1999 Ocean Runner 200 - Fuel Issue? Giving me fits.

[ghostwave]

Hey y'all.

So I floated my '84 Hydrasports 2100 with a '99 Ocean Runner 200 last weekend for the first time this season. Engine has had VRO disconnected for years - always run on ethanol free pre-mix. A few days ago, the boat ran fine for a 15 minute run from launch to my house, where we now have it tied up. Took it out yesterday to take my son wakesurfing and it again ran fine for the first 15 minutes or so, then all of the sudden, it started bogging bad. At first when symptom showed up, it wouldn't even keep running - but would always re-start. I cleared its throat with a few WOT's in neutral and after that, in gear, it would hold about 2000 rpms, but no more. Which was enough to get us home slowly. - I live near Folly Beach, SC - so it's all tidal creeks. Nerve wracking trip home because the tide was ripping and so was the wind.

I have a clear bottomed Racor and the fuel looked ok in it, but basically the boat was running like there was water all up in the fuel filter (ask me how I know what that feels like). Didn't see any water at bottom of Racor, but got home and went ahead and dumped the fuel filter contents into a big jar. What came out was fairly dirty but not filthy and of course, didn't have any water in it. I suspected a fuel flow issue, so I replaced the old fuel filter, disconnected and cleaned the small glass fuel filter below the carbs as well and for good measure rebuilt the primer solenoid, which had an occasional drip leak when actuated by pressing in the key. Also put on a nice new OMC fuel bulb to replace the ****ty Atwood one. Reassembled, and the bulb pumped up nice and firm and held that pressure.

Cranked the motor after that and it started immediately and idled smooth. Put it in gear, and it bogged and wanted to die at around 1/3 throttle. Anytime it stalled, it would start right back up and idle fine. But give it 1/3 throttle, and it'd run a bit and then slowly lose power til it died. If I gave it more than half throttle, it would keep running, but not with any gusto. Again, at full or near full throttle, as yesterday, it gave me about 2100 RPM's and no more. Didn't cut out at full throttle, just gutless. She's doesn't seem to be smoking abnormally btw either - she's always been pretty smoky. Puttered her back home after test run, and she now floats out back waiting on a fix.

Due to the sudden onset of symptoms, I'm thinking maybe a cracked fuel pump diaphragm. But I'd sure welcome wisdom from any fellow shelterers in place. My little dude and I are ready to get the old gal r u n n i n g.

 

[boobie]

What happens if you activate the primer when it's acting up ??

 

[Chris1956]

Does the primer bulb collapse when running?

 

[racerone]

Check for strong spark on all leads.

 

[Faztbullet]

Being in brackish water check for sticking shift switch

 

[ghostwave]

Will check all the above and report back. Thanks.

 

[ghostwave]

So while there was enough tide in the creek behind my house this morning. I went out and fired her up. Started right up. Pushed in the key to activate primer solenoid and after about five seconds motor would die - so solenoid is working. Noticed that there was a lot of oil going in the water on idle - and idle was smooth, but slow - as before. I then unhooked the shift switch and restarted. Idle went up to 1100 and boat seemed to run normally. Push down on shift switch, idle drops down. I think what may be happening is that the switch is being depressed through the full range. In other words, it's active all the time so I've only got 3 cylinders. This could make sense because I disconnected all the shift linkages before I floated the boat because reverse was sticky and I had to fill the zerk at the shift lever and manually -- and carefully -- shift her into reverse a bunch of times til she shifted smooth. When I reassembled, I may have tweaked the shift switch mount.
Tide's now too low to get the boat out and back right now for a test, but when it tide comes in late in the day I'll take her out with the shift switch jumpered so I can engage it from the console. Will report back.

For your trouble. Kevlar infused hull. Nice teak. Plows through waves like butter. Always something to work on. But that's how I like it.

 

[JODY1970]

Very well could be the shift switch if its running on three cyl. You can unhook the ground wire from switch and it shouod run on all six cyl.

 

[ghostwave]

Tides up. Took it out for a run with switch disconnected and it runs perfectly. I reckon I’ll spend some time with the linkage and see if I can’t get the switch dialed in. Seeing how well it runs without the switch makes me realize I’ve had some issues with that switch for awhile.

 

[racerone]

Fuel seems to be the first thing that gets picked on for some reason.-----That is why post # 4 says to check spark.

 

[ghostwave]

Fuel seems to be the first thing that gets picked on for some reason.-----That is why post # 4 says to check spark.

Yup. That would've told me up front. Of course, not being familiar with the shift switch, I'd have assumed I then had a bad stator or something.

I have a buddy who does a lot of work on marine engines. He reiterated that the switch's purpose is to make shifting into neutral easier and said if the motor is shifting fine without the switch (it is), I might want to not worry about the switch because it's just one more thing to hassle with. He said to be gentle with the shifter and it'll probably - but not definitely - be just fine. Fellow opinions?

