Milky Engine Oil

jgreenme

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May 20, 2019
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I have milky engine oil. I was working on the assumption that I had a blown head gasket but after reading lots of posts, I am not sure anymore. I'm enough of a mechanic to figure out how to replace the head gaskets (with lots of help from youtube) but I don't know how to figure out if that's really the problem. From the posts I've read it could be the exhaust manifold, a cracked head, a cracked block, the head gasket or something else entirely.

Here is what I think happened......I was concerned that I might have a blocked exhaust elbow so I took them off and cleaned and inspected them (rusty but nothing blocked). I put them back together and tried to start the engine. It cranked for a few seconds and the starter failed. In addition to the starter failing, one of the starter bolts sheared off inside the engine block. In order to fix it, I had to pull the engine.

In the process, I took out the plugs and noticed some fluid in cylinder #6. I believe, that I got some water in the cylinder when I was putting the exhaust elbows back on and hydrolocked the engine which resulted in the stater failure and the sheared starter bolt.

While I had the engine out, I cleaned and painted it and replaced a few parts that were rusted or damaged. Full disclosure, while I had it on the lift about 12 inches from the ground, the lift tipped over and the engine hit the floor. Dented the oil pan but didn't seem to do any other damage.

I got the engine back in and everything put back together. After running it several times, I discovered that the oil was milky. My guess is in hydrolocking the cylinder, I blew the head gasket.

I intended to go buy or borrow a compression gauge but I'm not sure that's going to tell me what's wrong, Every test I can think of would give the same result if it was a blown head gasket or a cracked head/block. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? I'd hate to buy a gasket set only to find out that I need a new engine.

I'm hesitant to take it to a marine mechanic. Last time I did that due to a "funny noise" I was told that he'd have to pull the engine with a minimum charge of $1000 just to diagnose it.
 

corvettedude

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Apr 30, 2018
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hey man I been dealing with milky oil this last week too. I still haven't figured it out but I did learn how to pressurize the cooling system to check for leaks and its actually pretty easy. It will let you rule out cracked block/head, headgasket issues.
 

alldodge

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As vette mentioned the first step would be to pressurize the cooling system to see if there is a leak somewhere. Before that we need to know what your working on. what motor, year and engine serial numbers are best
 

H20Rat

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Outside of the obvious problems, dented oil pans scare me. Depending on where it is dented and the engine, you may have pushed the pan into the oil pickup. Even if it didn't crack it immediately (going to be sucking air), the stress could cause it to fail at some point in the future.
 

jgreenme

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My boat is a 2002 Chaparral 200SSE. Engine model number: 0M088578 Serial: 4-M11025N-1. The purchase date was 9/29/2001 so I guess the engine is a 2001. From what I have researched, I believe it's a GM 305 V8 5.0L carb version.
 

alldodge

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Your serial number 0M088578 shows its a 98-01 (2001) 5.0
Parts for the motor
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/5-0l-2-bbl-gm-305-v-8-1998-2001-0l0

Hydrolocking a motor can also bend a connecting rod, damage a piston. Not syaing this happened, just info. I would start with pressurizing the cooling system.

Drain the block, then disconnect the hose coming from the drive (Alpha) or from the pump (Bravo) that is going to the thermostat housing. Plug the hose and disconnect the hosoes going to the exhaust manifolds and plug them. Attach a means to pressurize to 15 psi
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
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My boat is a 2002 Chaparral 200SSE. Engine model number: 0M088578 Serial: 4-M11025N-1. The purchase date was 9/29/2001 so I guess the engine is a 2001. From what I have researched, I believe it's a GM 305 V8 5.0L carb version.

Howdy,

Welcome aboard.

As indicated above, your first "test" should be a pressure test.

If the block will not hold 15psi, you likely have a cracked block..............leaking head gaskets are not as common as cracked blocks when discovered during Spring/Summer in an area that experiences freezing temps!

If your block is internally cracked, you'll probably hear "hissing" in the oil fill. If it's cracked externally, you can view cracks by spraying a little soapy water on the exterior. If it's cracked externally, it's frequently cracked internally.

Now might be a good time to upgrade to a 350 longblock!

Regards,

Rick
 

jgreenme

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May 20, 2019
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Thanks for the info guys. I will see what I can do to run a pressure test. I live in Central Florida so I don't expect freezing was an issue. I'll let you know what happens.
 
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