trim/tilt line leak repair help

[foilled]

As seen in photo below, how can i repair this leak i have on the tilt/trim line going into the cylinder? inside the blue circle is where it leaks. fluid comes out of the middle of the nut and outside of the tube. nut is pretty corroded in the cylinder and i cant seem to get it to budge with out stripping it. i also have next to no room to remove the other end of the hose, which is also very corroded and will probably strip trying to get that out aswell. what is the consequence of boating and just leaving the leak as in? any tips?

 

[alldodge]

It can be fixed but like all mechanic work, sometimes things need to be removed to gain access.

Have you tried a line wrench/flare nut wrench?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-MM-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set-6-Piece-HFNW6PC/203541511

 

[Bondo]

what is the consequence of boating and just leaving the leak as in?

Ayuh,...... It'll be leakin' oil into the water, 'n the water will get into the system,.....

Eventually, you'll be replacin' the entire trim system hydraulics,......

 

[foilled]

Ayuh,...... It'll be leakin' oil into the water, 'n the water will get into the system,.....

Eventually, you'll be replacin' the entire trim system hydraulics,......

is there any possible way to stop the leak without removing the line?

 

[alldodge]

Not likely, its under a lot of pressure (hydraulics)

 

[foilled]

Not likely, its under a lot of pressure (hydraulics)

is there any guides on how to remove the part of the gimbal assembly that turns the outdrive to gain access to the top part of the hydraulic line? i would need to get off #45 from this picture, its called the gimbal assembly. https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnso...cfm?mdl=F9STF1

 

[alldodge]

A Scott Danforth or kenny nunez could provide more insight but would need to remove the steering arm and low pin to remove the gimbal ring

 

[foilled]

A Scott Danforth or kenny nunez could provide more insight but would need to remove the steering arm and low pin to remove the gimbal ring

great thanks. how well do think welding the area outside the tube and inside the nut would work?

 

[alldodge]

It looks like a loose fitting to me not a crack that needs to be welded. In most cases welding on aluminum is not a great fix

 

[foilled]

It looks like a loose fitting to me not a crack that needs to be welded. In most cases welding on aluminum is not a great fix

it is loose. i can move it around. do you think it is because of a worn o ring? also im just trying to think of an alternate solution as these nuts on the end of the tube is seriously corroded into the drive cylinder and even worse into the gimbal housing and im not feeling to confidante about getting them out.

 

[alldodge]

Most those fittings are a 37 or so degree fitting, so no O rings. The nut just needs to be tightened down so long as the faces of both the line and the fitting have no issues

 

[foilled]

Most those fittings are a 37 or so degree fitting, so no O rings. The nut just needs to be tightened down so long as the faces of both the line and the fitting have no issues

if you look at line "63" in the link. that is the line im talking about. should i not be installing the # "50" oring with it? https://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55331.cfm?mdl=F9STF1

 

[alldodge]

Appears so, you know more then I. This kind of lines the O ring does the sealing but nut has to be tight. Th

 

[foilled]

Appears so, you know more then I. This kind of lines the O ring does the sealing but nut has to be tight. Th

so ive managed to remove the nut on the cylinder side. the pipe wont actually come out nor will nut screw back in flush in an attempt to make the nut flush with the pipes rimed end, (it wasnt flush to begin with) any tips? im still leaning toward welding the outer circle to the center nut. i dont know how to make this hydraulic and water tight. i feel like water was getting in there already and its really corroded. i was prying on the pipe with the nut loose and it does not want to come out and im questioning a new one even being able to tighten in enough for a secure holding anyways. what would you do?

 

[alldodge]

I would remove the cylinder and see if the threads can be cleaned up, along with sealing surface. Welding isn't going to be able to fix it IMO. It might not even be fixable

 

[foilled]

[No message]

 

[foilled]

how to retap

 

[foilled]

I would remove the cylinder and see if the threads can be cleaned up, along with sealing surface. Welding isn't going to be able to fix it IMO. It might not even be fixable

ive managed to remove the tube and the threads inside cylinder are basically flat the nut gets to a certain point and keeps spinning. i assume the hole is to big now so using the same thread size to retap wouldnt work. what should i do?

 

[alldodge]

The cylinder may be able to be repaired at a hydraulics repair shop, but my guess is it might be better to replace it

 

[foilled]

The cylinder may be able to be repaired at a hydraulics repair shop, but my guess is it might be better to replace it

great thanks for all your help