2 barrel Holley rebuild kit

[Redrig]

I think I blew a power valve or something this past weekend, need to do a full rebuild as it will not idle.

The tag on a carburetor is D3JL-9510-S LIST 7036 ,

Looking on various websites I can't find a specific kit that is Marine and for this carburetor. Will any 2 barrel Marine Holley kit work for this? Any help?

Thanks in advance

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, just get the correct power valve. Did you have a backfire?

When you go thru the carb, use a fine wire to chase the passages in the metering block

 

[Redrig]

Hi Scott ,

No I did not have a backfire that I noticed . It was a very odd 5 days for my boat .

The first day and a half it rant perfect with no issues, then out of the blue it really started struggling at low RPM's and eventually wouldn't idle, it ran perfect at anything above ~2k. But in lower RPMs it was sputtering , tach bouncing all over the place and would not idle at all .

and Scott , you know powell. I was about 5 miles up the escalante arm when this happened . Talk about a crappy place to break down . Certainly got the heart pumping

 

[Scott Danforth]

sounds more like crud in the carb than a blown power valve.

is there any fuel in the clear hose from the fuel pump to air cleaner?

 

[Redrig]

sounds more like crud in the carb than a blown power valve.

is there any fuel in the clear hose from the fuel pump to air cleaner?

Nope , old school glass bowl that is done dry

 

[Redrig]

I think I found my problem. Take a look at this video, the little contact point is sitting in the points assembly wobbling around , sometimes it wouldn't even create a gap when high on the cam.

https://youtu.be/HEOLFzeFvQM

 

[VE8EV]

Thanks for sharing the solution. That's the nice thing about these old engines, when something goes wrong there's almost always a simple fix to be found. I carry a spare rotor, cap, points, and plugs with me just in case.

Good info on the carb, too. My spare engine is a 302 like yours and it should probably have a rebuild done on the carb.
No, I do not carry the spare engine with me... :lol:

 

[Redrig]

Thanks for sharing the solution. That's the nice thing about these old engines, when something goes wrong there's almost always a simple fix to be found. I carry a spare rotor, cap, points, and plugs with me just in case.

Good info on the carb, too. My spare engine is a 302 like yours and it should probably have a rebuild done on the carb.
No, I do not carry the spare engine with me... :lol:

Yeah , its always something . I feel the same way , carry spares of dang near everything . I was doubting everything on the boat on this trip as I could not figure out the issue (I even doubted the coil haha) Those silly points jacked up a week long vacation pretty good .

So, is this common with points ? or was this just some cheap chinese sierra junk that I got ? That contact point , basically like a little rivet is just wobbling around . The boat ran fine above 2k , below 2k though and I could barely keep it running , makes a little more sense now

 

[Lou C]

Yep looks like a cheap set of points it’s a problem throughout the aftermarket. I wish you could get good aftermarket stuff consistently. I have gotten them from BRP and not had problems I guess they use a different supplier.

 

[Redrig]

I'm pretty sure those were sierra brand , no more of those for me .

Funny how it works , I have stuck with points for the "simplicity" and the get you home factor. In thier defense they did get me home but it was ugly.

I was ready to sink the boat over a 6 dollar part

 

[Lou C]

PS....
another data point...
in my spare parts bin I have a set of OE OMC/BRP ignition parts, all are marked made in USA. You can order OE stuff from Crowley marine or Marine Engine dot com if you have no local dealers....

 

[Redrig]

Well it's not just the points issue .apparently everything that could go wrong did go wrong.

Busted axle
Broken points
esa not stuttering engine
2 Shear pins in tilt unit snapped

I thought i had fixed everything over the last month and was trying to take the boat out this weekend but didn't happen. I assumed that points issue was my problem but there's more to it. I have a new set of points in , dwell at 29 , timing right at 10 btdc, sob still won't idle . Idle surges like crazy.

It's a 2bl Holley, I had the idle\air screws completely closed(in) and it's still running pig rich . Actually at any setting the idle air screws make no difference.

I rebuilt the carb about 5 years ago and probably less than 200 hours on it , but it looks like that indeed is the problem. something is wrong in there .

So the moral to my story , once you think you have found the problem , keep looking as there could be others .

 

[Redrig]

Need some more help .

Regarding power valves , what should be in marine carb ? My old one is hard to read the number , it looks like 50 but I'm not showing that was ever an option.

My rebuild kit came with a 65 and that seems too high , even though the kit was designated marine .

This is just a plain Jane 302 , should I do a 25 or a 35 power valve or different ? Keep in mind I boat at higher elevations than most , roughly 3600 up to 7500 .

Any recommendations ? Thanks again

Edit - And one other thing for you gurus , cuz this has part has me completely stumped . Just for my own knowledge down the road......

My power valve that I just pulled out is holding vacuum and not torn , Saturday night my engine was running with the idle air screws completely turned in ? I figured that meant for sure the power valve was toast . How was the engine running , Where was it getting fuel?

It ran poorly and was surging but nonetheless it was running , idle air screws changed nothing.

 

[wklose]

If the idle air screws did nothing, the first thing I would check is the idle speed adjustment. If this needs to be set to high the throttle plates will uncover to much of the transfer slots, and you will be running off them and not the idle circuit. When its running and you look into the carb throat do you see fuel being pulled in through the boosters (could indicate bad needle and seat or to high float adjustment) or from accelerator pump nozzles (bad check ball)?
Wayne

 

[Redrig]

If the idle air screws did nothing, the first thing I would check is the idle speed adjustment. If this needs to be set to high the throttle plates will uncover to much of the transfer slots, and you will be running off them and not the idle circuit. When its running and you look into the carb throat do you see fuel being pulled in through the boosters (could indicate bad needle and seat or to high float adjustment) or from accelerator pump nozzles (bad check ball)?
Wayne

That's some good info , thanks for the feedback Wayne.

I had the idle as low as it would stay running , and it was surging between 800- 1000 . Overall just ran horribly and very rich

I am rebuilding it this week and I opted to go with a 2.5 power valve after searching the site , it sounds like that is the most common for marine .

Should have it all out back together and a test for the weekend .