All of your intermediate and idle air bleed jets are exactly where they belong.
Racing any outboard over say 1800 rpm in neutral or even in gear if on a flushette is inviting a runaway engine which immediately goes into diesel mode, of which by the time you figure out how to stop it, it has connecting rods flying out the side of it. In short.... it explodes! Don't do that! Racerone's statement of "Bad things can happen" is a understatement.
The "Fuel Primer Solenoid"?... Yeah, you betcha, having that RED lever aimed anywhere excepting straight at the other end (automatic running position) would be the same as running a engine with the choke butterfly shut.. Don't do that either!
Note that we have no way of knowing just how that Fuel Primer Solenoid is attached... horizontal, straight up vertical, whatever. It's best to describe where that RED lever is pointed in relation to the solenoid body itself.
As "Scott" above states.... a beep every other second indicates "No Oil At The VRO Pump"! (Not good!!)... Prime the VRO as follows if that alarm sounds under normal circumstances.
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(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)
When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.
Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.
Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.
Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.
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Having a cold engine race away to 6000 rpms when starting, in my opinion, could only take place if perhaps the timer-base was set at the Full Spark Advance setting, or if the throttle butterflies were open, or a combination of the two. Check those two areas.
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(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)
NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.
1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.
2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
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