Engine Flush

[rsmith0801]

I have a 2007 Baja 202 Islander that has a Mercruiser 5.0 MPI in it. I recently had to pull the heads due to blown head gasket. I live on a saltwater canal and run the boat in saltwater regularly. I flush the engine with fresh water after every use but still have substantial rust building up throughout the ports and passages. My question is, if I rig up a system to create a closed loop type of flushing system to recirculate the water, what heavy rust eating flush could I use that would not eat up the seals in the water pump? Is there anything that would cut down on the rust?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Is there anything that would cut down on the rust?

when you replace your motor, switch to Fresh Water cooling (with a heat exchanger).

no, you cant add a heat exchanger to your current motor

 

[Rick Stephens]

The one time I hauled the boat to big salty I flushed with plenty of Salt Terminator to reduce internal corrosion each day when pulling the boat out. It worked.

 

[rsmith0801]

when you replace your motor, switch to Fresh Water cooling (with a heat exchanger).

no, you cant add a heat exchanger to your current motor

I'm not looking for a closed loop system for my current engine, just a temporary closed loop for recirculating a flush. Yeah, when I do replace the engine, I'm going with a 6.2 and definitely going with a closed loop cooling system.

 

[rsmith0801]

The one time I hauled the boat to big salty I flushed with plenty of Salt Terminator to reduce internal corrosion each day when pulling the boat out. It worked.

Salt Terminator as in Salt Away or something similar? I was thinking of something a little stronger for a onetime super-flush so to say by recirculating the water. Something that would help eat the rust but not so harsh that I ruin the water pump seals.

 

[bman440440]

I run 99% in salt.... what I do each time I go back onto the trailer is put the flush muffs on and start the engine and run it up to 1500 RPM (I have great water pressure at my ramp, even at that RPM there is still a lot of water forced out of the the muffs on the drive) and I let it run for 2-3 minutes then I switch over to salt away and let the container empty (almost clear) and shut the engine down... this has served me well and I split my risers/elbows every year for inspection and they look great after 3 years on them... even when I changed out my thermostat last year the intake looked good too... this is what I do and you can take it for what it's worth (just my 2c) and decide if that's what might work for you.

 

[Bondo]

Salt Terminator as in Salt Away or something similar? I was thinking of something a little stronger for a onetime super-flush so to say by recirculating the water. Something that would help eat the rust but not so harsh that I ruin the water pump seals.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... This is a Bad idea,.... All that rust, used to be cast iron,......

Clean it to good, 'n there's nothing left,.......

I was tryin' to clean up an intake ,manifold once, 'n popped off a chunk of rust, only to be lookin' right into the cam valley when the rust was gone,.....

 

[QBhoy]

Leave it full of anti freeze over winter and it will help.

 

[crazy charlie]

If you flush after every use there is now way you should be encountering all of the rust issues you mention.IMHO whatever you have in the way of manifolds and riser are inferior or meant for fresh water use.I run in salt only and flush religiously after EVERY running of my motors.I have replaced my mani and risers as pm after a minimum of 7 years and they were in such good condition I was able to resell the old ones for $100 a pair.Start fresh with quality replacement or oem mani and risers.I have used Osco and GLM with similar long time great results as long as you FRSH WATER FLUSH EVERY TIME
CHARLIE