Help with frozen Y pipe bolt

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Rick, thanks. I get the idea of welding through the hole, but there's hardly room there for the nut itself. It could work though. Here's the other issue - I'm almost certain this is not a stainless bolt. I don't think any of the bolts on the pipe are. This particular bolt might have been put in there by me (this boat has been in my family for a very long time). But I'm pretty sure the rest of them were factory (hard to be sure, been a long time since that pipe was installed). So anyway, the corrosion in there is probably really bad. I have worries about the easy out too. Mainly that even if I get it to go in there, I'll just break it off due to stuckness of the bolt. I have an arc welder but no mig. I think that will work on the plain steel bolt. I'm a little hesitant to weld in there given fire risk, but if I'm careful, I think it's doable.

Use brazing torch to minimize and concentrate heat on rounded bolt. You will have to burn out corrosion. I assume saltwater.... I also assume motor is out??? Heat up and spray with pentitrating oil. Be sure to have fire ext. near by. Let cool and repeat. Pray it is SS and not ferrous. If salt water boat, I suspect Y pipe is corroded badly too. I am having issues as well! Good luck!
 

HPwannabe

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
63
Chris, I'm pretty sure I have the early one. It's got the trim sensor at the top. Relocating the holes won't be too big a problem because I'm going to have to do some transom repair anyway. I have transom plate pn 65545, which has slots for the two upper outer studs, so, assuming those are the ones that moved, maybe it will already accept the MR bolt pattern?

Bondo, I was looking at upgrading all the way to alpha, but I'm afraid I'll be in for more changes - shift plate (cutout switch) stuff, the engine bell housing, etc. Trying to keep this somewhat affordable.

One other issue you mentioned was the tilt rams. I have the old style rams, so is that going to be something that causes a problem? The rams I have came with the MC1 but also mate up fine to the 1st gen alpha stern drive. So I would assume they would also work with the MR, is that not correct?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
You may need to find a later MC-1 inner plate. The slots on the early one aren't long enough. And the cutout is slightly bigger and the later gimbal housing doesn't fit.

Trim rams will 'mix and match', just be sure to have both rams the same.

Chris.......
 

HPwannabe

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
63
Use brazing torch to minimize and concentrate heat on rounded bolt. You will have to burn out corrosion. I assume saltwater.... I also assume motor is out??? Heat up and spray with pentitrating oil. Be sure to have fire ext. near by. Let cool and repeat. Pray it is SS and not ferrous. If salt water boat, I suspect Y pipe is corroded badly too. I am having issues as well! Good luck!

Thanks tank1949. I wound up removing it with assistance of a saws-all. Once I inspected closely and realized the exhaust separator was toast, I just cut the thing off and pulled the gimbal housing with the remnants of the pipe still attached. The gimbal housing is also shot.
 

HPwannabe

Seaman
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
63
You may need to find a later MC-1 inner plate. The slots on the early one aren't long enough. And the cutout is slightly bigger and the later gimbal housing doesn't fit.

Trim rams will 'mix and match', just be sure to have both rams the same.

Chris.......

Do you have any specific information on how I can tell which inner plate is the right one? Is there a dimension that I can measure (stud centers, width of cutout), or a specific part number series that nails it? My inner plate was broken, and I plan to replace it. But I was going to go with the same PN, unless that one will definitely not work. Of course, all this is unnecessary if I can find an MC1 gimbal that's in good shape and doesn't cost a Denver mint. I just missed out on one on ebay that really looked good. I should not have hesitated.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,911
Thanks tank1949. I wound up removing it with assistance of a saws-all. Once I inspected closely and realized the exhaust separator was toast, I just cut the thing off and pulled the gimbal housing with the remnants of the pipe still attached. The gimbal housing is also shot.

There are plenty of freshwater used alpha transom parts on ebay and lots of Iboats folks who can assist in what can mix or match. You will need exact year and serial # if possible. Good luck! I have been there!
 
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