeservice003.pdf

 

[kuts]

There are two drawings. One is on page 61 and the other on page 62. Apparently both drawings use parts list on Page 61 and then addition parts list on page 62 for the parts that are additional on later models. It looks like the spring part 45 was the original spring? I am thinking that it broke a long time ago and someone just added spring 43? Not sure how important it is to have the correct tension.

 

[kuts]

I don't have the picture you are looking at, so I don't know what springs you are talking about. The parts book does not show a spring on the butterfly shaft. In any case, if it were me, I avoid removing the butterfly shafts if at all possible. The screws are staked and will destroy the threads in the shaft if you just simply unscrew them out. You do not want any replacement screws coming out either, or they will destroy the powerhead.

F_R thanks for the heads up on the butterfly screws. Too bad I didn't ask you about this before I took the auto choke off. I found out the hard way. After I turned the first screw about 3 turns I started wondering ....what the heck is going on.....then I saw brass sticking out .....then I saw the screws were all staked in. So I just twisted them all out because I already messed the shaft up anyway. Anyway I have new screws and choke shaft on order since I striped the threads on it. The cost is one thing but the work I don't care about...I can do the work. The big problem is time on the water lost. Just a lot lessons for me to learn.

I think I can get the screws off, maybe, without messing up the threads. There has to be a way to do it. So I just ordered both springs. At this point what harm will it do to put the OEM parts back on....just more time. This time when I remove the screws I plan to dremel the screw heads off clean and then grab the screw end that is staked with needle nose vise grip and turn the screws out forward-through so that the staked end of the screw does not run through the shaft. Then replace the spring and reinstall the shaft and put new screws back in and stake the new screws. Yes sir I don't want those in the powerhead. Thank you again for the warning.

 

[F_R]

Ok, I see them now. To the best of my rememberance, #43 is the spring that closes the butterfly shaft when the cam is not pushing it open, and dates clear back to the V4-50 models. I honestly can't say I even remember #45 being there or the reason for it. So I plead ignorance on that one. All that really matters, in my thinking, is that the butterflies close completely at idle. I still would avoid removing the butterfly shaft unless absolutely necessary. Maybe somebody can jog my memory on #45.

 

[F_R]

Put a drop of red locktite on the new screws' threads to prevent them coming out. That stuff won't turn loose.

 

[kuts]

Put a drop of red locktite on the new screws' threads to prevent them coming out. That stuff won't turn loose.

Lock tight....I agree....will do. Thank you.

I think the threads on the high speed tubes must of originally had some type of glue too I can see something on them.

I found a way to remove the butterfly screws without doing damage; I did dremel the pan head off the scew flat then drilled it slowly dead center with 3/32 drill bit until the head came off. Then I filed two flat spots on the staked end of the screw parallel to each other using small smooth edged file making the end of the screw like a tee head bolt. Very little to grab onto. I made a small tee head wrench out of an old screwdriver using the dremel ( just cut a groove in the end of the screwdriver shank) and made it fit tight to the flat spots I filed out on the end of the screw. I backed the screw right out...not much tension on the screw but was a little more than needle nose pliers could deal with. Ready for the new spring and new screws.

 

[F_R]

Wow, lots of talent and determination there. Maybe you should be a jeweler.

 

[kuts]

Wow, lots of talent and determination there. Maybe you should be a jeweler.

Thanks lol. My uncle that gave me the boat is a jeweler.

The cleaning of the carb: I removed all the welch plugs cleaned out all the passageways with copper wire tube cleaners using mineral spirits. They were not really dirty. I saw no build up varnish or anything that looked like blockage except a few very small black rubber particles at the bottom of the high speed tubes and they were easily small enough to pass through the high speed tubes. So I went ahead and boiled the carb and associated parts in Pinesol since I already bought the Pinesol. Just enough heat to bring the Pinesol to low boil. Everything looked great. Everything went back together great>new welch plugs sealed good, new o-rings on the high speed tubes sealed good, new packing on the low speed jets sealed good, new spring and the throttle shaft fit perfect and operated correctly. I staked the new butterfly screws with a home-made anvil that fits inside the carb to support the screw heads and then using center punch and a small flat punch I smashed the screw ends out nice and tight. The butterflys all operate smooth and close/open evenly.

I did get a new OEM float it came with the carb-kit. I weighed it and found it is about 1 gram heavier than the float I was using that is coated with supper-glue. I have another OEM float that is about 2 grams lighter than this new one. I am starting to think that the weight of the float is not all that important as long is it opens and closes the float valve with some amount of allowable tolerance.

So I charged the battery, set the low jets to 1.5, set the throttle to high idle and set the automatic choke on. I tried to started the motor.....starter spun up and but did not engage the flywheel. First time that has ever happened. I tried it again and it started up. Ran at high idle for about 20-30 seconds and then without me touching the throttle or anything the motor RPM increased and it died like someone shut the key off. I pumped up the primer again as the glass bowl was about half full. I started it 3 more times and each time the same thing exactly ran for about 20-30 seconds revved up and died (the starter acting up not engaging the fly wheel several more times). So I moved the throttle to low idle and turned the jets to 3/4 turn and pumped up the primer bulb and after sever attempts to get the starter to turn it started up and ran a low idle for about 40 seconds and then started to stall...I quickly turned the jets back out the 1 turn and and it smoothed out for about 10 seconds and then lean sneezed and died.

Now the starter will not turn. It just makes a click sound when I turn the key. I was thinking maybe my battery is bad so I hooked up a jumper to my truck and still nothing just a click sound and the starter does nothing.

Could it be the fuel pump not be keeping up or not working right? It should not rev up and then die like that. Also it runs for about the same time period 30-40 seconds and then dies. I installed a new fuel pump diaphragm back in 2015 but I did not replace the check valves or springs....just the diaphragm.

I am guessing on the starter problem might be solenoid?

 

[racerone]

I believe the motor is running out of fuel.-------They typically rev up before they stop.-------Time for a fuel system check-up.