No crank on 1999 VP 4.3GL

jakhammer24

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I have a 1999 Volvo Penta 4.3GL PWTR inside my Seaswirl 175 Bowrider and it won't crank. I turn the ignition, the initial beep occurs, I get 11v of power (resting) and all the gauges show activity/life. Upon "start" attempt, voltage drops to about 9v or so (even when I disconnect the fuel pump relay) which suggests that perhaps the starter might simply be stuck. I can't get a good angle on whacking it with a hammer (I've done this before on an automobile and it works on seized starters sometimes). I have tested the power at the relay (which is clicking once, each time I turn the key) and everything seems like it should be.

At this point, it looks like I'm going to have to pull the starter - which really sucks because I literally just bought this boat and haven't even put it in the water yet. I'm hoping that maybe there is something else I am missing and that maybe someone more knowledgeable could point out my oversite.

I'm mechanically inclined, so I could likely pull the starter myself, but I've read how much of a challenge it is so I'm trying to find other possible solutions before I go that far. Any help would be appreciated!
 

alldodge

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I get 11v of power (resting)

Sounds like you either have some corrosion and need to remove and clean both ends of the battery cables (I do mean BOTH ends)

Or your battery is bad

A good bat should read close to 12.7V and should in no way drop to 11
 

jakhammer24

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Sounds like you either have some corrosion and need to remove and clean both ends of the battery cables (I do mean BOTH ends)

Or your battery is bad

A good bat should read close to 12.7V and should in no way drop to 11

Wouldn't there be at least SOME attempt from the starter? Other vehicles I have had have at least tried cranking with poor voltage. It's a new battery, so I will check the cables and give them a good cleaning.

When you say both ends.... you mean the starter too? Go go gadget arms is the best way to get to that, right?
 

alldodge

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Both ends meaning, the negative which attaches to the rear of the block and yes the ends that connects to the starter. Corrosion is resistance and that will drop voltage being supplied and measured

It mat not be just corrosion, but start simple and work toward the issues
 

jakhammer24

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Okay I polished all the terminals and connectors, in the process I arced the starter and that spun so the starter itself is likely good.

Voltage still sitting at 11v or so. Hooked my vehicle to it and it brought it up past 12 but still no start. Relay clicks as I said before. looking like starter solenoid?
 

alldodge

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A 12V bat should read 12.7 full charge and hooking the car to it should bring it up to 14.5V.
Think your bat is bad
 

jakhammer24

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Brought to auto parts store, battery showed 12.7v on their equipment but suggested replacement. Replaced battery.

Same result in boat.
 

alldodge

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You have some bad cables, wiring something. A 12.7V bat will not show 12V or 11V unless the wiring is corroded Either that or your voltmeter has a problem

Do pull the starter if for any other reason then to rule it out and in doing so a bad connection may show up
 

jakhammer24

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Pulled the voltmeter and tested it directly to the battery - it reads 11+ volts, same as in dash. Dug out my habdheld voltmeter and it reads 12.7. So now I know that the voltage was just off on the reading, not in actual.

Moving to the next piece, how the ×&$>%>;× do I get this starter out? I can't see a damn thing working upside down. Is there a thread on starter removal? I tried searching and can't seem to find it.
 

alldodge

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Starter removal is a Be-ouch. Has 2 bolts which can be six or 12 point, most are 6 point bolts.

Some times its easier to pull motor then pull starter directly

If you can jump the starter by crossing the outside small terminal to the main terminal and it doesn't crank, then starter has to come out, unless the block is frozen
 
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