7.4GI Fuel Vapor Separator 3854149 No longer available

[nw_4wheeler]

I am in serious need of a solution here. I have a 1998 Chaparral Signature 240 with the 7.4l Volvo Penta GI engine. My Fuel Vapor Separator is corroded. I cannot find a replacement anywhere. I even took it to a shop to have the nipples built up with aluminum welding. This was a no-go. The mechanic believes it might have some magnesium or some other metal in it so they could not get any good welds. This picture shows what mine looks like but these pics were found online. Mine have much more corrosion on the sea water inlets than this one. I have read stories of many actually breaking off. Mine did not break but have serious corrosion. I am not against swapping out for a newer module that I need to retrofit it into my boat but I would like to minimize customization if possible.

My boat is in great shape and was in the process of replacing all seawater cooling lines when I found this problem. I found leaking down the back of the block where this is mounted. I have just replaced exhaust manifolds, risers, and many other new items. Dropping about $5k this year into everything. Was looking to keep this boat on the water for many more years and now I have this road block. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[nw_4wheeler]

I found something that looks like I could modify to work. It is for Electric Fuel Pump Assy for Volvo Penta 8.1Gi-CF, 8.1Gi-BF, 8.1Gi-DF, 8.1Gi-E item 263950122039. However, I cannot identify where the water cooling lines would connect. Anyone think this would be used for my 7.4l?
It looks like it comes with both the low and high pressure fuel pumps but is this the vapor separator also?

 

[dypcdiver]

I have just rebuilt mine, I got the base from http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...reservoir.aspx
The top and pump were in good condition, so I didn't need the complete unit.
20 years of use in salt water had rotted through into the upper part and salt water was contaminating the fuel.

I also considered fitting the later Fuel Module, but after pricing the brackets and different hoses needed, I decided to rebuild the original.

 

[nw_4wheeler]

dypcdiver - I did find this European website and it appeared that this is the part I need but at 502eur, or $558 US, I was concerned about this webpage and the fact that it shows up not secured. I would probably be ahead of the game if I spent this money rather than retrofit a new style fuel pump and system.

 

[Lou C]

Just a suggestion...why not take a look at Mercury's sterndrive fuel system for a similar year engine. I wonder if they might use the same parts, after all they all outsource these from somewhere. I found this with OMC and Volvo parts, for some things (hoses, exhaust parts, etc) the exact same part is NLA from OMC/BRP, but can be bought from V/P.

 

[Lou C]

PS
this is why even though I might be called a Luddite, I prefer simple carbed engines, vs EFI on old boats, the parts are all available in the aftermarket, either an Edelbrock or Holley 4bbl, a mechanical or low pressure electric Carter fuel pump, the carbs can be easily rebuilt in a couple hrs, you need a fuel pump, order it from JEGS or Summit Racing. None of this specialized stuff that only one company under contract made. EFI is great, till the parts become NLA...in this case...if the part can't be sourced...might think about converting to a carb...not really a hard job....
there are other parts sources, try NLA marine or ebay….from freshwater regions...

 

[dypcdiver]

Marinepartseurope is the outlet from VP Sweden, I have dealt with them several times over the years without problem. My tank arrived 5 days after ordering it. You might be able to get it tax fee if you ask, but you might have to pay in the USA.

I agree it is a lot of money, but the last one lasted 20 seasons and the cost of the new combined LP & HP that fits on the front in a similar place to the existing LP pump worked out at 3 times as much.

 

[nw_4wheeler]

Lou C - Swapping over to carborated might be an option if I wanted to bypass the ECU as well, but since my I/O is enclosed in a sweltering engine/bilge compartment, I would worry about the exact thing that this VST prevents, vapor locks. I grew up in Phoenix and old school high performance V8's make tons of heat and vapor locks on the Holly carbs was a real problem. I can only imagine that I would experience similar issues on this boat. Plus, the cost of converting this engine over to carboration would be close to the cost of the new tank from Europe. Since this one has lasted all these years, I think by the time a new one corrodes, we'll be another 30 years down the road.

 

[Lou C]

That’s true, we had that with a 1970 Ford Torino with an Autolite 2100 carb but the Ford intake had more hot coolant in it than the GM intakes, which only had the water passage in the front but did have an exhaust crossover in the center of the intake (Pre Vortec only). Vortec engines would not be as affected by vapor lock because they do not have an exhaust crossover.
We had 2 old school GMs (72 Impala 350 2bbl, 75 Olds 350 4bbl) both with Rochester carbs, neither one was prone to it. On the boat I’ve never had it either even with the exhaust crossover on my 4.3 pre Vortec. The Rochester Quadrajet has a thick insulator gasket that probably helps. If you can use a low pressure electric pump with a carb it helps also. Never had vapor lock even with temps in the high 90s here in NY...

 

[Nathaniel Currall]

I have just rebuilt mine, I got the base from http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...reservoir.aspx
The top and pump were in good condition, so I didn't need the complete unit.
20 years of use in salt water had rotted through into the upper part and salt water was contaminating the fuel.

I also considered fitting the later Fuel Module, but after pricing the brackets and different hoses needed, I decided to rebuild the original.

I have a similar problem with 1995 VP 5.7GI PHUS. Previous owner had raw water bypass the VST due to corrosion on nipples. I now have a replacement tank, but can't figure out how to route the seawater hoses. One of the large seawater nipples has a reducer and smaller hose attached and the other is capped, then there is a smaller hose on the other side of the tank. Can you tell me where each seawater hose goes to and where on tank each is connected?

 

[GA_Boater]

I have a similar problem with 1995 VP 5.7GI PHUS. Previous owner had raw water bypass the VST due to corrosion on nipples. I now have a replacement tank, but can't figure out how to route the seawater hoses. One of the large seawater nipples has a reducer and smaller hose attached and the other is capped, then there is a smaller hose on the other side of the tank. Can you tell me where each seawater hose goes to and where on tank each is connected?

Please start a new thread of your own.

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