1988 35 hp doesn't seem to want to shift

[Bob Schulz]

Trying to do overdue maintenance on a 35 hp Merc that has been setting for a while (3-5 years) and I tried to start it. Seems the shifter feels like it is working and all the pieces under the hood seem to be moving, but the linkage seems locked in place, prop won't turn in any position- Fwd, N, Rev- Won't turn over with the pull rope.
It ran perfectly last time we took it out, but it hasn't had any attention in a while. Where do I start with locating the problem ?

 

[racerone]

Remove lower unit.--------See if motor will turn.

 

[Texasmark]

Remove lower unit.--------See if motor will turn.

Elaborating since I am having my morning coffee: Racer is "dividing and conquering". If you pull the LU and it turns over problem is in the Lower Unit...discussed later. If it doesn't turn over, problem is in the power head.

Good to pull the LU anyway as the water pump impeller in the LU needs replacing anyway, sitting idle that long. LU could be your problem if you had water in your gearbox oil. You can find that out first thing by draining out some oil and checking the color, or checking for actual water draining, or some water molecules in the oil. Mercury uses a blue-black dye in their LU oil and if your oil is any color "lighter" than BB then you probably have a rust induced problem there.

Problem in the power head would be rusted cylinder walls to piston ring interface as a place to start.

 

[Bob Schulz]

Thanks guys. This is kind of the plan of attack I had in mind, but never have taken an outboard apart, so moving slowly on this so I don't screw up something. (even though I am great on car engines)
I guess I'm going to learn how to replace a water pump, which is something I needed to do in any case...

 

[Bob Schulz]

Well, got the lower unit off and it is definitely in the lower unit. Started to take it apart and got as far as the nut holding the prop shaft in. It was some kind of fiber material so I had to pretty much chip it out in pieces. Got the bent ear cover off the prop shaft and now I'm not sure if this is threaded in or???? it won't pull out with simple hand pulling, so I may have to be a bit more persuasive? I'm pretty convinced at this point we ran the lower unit without oil last time out and burned up the bearings, so trying to get to the point I know exactly what all parts I need to purchase to get this thing back to running condition....
On the bright side, the impeller for the water pump looks almost new and no scoring at all on the pump walls so I may not need to replace that part.

TIA,
Bob

 

[Bob Schulz]

Learning more every minute on this project. Once I got the prop shaft assembly out, I could see the real problem. Running without grease probably caused the seals to fail, so water was in everything. Setting this long caused everything to rust up substantially. I was able to wire wheel the rust off the prop shaft gear set, but now I need to get the inner set out, clean them up, and probably replace all the bearings. I think I'm at the point I may need to purchase a manual to go any further unless you guys have any hints on getting out the drive shaft and pinion gears and idler gears....

 

[Texasmark]

As you found out, the nut needed a special spanner wrench (or build your own as I did back in the day) and corrosion is your worst nightmare. A prop shop could weld chips in the lu and just might have a threaded tap that would chase the threads.

Check ebay for used lower units as that will probably be your best bet. I would be leery of buying from an individual unless I had it in my hand, checked the drive shaft to prop shaft rotation, checked the shifter and responses, clear blue black gear oil and no sign of sitting at a marina submerged housing corrosion. Some are from rebuilders or dealers and come with a warranty.

 

[Bob Schulz]

Well, finally got the unit completely apart. The nut on the end of the driveshaft was interesting, but finally found a way to get it off without dropping it into the abyss of the LU shifter/gears. Should be a real adventure getting it back on. Soaked everything in Liquid Wrench several times as the rust had gotten to just about every bearing in the LU and the one at the top of the LU drive shaft. Finally able to get hold of the drive shaft and tap it out the top and separate it from the pinion gear.

I was able to get the main gears and the rest of the necessary parts out and start oiling and cleaning them up. Used Evaporust on most of the parts, including the bearings which aren't available any more and they seem to be turning well and don't seem to have any rough spots so I guess I'm going to reuse them . Rinsed off the evaporust and hit everything with a healthy dose of WD40 to keep them from rusting and displace the water in places I couldn't wipe it off with a rag...

Parts showed up from a supplier yesterday so I will be attempting to put it all together today and probably learning some new adult words along the way. Haven't figured out how to pull the needle bearings for replacement yet, but they are in need of replacement. They are flatsided and won't work well in their present condition and the Evaporust doesn't seem to have gotten into them as well as the other parts.

Bob

 

[The Force power]

here's some info that might be help full
http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_2-40.html#/0

 

[The Force power]

this maybe helpful for your adventure

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_2-40.html#/0

 

[jimmbo]

If the gears are rusted, then they will need replacing,Reusing rusted bearings is asking for more Trouble. Are there any numbers on the bearing? A Bearing shop might find a replacement

You might have to look for another lower lower unit

 

[Bob Schulz]

Well, I had a sinking feeling someone would say that. So, weird thing, I checked on the same supplier who I ordered the other parts from and the bearings that were shown as "unavailable" are now available, so I just ordered the remainder of the bearings and now I wait....

 

[The Force power]

Oh boy, I don't don't want to see your cost on the parts:hororr:

 

[Bob Schulz]

this maybe helpful for your adventure

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/mercury_1965-1989_2-40.html#/0

For some reason, my anti virus program won't let me open the Adoble Flash Player I need to open these files. I'll keep trying, but is there some other way to open that file?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[The Force power]

For some reason, my anti virus program won't let me open the Adoble Flash Player I need to open these files. I'll keep trying, but is there some other way to open that file?

Thanks,
Bob

allow flash player to run

then it will work, this link covers many engines/models
scroll through and look for your specific needs

 

[Bob Schulz]

Oh boy, I don't don't want to see your cost on the parts:hororr:

Well, with the purchase of the bearings and the seal kit, and other parts I'll have about $275 in parts. Still cheaper than having a shop repair this motor . This is actually a motor on my son's Smokercraft Lodge we are trying to sell. I don't want to sell them a motor with problems, so I'll put out the extra to make sure it is right. I'm retired, so I have a bit of extra time to work on this ....

I really appreciate all the help everybody has offered. It has really helped me find the resources I need for this project...

Bob

 

[The Force power]

We'll help as much as possible. the problem for you is now also the lack of tools needed
especially the needle-bearing set for the drive-shaft, if somewhat still ok; leave it!
they're a PIA to get in

 

[Texasmark]

ebay is wonderful at having things like old gears.

If you pulled out any thousandts of an inch thick, large round shims, keep track of where they came from and ensure that they get put back where they came out. Has to do with getting the pinion gear on the end of the drive shaft (that you couldn't get off) and the rear of F and R gears meshing properly.......Merc has an instrument for setting that up so without it you are just hoping for the best.

 

[racerone]

An experienced hand with some mechanics blue can set up the gears.-----Just takes more time than factory / repair shop special tools.

 

[Bob Schulz]

I did see the mention in several places about the shims, but I didn't notice any shims come out when I took the unit apart, so I hope I don't have to worry about it...
I did have a small piece that is about 1/2" long x 3/8" wide with a ridge on one side fall out of the water pump area and I'm not sure where it goes....I'm pretty sure it is the impeller key, so I think I can figure out how to install it when the new impeller shows up...
Not looking forward to figuring out how to install some of these needle bearings, but I tried to put the drive shaft back in yesterday and it was very tight going through the bearing and wouldn't turn, so I'm pretty sure it will be getting replaced. I'll just have to invent some new adult words, I guess...


Bob