 

[dingbat]

I have a buddy who does a lot of work on marine engines. He reiterated that the switch's purpose is to make shifting into neutral easier and said if the motor is shifting fine without the switch (it is), I might want to not worry about the switch because it's just one more thing to hassle with. He said to be gentle with the shifter and it'll probably - but not definitely - be just fine. Fellow opinions?

I run the Evinrude version of your motor.

There is nothing gentle about putting the motor In gear. Temporary slowing the motor is done to minimize the wear and tear on the clutch dog until they mesh.

Replace the switch or replace the clutch dog down the road.

 

[Faztbullet]

The shift switch only works when you shift to neutral, it kills motor to take load off clutch so its easier to disengage. Without it its hard on the cables as your are manually forcing it out of gear and this makes it easier to slam into opposite gear.

 

[ghostwave]

Thanks guys. I'll replace that switch . Motor is running awesome without it -- took her out this morning. But I'd way, way, way rather replace the switch than the clutch dog.

 

[racerone]

Not 100% sure but that switch appears to be listed as NLA.

 

[ghostwave]

I run the Evinrude version of your motor.

There is nothing gentle about putting the motor In gear. Temporary slowing the motor is done to minimize the wear and tear on the clutch dog until they mesh.

Replace the switch or replace the clutch dog down the road.

Hey Dingbat et al.
Shift switch update.
Because I was going to need the boat on short notice for an upcoming weekend and the shift switch would take awhile to arrive, I cut the wire to the switch and crimped in a long, dual strand run of tinned high quality speaker wire to a spare waterproof toggle switch I had in my toolbox. The speaker wire is about the same gauge as a decent quality household extension cord. Very well insulated.
I simply electric taped the switch to a grab bar on the center console and got a nice shock when I ran the motor with the switch and realized that, oh wait, this damn switch carries coil voltage. (My voltmeter showed something like 230V). So I electric taped the switch up better and ran it for the weekend without issue. Motor/switch worked fine and I didn't get shocked.
I have had it set up like this now for over a month - and I kind of like it having the switch operate manually. It's not that big a deal to remember to flip the switch when I need to shift to drop the operation down to 3 cylinders, and with the switch engaged, I also get an extra low-speed idle for fine maneuvering or picking up the kids when wakesurfing.
So I'm thinking of either:
A: Going ahead and mounting my 'manual shift interrupt switch' into the console properly. All the connections are already properly butt-connected/shrink wrapped with extra layers of shrink wrap to contact points for insulation. I just would need to drill out a hole in the console, run the wires under the deck and properly mount the switch.
B. Replacing the setup back to stock interrupt switch. The parts are available through Crowley Marine. I'm not crazy about having 230 volts running to the console. No matter how well insulated the switch is.
C. I suppose I could also run a 12V relay to somehow trigger a different high voltage switch inside the engine cowling so I don't have that kind of voltage at the console.
Would appreciate any feedback on whether I'm being stupid or other unforeseens.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, a lot of OMC engineers stayed up late drinking to design that spark cut out. Why do you not want to use the original feature?

It works perfectly on my engine....

 

[Faztbullet]

If that's what ya want it a easy fix....Install a GOOD water proof push button switch on dash to operate sealed relay . Mount in a DRY area or enclosed box and use push button to cycle relay. It is DPDT so will work fine. Also it voltage at low amps so don't have to worry about contacts welding..
https://www.amazon.com/Potter-Brumfield-T92P11D22-12-Power-T92S11D22-12/dp/B019AOP36C

 

[ghostwave]

If that's what ya want it a easy fix....Install a GOOD water proof push button switch on dash to operate sealed relay . Mount in a DRY area or enclosed box and use push button to cycle relay. It is DPDT so will work fine. Also it voltage at low amps so don't have to worry about contacts welding..
https://www.amazon.com/Potter-Brumfield-T92P11D22-12-Power-T92S11D22-12/dp/B019AOP36C

Thanks much. That's a really cool relay. I'll let you guys know what I decide. Chris1956 - The two reasons for the manual switch are -- a lower idle speed for approaching docks and swimmers, and taking one switch out from under the cowling and putting it within easy reach. Makes troubleshooting one notch easier and If the stock shift switch fails out on the water, getting to it to drive home fast is a PITA. As I've experienced. Still not fully convinced I won't go back to stock.

 

[dingbat]

Thanks much. That's a really cool relay. I'll let you guys know what I decide. Chris1956 - The two reasons for the manual switch are -- a lower idle speed for approaching docks and swimmers, and taking one switch out from under the cowling and putting it within easy reach. Makes troubleshooting one notch easier and If the stock shift switch fails out on the water, getting to it to drive home fast is a PITA. As I've experienced.

Scratching my head on your logic. The OE switch kicks out the cylinder for just a brief second. Most don't even know it happens.

Find it hard to believing that purposely killing a cylinder for any amount of time (slow mode) isn't going to flood the engine, fouling the plugs in the process.