What is this part? Mercury switch assembly?

DJ_Allatoona

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Feb 24, 2008
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I'm chasing down a weird electrical thing and I see this in the diagram: Part #58124A19 Mercury Switch Assembly.

What is it for, and what happens if it's bad?

aRlqsqQ.jpg
 

The Force power

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That is a switch (filled with mercury) when held in a "somewhat" horizontal position it close and designed to ground your ignition

Intended for if the running engine moving to a horizontal position to Kill the ignition or for example if the motor is tilled all the way up, it will not start the motor.

you can test them by taking an ohm reading to see if it close & opens by moving it's position (in hand or on the motor)
 

DJ_Allatoona

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Feb 24, 2008
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I see. Hm. If it's faulty, could it possibly kill the motor suddenly, refuse to start again, and make me paddle back to the ramp for 45 minutes on Christmas Eve? (Hypothetically)
 

Chris1956

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Gee, they hardly ever go bad. Actually I never heard of one going bad.

Disconnect it if it makes you feel better. If you hit something and the motor pops up, make sure to kill the ign.
 

DJ_Allatoona

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I'll test it. Just trying to chase down what's making the motor shut down at random times and other electrical weirdness. (see above)
 

Ksanthony

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Jun 3, 2019
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The way most of the safeties work is by grounding out the ignition, if its random I would suggest maybe a short in one of the wires going to a safety.
 

The Force power

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The "grounding-out" of the ignition is caused be three factors;
-Lanyard-switch
-Ignition-switch
-Temp.-switch (some models)
-Mercury-switch

Isolate each one by one to find the culprit
Faulty wiring (grounding circuit shorting to ground) is also common issue

As Chris1956 mentioned; they rarely go bad other the deteriorated wring on them
 

DJ_Allatoona

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Interesting that you mention "Temp Switch". This old motor does have one according to the diagram, but I'm not sure it's there and won't be able to check for another couple of days. Can you briefly tell me what it does and what happens if it's missing or bad?

And by the way: $289 for THIS little thing??

nbmB1DS.jpg
 

Texasmark

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Gotta jump in on this.....supporting info. Years ago, back in the '50-'60's era, Mercury had a test site at Lake X in Florida where they beat their engines to death. Power trim was pretty much non existent at the time. Engines were just hung on the transom and gravity kept them vertical.

Running their test boats over logs and sand bars and such, at high throttle settings, if an obstruction was hit, knocking the prop out of the water, there was no limit to the engine rpms encountered and when gravity took over and the prop came back down, spinning at several thousand RPM, making water contact, you had this tremendous "slam" against the transom the could break the engine mounting structure or knock out the transom.

So, taking the 40 hp Mark 55 as an example, maybe '56 for a year model, they installed shock absorbers to prevent the slamming and somewhere along the way decided to use a level sensing Mercury (chemical element, not engine brand) switch to kill the engine so that when an obstruction was encountered the prop wouldn't be spinning at several thousand rpm.

Mercury switches are usually in a sealed container with inert gas and there is no corrosion, nothing to spark and last indefinitely. I'd look elsewhere.

Back to the shocks: When Merc did come out with Power Trim, like I had on my mid '70's Merc. 850, the shock absorber mounting pattern made a perfect place to install power trim....just add operator controlled powered hydraulic fluid to the shocks and wala....instant Power Tilt and Trim.
 

The Force power

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Interesting that you mention "Temp Switch". This old motor does have one according to the diagram, but I'm not sure it's there and won't be able to check for another couple of days. Can you briefly tell me what it does and what happens if it's missing or bad?

And by the way: $289 for THIS little thing??

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"333","width":"500","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/nbmB1DS.jpg"**[/IMG2]

Are we still talking about your 75 hp 3 Cylinder?? those were used on motors such as 15 to 115 hp or so.
it is a temp switch that closes @ 260 (forms a ground-patch to active the alarm)
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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Overheat switches on Mercs of your motor's age were just alarms. It is good to test them to see if they ring the buzzer, but they do not kill the ignition.
 

Dukedog

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Oct 6, 2009
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think you said in another post when it quit "everything" went dead?.. if so it won't have anything ta do with tha motor electrics.. will concern battery/connections/cables and/or ign. switch.. boat electrics usually don't have anything ta do with motor electrics other than tha 12v power to tha start circuit.. which sometimes powers tha acc power... do you have a batt cut-off switch?

power tnt?.. if so does it still work when everything else quits?..
 

DJ_Allatoona

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The times it's happened, yes, all the 12V went dead as well, if only for a couple of seconds: radio, depth finder...then came back on. I didn't notice if the tilt/trim worked, the outage was so short.

I'll start attacking the wiring, looking for bad connex, grounds, etc.
 

The Force power

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None of your "kill-circuit would cause a total wipe out!
Check the Rectifier as someone already brought up in your other post.
a little tip; keep it in one post, it will be easier for all of us to follow your tray of thoughts
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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The times it's happened, yes, all the 12V went dead as well, if only for a couple of seconds: radio, depth finder...then came back on. I didn't notice if the tilt/trim worked, the outage was so short.

I'll start attacking the wiring, looking for bad connex, grounds, etc.

I would be looking at your connections starting with the battery cables and migrating toward the helm checking and cleaning every one.
 
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