97 Johnson 15HP starts then dies

bigfish55

Cadet
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Messages
28
This is the motor I rebuilt last winter model J15REUC. I've used it for maybe 10-12 trips varying the amount of running time depending on the day. Performance was fine, but hard to know for sure due to the "break in" factor. Anyway, it started, idled, and ran well. Compression is 95/93, excellent spark on both, and full fuel in the carb bowl. Fuel pump is working fine.

2 weeks ago I was out on the water and slowed to idle speed. It was OK for a while, then began slowly losing power and making what can only be described as a "popping" sound. Then it died and would not re-start. I took it to my shop and checked compression, spark, and pulled & cleaned the carb (rebuilt in Jan). The carb looked clean, but I blew out all of the orifices and re-installed.The plugs were somewhat oily, but I've been running 24:1 until the last couple of trips. I also flushed out the fuel lines and added fresh gas. Now it starts great, but when I push in the choke it wants to die right away. I can keep it running for a few seconds if I give it half throttle, but then it dies anyway. I can repeat this as many times as I want, and it will start with one pull, then die.The motor sounds good for the brief time it will stay running.

I believe I followed the break-in procedure as well as I could, but then I didn't time it and of course, have no tach. I think I ran about 10 gallons at 24:1 but not positive since I would add fuel when I whenever I would use it. You guys helped me a lot with the post-rebuild problems I had. It was appreciated. Right now I'm not sure what to look at next.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,897
Opinions vary.-----The " popping " sound would lead me to check the flywheel key.
 

bigfish55

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Mar 27, 2018
Messages
28
Flywheel key was OK. What about flywheel torque? If I recall I had the mechanic next door torque it to the spec I gave him, but I'm pretty sure he didn't use a torque wrench. I secured the FW and he torqued it by feel. I know... The nut was pretty tight when I removed it today.
 

Vic.S

Rear Admiral
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May 4, 2004
Messages
4,720
Flywheel key was OK. What about flywheel torque? If I recall I had the mechanic next door torque it to the spec I gave him, but I'm pretty sure he didn't use a torque wrench. I secured the FW and he torqued it by feel. I know... The nut was pretty tight when I removed it today.

The correct torque for your 15 hp is 45 - 50 ft pounds. Also see the workshop manual for details of the correct key fitting
( I believe the key is marked and that the mark should face downwards Also unusually the key should be fitted with the flat face parallel with the taper but please check these points yourself.)

The threads of the nut should also be coated with OMC gasket sealing compound ,or similar

The flywheel nut must be correctly tightened so that the flywheel is driven by the taper. Not by the key, The key is only there to position the flywheel correctly , not to transmit the drive to it.
 
Last edited:

Alex Novo

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Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
25
If run on choke after rebuilt it may be a air leak on intake, spray carb cleaner while running to see if the problem goes away. Try when dark to check spark wires arching.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,897
Check for water in the fuel.----Test run with another tank and hose.
 

James R

Commander
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Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,681
To prove conclusively that it is a fuel issue. which is what I think it is, start the motor and then spray fuel/oil mix into the carb throat. If the motor picks up the problem is fuel supply. Never spray anything but fuel mix into the carb intake. If fuel problem is indicated squeeze the primer bulb once the engine fires. If the motor reacts well to the squeezing it is most likely that the fuel pump has failed.
 
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