2000 Johnson 200hp - Won't Run - HELP!

[offshoredude]

Cannot get this motor working and not sure what might be the cause. Here's the story...

I have a 2000 Johnson 200hp outboard (model# J200plssc) that I bought used (came on a '79 kencraft) and it is giving me inconsistent results. First, it would crank and never turn over. So, I replaced the spark plugs. I was then able to get it to turn over, however it was smoking really bad and died within 5 seconds (even when giving it some throttle). I then removed the 6 carburetors and the carb intake/throttle body. I took them completely apart, sprayed very well with carb cleaner and replaced all gaskets. I also replaced the needle and the float. This didn't seem to change much other than now it "occasionally" starts a little easier but still dies after a few seconds. I noticed the ball pump wasn't getting hard so I replaced with a new ball pump from Auto Zone. It seems to be getting hard now. Then I tested with new fuel (93) and some Sea Foam to try and clean it out. I also did a compression test and all cylinders are firing around 90 except one which is firing around 80 psi. This was the only time that it ran really well (obviously smoking a ton because of the sea foam). The next day I tried to run again using the new fuel and I'm back to the same results where it's very hard to start and when it does it just dies (a lot less smoke now though). So I checked the fuel filter and saw there was no filter in it and there was some gunk built up in the filter housing. Went to Auto Zone, they did not have the same filter but another filter that fits the 3/8" fuel line so I installed that - It is a significantly bigger filter just an FYI. I also replaced some of the fuel line running from the main fuel filter on the boat to the ball pump and to the Fuel Pump with brand new line. Same results except now it seems there is some fuel leaking from a jet in the throttle body itself (not the carbs). So I have a few questions...

1) Could the fuel be leaking from the throttle body because the new fuel filter is significantly larger and maybe too much pressure? Could this happen if I just over pumped the ball too many times?

2) Does anyone have any recommendations for next steps or suggestions on what might be the issue?

All help is greatly appreciated as I am completely stuck with this motor that I have never even been able to use!

 

[racerone]

What do you mean by ---" it would crank but never turn over " ??

 

[offshoredude]

racerone The flywheel would spin and I could visibly see the starter engaging with the flywheel but no matter how long I kept the key turned it wouldn't actually fire up. I'm not sure how else to answer that but I hope that helps. Basically trying to start but never actually starting if that makes sense.

 

[offshoredude]

racerone Do you have anything to add as far as insight into my post? Does my last reply clear up your question?

 

[racerone]

So you are saying that starter turns the flywheel ( cranking ) -----But it will not start.-----Have the battery load tested.----Pull that starter apart for inspection.-----Perhaps the flywheel is spinning too slow to generate spark !!

 

[offshoredude]

Yes that's correct and good point on the batteries....I failed to mention the batteries are brand new and I even had them tested again on Saturday to confirm they were still holding charge and both are good.

I will check the starter and take a look to make sure there's nothing going on there. If the flywheel is spinning to slow I wouldn't expect it to start at all though, right?

 

[dingbat]

Yes that's correct and good point on the batteries....I failed to mention the batteries are brand new and I even had them tested again on Saturday to confirm they were still holding charge and both are good.

I will check the starter and take a look to make sure there's nothing going on there. If the flywheel is spinning to slow I wouldn't expect it to start at all though, right?

Not necessarily.

Mine would start but it took some cranking. Took the starter apart on found some black windings.

Replaced the starter and it cranks noticeably faster now. Starts a whole lot easier now.

New after market starters are inexpensive

 

[1forward2back]

Try measuring the voltage to your started under load. Seams silly but I’ve seen it more than one. It’s also the first step in chi trouble shooting. If it’s bad change the cable

 

[offshoredude]

Thanks all. I will try these tonight and hopefully narrow down to something as simple as needing a new starter and/or cable.

 

[offshoredude]

One question though, even if the starter is going bad, that wouldn't explain the issue of it dying after 5-10 seconds would it?

 

[dingbat]

I have the Evinrude version of your motor.

These motor are temperamental to start (when cold) even in good running condition. Are you using the proper start method?

Did you remove and clean the throttle bodies when you rebuilt the carbs? That needs done as well. Been there, done that.

Have you checked the functionality of the primer solenoid (red knob) to make sure it's functioning properly.

Have you tried using a remote fuel supply to eliminate the fuel system from the equation?

Have you tried squeezing the primer bulb while the engine is running to see how it responses?

 

[1forward2back]

I do not think that if it it starts and runs for anytime it could be a voltage issue from the battery.

but when your motor starts I believe it goes into quick start witch it a preprogrammed start up that runs until motor warms up. I believe if quick start is enabling and the motor cranks and starts for anytime at all then voltage is not an issue. I would try checking the fuel pick up in the gas tank then hoses and fuel filters. Pull the carb drain screws and watch for uneven glas flow while you pump the bulb. I use a clear inline 40micron Fuel filter so I can easily see what’s goin into the fuel pump. If fuel seems to flow from the drain screws check the butterflies on the throttle plates if they are open a hair you’ll have issues this process known as a link and sink. Take pics or videos get a manual or a parts diagram to understand the adjustments involved. A lot of times the problems with outboard are overlooked so be through and good luck

 

[1forward2back]

If fuel leaks from carbs when you pump the primer bulb it check the needle valve in that carb or carbs. On mine I can pump the primer bulb until it’s so hard I can squeeze it any more and no leaks should occur

 

[dingbat]

I use a clear inline 40micron Fuel filter

Good for keeping sticks and leaves out of the fuel pump. Not much else

 

[1forward2back]

At least it’s good for something! But really if there’s a better way than pulling the hose clamp and sampling gas i would appreciate your input. Anyone that says they know everything just lied to you

 

[racerone]

Some testing and inspection needs to be done !----Test stator coils / windings.----Check timer base windings.----Check flywheel magnets !------And does spark on this motor jump a gap in air on a test device of at least 7/16" , yes , no or not sure why that is important ?----Also possibly hook up a 6 gallon portable fuel tank for test running.