77 55hpER flywheel gets hot not running

[sodak_nakeddog]

1977 Evinrude 55 hp 77553d
when ever I connect to a battery the flywheel gets warm/hot. Regardless of the wiring harness being connected. This is without the motor running. I haven't been on the water with it yet.

 

[flyingscott]

What are the cables connected to? Need to know where +/- hook up precisely.

 

[Faztbullet]

Check the rectifier...them being bad is what causes stators to overheat and leak goo

 

[sodak_nakeddog]

flyingscott the positive is connected to the post on the contol plug side on top of the silver square part (don't know it's name). And the negative is connected to the stud on the engine block right behind the starter. I am out of town so I don't have pictures

Faztbullet. I don't see goo leaking. Where would I need to be looking.

The choke solenoid and plunger are stuck and don't move so I have them removed until the replacements arrive. The motor sat for 10ish years before I got it. I have replaced the water pump, sparkplugs, battery cables, electric starter, choke solenoid assembly, fuel lines, went through the carbs, I have been able to get it started. And it seemed to run well in a tub of water for 2-3 min.

 

[sodak_nakeddog]

Help??? bump?

 

[juno pierrat]

remove flywheel, looks like thats the only place you haven't worked on, the goo , if any will be there

 

[Vic.S]

Help??? bump?

If the stator is getting warm or hot power must be flowing through it. The rectifier should prevent that happening.

Therefore as suggested above a defective rectifier is the first suspect The CDI electronics Troubleshooting Guide explains how to test a rectifier using a multimeter with a "diode test" range

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/CDI Troubleshooting Guide - 2012.pdf

The "easiest" way to damage a rectifier is to connect the battery with the polarity reversed. Be very careful you never do that, even for a split second. By the time you have said "bother" it's too late

it is possible that the stator coil has been damaged. Inspect it and replace if there is any sign of overheating or leaking "goo"

The CDI guide does explain how to test the sator but you need a meter with an DVA adapter

You will find a wiring diagram in the manual on the Boatinfo website http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1971-1989johnsonevinrude.html#/0 which you may find helpful

 

[kbait]

Test rectifier as stated above. There are diodes inside that should prevent your issue..they’re likely faulty. After installing new rectifier, hook up battery correctly and test run motor with volt meter hooked to battery, if voltage increases as you increase throttle (and motor runs..), your stator is working properly. If no increase in voltage, the battery charging part of stator is faulty (you can ohm test resistance per CDI troubleshooting guide) or wiring from stator to battery is bad.

 

[Joe Reeves]

The positive is connected to[COLOR=#FF0000][B] the post on the control plug side on top of the silver square part[/B][/COLOR] (don't know it's name). And the negative is connected to the stud on the engine block right behind the starter. I am out of town so I don't have pictures.[/QUOTE]

Sodak... When you get back in town, I for one would really like to see a picture of where that positive battery cable is attached as I have no idea what you are describing in the above quote.

The positive battery cable should be attached to the large terminal of the starter solenoid that other smaller RED wires are attached to that includes the 20amp power fuse.

If the immediate above statement is how your positive cable is hooked up and that causes the flywheel to heat up, you have a dead short, in all probability at the 3 wire rectifier resulting in 12v being applied to the stator. That should have caused a bit of sparking when the positive cable was attached... did it?