New brake lines

[rickasbury]

I want to replace my very old flexible brake lines. I have two axles, 10M rated trailer, disc brakes. I'm 20' from the actuator to the first axle. It is an aluminum I beam trailer.
current routing of the hoses is I have 7' of tubing that the hose goes through, it comes out, turns to the right. It goes along the rail and has tees that runs hoses along the axle to the two brakes on the other side.
I'm looking at brake kits, and want to go metal, but their installation guides show going straight down the center of the trailer and then teeing left to right to the calipers- so you have 17' of tubing exposed which I know is not going to work- ok for a utility trailer or something with a floor. It says it is for boat trailers....what am I missing?

 

[alldodge]

Its just instructions and they make kits for all kinds of trailers and didn't make any specifically for a boat trailer. Hydraulic lines can be routed anywhere and makes no difference in functionality. Run the new lines like the old

 

[gm280]

If you want to run down the center of the trailer, you could always install the new steel line in a stout heavy walled metal tubing for added protection. Just an idea. Remember hydraulic brake lines have an ever so slight time delay the longer the runs are. However, it is so minuscule, it is virtually ignored for all realistic purposes. So route your lines however you like or is most convenient.

 

[GA_Boater]

If you follow the instructions, how would the tubing be supported down the center of a boat trailer? That's why instructions for kits are guidelines and need to be adapted for your trailer.

Follow the original routing cuz the trailer builder did the adaptation for you.

 

[MTboatguy]

No reason to reinvent the wheel, it has been done for you and has been shown to be successful for a long time now.

 

[rickasbury]

Well that is what I would figure..but AGAIN thinking these line are for a trailer with a floor and not a boat trailer...found some rubber lines that at least show a good routing for the lines so will just go with that I guess ..60 bucks..

 

[matt167]

You could split a Tee at the Y part of the trailer and run 2 lines back. one each side. But if you go down one side and cross them with a Tee to the other side it will work just as well. Nicopp line will last forever if you don't use it in saltwater

 

[dingbat]

What brake kits are you looking at?

Bought 3-4 kits over the years. All where run inside the rails. Branched off and run across the axle to the other side.

I have always used SS brakes lines. Took the easy way out and used hose last time. Holding up well but the loss of pressure is noticeable. Going back to SS when it’s time to replace the brake lines again

 

[rickasbury]

I did order what I found above but was a hundred....was out of town all week and getting caught up around the house left no time to install. The new kit came with the same Tee's on there now so I'm sure will work.
. I did pick up my boat....I thought I had a wheel out of wack and jacked it up, it was way to hard to turn the wheel. My house is close and drove slowly. So I understand basically how the brakes work. When the actuator pushes the fluid the brake ingages- when the pressure is relieved, how far is that pad pulling back? It would seem like it still rubbing pretty good? I'm being told by others it should not be rubbing at all......

 

[alldodge]

When the actuator pushes the fluid the brake ingages- when the pressure is relieved, how far is that pad pulling back?

The disk doesn't pull back anymore then the rotor is out of round, so next to nothing. When the peddle is released, all pressure should also be released. This is where if the wrong master cylinder is used (like brake drum type), or one which has not been modified with a hole in the front check valve

 

[rickasbury]

I have rebuilt all the cylinders with new seals and pistons, new master cylinder and with new break lines I would think I should be getting these brakes to work properly...so they are always going to rub I guess...it's just hard to describe how hard it is to turn the wheel - know what is acceptable....sounds like as I replace the line to each wheel I should pull off each caliper, make sure the wheels are turning on the spindles, grade the slide pins...new bearings and races were installed....should be like a new trailer... Really want to go boating!

 

[alldodge]

Not doubting your expertise, but suggest it still may be the master. To prove, go for a 5 mile run at a place your not using brakes. Pull over in a smooth stop trying not to use the brakes much. Then measure the rotor temps

 

[rickasbury]

Uh, what expertise? None here! I did just replace the master as it stuck closed and assume it locked a caliper, cooked out the grease on one wheel etc...also got a new back up valve to go with it.

 

[rickasbury]

So- 20 ft means 20 ft from the actuator to the axle. If it was a utility trailer....thought there would be some extra to account for routing...so had to order a 6' piece with a coupler. To bad I'm getting to old to use all the knowledge I've gained dealing with this boat!

 

[dingbat]

Don’t see where you said you replaced and or lubed the sliders.

A hanging slider will prevent the caliper from releasing properly. Accounted for my last two brakes issues.

Pads should only “rub” on high spots of the disc. I get 1 to 1-1/2 revolutions of the wheel with a good spin.

Trapped air will also cause the problem too

If working properly, the hubs should be very warm, but not hot to the touch at the end of a trip. 400+ drop temp grease is advisable

 

[rickasbury]

I am going to jack up all the wheels after bleeding...as I install the new lines I will re grease all the slide pins and then see where I am at!
thanks for all the input..will be the weekend before I can wrap it up...

 

[dingbat]

I am going to jack up all the wheels after bleeding...as I install the new lines I will re grease all the slide pins and then see where I am at!
thanks for all the input..will be the weekend before I can wrap it up...

Special grease required..... Do not use plain old grease

 

[rickasbury]

So yesterday was a cooker here in FL as we were hitting 100 and doing anything outside was just brutal. Hats off to those that work outside in various trades....

I pulled each caliper and inspected. All the dust boots are intact with no visible sign of leaking. All the sliders were clean and free of rust and I put some fresh grease on them and back together. Lines were easy to install, would have been much easier and quicker with the boat off the trailer but that's another story. Bled the brakes down and jacked up each wheel to make sure they braked and released. Double checked all the lugs. We had a neighbor birth day party and with the heat I was just done so did not pull the trailer. Anxious to do so and see if the new reverse lock out is working, that would be sweet!

 

[rickasbury]

All looking good! I was leaking at the fitting to the master cylinder- have been advised that was an easy fitting to break so snugged that and re checked all connection. Seem to haul well and the back up lockout worked perfectly, it has not ever worked so very pleased with the effort..