Alpha one outdrive oil consumption..???!!!

harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
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2,477
Afraid that indicates need for a complete reseal job. Oil in the bellows is from a bad gear yoke seal on the driveshaft assy. Milky lube is from one or more of the seven other seals.
 

Brogoremerc

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Jul 22, 2019
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Here is some photos, definitely the shaft seal gone. It appears the oil is draining into the bellow.
 

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Brogoremerc

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Next question is , with oil leaking from input shaft seal, will more oil be forced out other than what’s been added to the reservoir? How much above the shaft is the vent hole to check oil level?

Wondering how long I can get by, I’m on vacation with the boat and want to run it until the end of week.
 

harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
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Your reservoir is you lube level reference. The shaft is about half submerged at vent level with drive down. After the drive warms up a few times most of the air burps out into the reservoir and the shaft is almost fully submerged.

Your safest bet is to buy a lube pump and two - three bottles of Merc High Performance Gear Lube (blue stuff) and an oil collection pan, and get your boat on a trailer to change the lube and have extra to keep the reservoir topped off.

To change your lube, trim the drive down as far as possible and still get the pan under the bullet nose. Remove the reservoir cap, then the drain plug on the bottom of the drive. When drained, remove the upper vent screw, attach the lube pump and lube bottle into the drain hole and pump until lube spills from the vent. This will take more than one quart, so you'll have to switch to the second bottle of lube. When lube spills from the vent, insert the vent screw and seal washer and keep pumping until you see fresh lube start to fill the reservoir bottle. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap tightly, then remove the lube pump hose and quickly replace the drain plug and seal washer.

If you can't arrange this, keep you reservoir topped off. I've resealed shot seal, milky oil outdrives and was surprised to see the critical gears and bearings in good shape. But don't push you luck. Try to get fresh lube in the drive, or get it fixed ASAP.
 

Brogoremerc

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Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
20
Your reservoir is you lube level reference. The shaft is about half submerged at vent level with drive down. After the drive warms up a few times most of the air burps out into the reservoir and the shaft is almost fully submerged.

Your safest bet is to buy a lube pump and two - three bottles of Merc High Performance Gear Lube (blue stuff) and an oil collection pan, and get your boat on a trailer to change the lube and have extra to keep the reservoir topped off.

To change your lube, trim the drive down as far as possible and still get the pan under the bullet nose. Remove the reservoir cap, then the drain plug on the bottom of the drive. When drained, remove the upper vent screw, attach the lube pump and lube bottle into the drain hole and pump until lube spills from the vent. This will take more than one quart, so you'll have to switch to the second bottle of lube. When lube spills from the vent, insert the vent screw and seal washer and keep pumping until you see fresh lube start to fill the reservoir bottle. Top off the reservoir and replace the cap tightly, then remove the lube pump hose and quickly replace the drain plug and seal washer.

If you can't arrange this, keep you reservoir topped off. I've resealed shot seal, milky oil outdrives and was surprised to see the critical gears and bearings in good shape. But don't push you luck. Try to get fresh lube in the drive, or get it fixed ASAP.

I definitely plan to rebuild just want to get by until the end of the week. I’ve purchased extra gear lube and plan to keep up with the loss of oil in reservoir.

Thanks for the input!
 

Brogoremerc

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Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
20
Here’s some pictures after taking off the stern drive. There is oil in bellows and 2nd picture is where the seals are leaking
 

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