1990 Doral Ignition Power Wire Help

[alldodge]

Thanks, its a TB4 and the TB5 above will be the same

 

[JoshHJ15]

Thanks, its a TB4 and the TB5 above will be the same

Ok so I'm pretty sure I have spark as I was able to keep it running while repeatedly pumping the throttle or dumping some fuel down the carb. I pulled off the mechanical fuel pump and it was all full of rust in the bottom. I took it apart and cleaned 99% of the rust out the best i could. Im going to install it back once I get home tonight.

I've heard there is a fuel filter on the inlet side of the carb from the fuel pump. Im unable to take that line off, since it must have rusted on or has same damn good thread locker on it.

Im planing on trying to open up the fuel tank and take a look inside since I'm suspecting that im gonna fine some crap inside the tank.

I also removed the fuel water separator filter and that was nasty too.

lastly I opened the carb up and sucked and cleaned all the bad gas from the bowl since it looked "foggy" I guess you could say.

I'll keep you updated the best i can

Thanks for the much needed help

 

[alldodge]

Can look into the tank from the sending unit. Use only a battery flash light and turn it ON or OFF away from the tank. Have a fan blowing air toward tank to keep fumes from building up

 

[JoshHJ15]

Can look into the tank from the sending unit. Use only a battery flash light and turn it ON or OFF away from the tank. Have a fan blowing air toward tank to keep fumes from building up

I think i can. I just installed the pump back again, and hooked the intake line right into a gas can, it just revs up and dies immediately still. At this point I'm not sure what's wrong. I'm 99% sure the pump is working, cause the carb still fills with fuel and I can still pump the throttle to keep it running.

 

[alldodge]

We need a bit more clear insight as to the trouble

Post 22

Ok so I'm pretty sure I have spark as I was able to keep it running while repeatedly pumping the throttle or dumping some fuel down the carb.

Now

I'm 99% sure the pump is working, cause the carb still fills with fuel and I can still pump the throttle to keep it running.

Otherwise we have no clue what the issue is

What is it spark or fuel?

 

[JoshHJ15]

I'm assuming fuel, since it stays running while dumping fuel into carb. Its just reving up and dieing now. Unless I pump the throttle.

 

[JoshHJ15]

What is it spark or fuel?

Could it be the idle screws causing the boat to rev up and die almost immediately?

 

[alldodge]

I also removed the fuel water separator filter and that was nasty too.

lastly I opened the carb up and sucked and cleaned all the bad gas from the bowl since it looked "foggy" I guess you could say

The carb needs to be removed and cleaned. It needs to be taken fully apart and all channels need to be cleaned out. Once its clean and reinstalled then try starting.

 

[JoshHJ15]

The carb needs to be removed and cleaned. It needs to be taken fully apart and all channels need to be cleaned out. Once its clean and reinstalled then try starting.

Ok, took the carb apart. The jets were quite clogged, i cleaned everything the best i could. Im getting new gaskets tomorrow. I'm also going to check the distributor cap see how those contacts are. Is there anything else I should be looking into?

 

[alldodge]

Look for a small thin single strain wire, and use it to push thru the small fuel channels

 

[JoshHJ15]

Ok, all cleaned up. I bought a new gasket kit since the old ones were destroyed when I took everything apart. As for the float height and the drop, is there just a standard height for the motor? I also saw that there's no spring for the needle that the float sits on. Ive heard its ok and not ok... will I still be good without the spring? I dont think ill be able to get one without buying a rebuild kit. Canada sucks for marine parts

 

[alldodge]

The kit normally comes with those numbers and can differ based on engine.

The float height also differs if the needle uses a spring or not. Either is ok, just changes the setting

Your serial number is for a 92-93 V6 so it can be one of 2 manual

Carbs - 3310-806080A-1 - 3310-806972 - 3310-807764
Float level 9/19 - taken from gasket
Float drop 1 3/32 - taken from gasket
Float weight 9 grams max

Carbs - 3310-806080 - 3304-9353 - 3304-9565
Float level 9/16 - taken from gasket
Float drop 1 1/4 - taken from gasket
Float weight 9 grams max

 

[JoshHJ15]

I set it based off the 2nd since my carb number is 3304-9565. And I got good news and bad news. Good news is she finally started and stayed running. Even sounded very healthy.

Bad news is my dumb a** kept pushing my luck when I was trying to get it running, I sometimes didn't have water flowing into the drive. So when I took it to the inlaws to test after installing the redone carb, she stopped sucking water up...

New water pump and impeller kit coming tomorrow

And yes yes I know I shouldn't have tried to start it without water in the first place i heard and read all about it.

My last thing is to look into the water temp gauge. It pins all the way to the hot side, so I'm assuming what I've read is that its a ground issue.


Thanks for all your help so far!

 

[alldodge]

My last thing is to look into the water temp gauge. It pins all the way to the hot side, so I'm assuming what I've read is that its a ground issue.

The standard is 240 ohms cold to 33 ohms hot
To test, remove the sender wire and with ignition ON it should read cold. When sender wire is shorted to ground it will peg hot

The gauge needs 12V and a ground along with the sender wire

 

[JoshHJ15]

The standard is 240 ohms cold to 33 ohms hot
To test, remove the sender wire and with ignition ON it should read cold. When sender wire is shorted to ground it will peg hot

The gauge needs 12V and a ground along with the sender wire

Ok, I'll take a look at the sender when I get home.

 

[JoshHJ15]

Fantastic news.... I decided to be an idiot and no ask questions before I pumped water up the water tube into the engine without it running because the impeller gernaded and got stuck in there, which the water did free up but yea....in turn filling it with 25L of water.... all was good, took it to the mechanic on Saturday, we pumped the oil pan out, did 3 oil changes, ran the engine each time and oil kept getting better. Ending up being next to perfect color on the 3rd one.

Yesterday rolls around and I hook the boat up to muffs start it up, runs great, maybe 30 secs later white milk starts coming out the flame arrestor and when I looked in the fill cap its just a white mess.

It also seemed to creep its way up the dipstick.

there also seems to be a water leak behind the engine above the hose that runs from the transom to the oil cooler im assuming thats the water intake line, cause it runs to the thermostat after. This leak is quite significant. And it happens when running on muffs. Not sure if this has anything to do with my oil situation.

 

[Bt Doctur]

You purchased a boat that was not winterized correctly and now has a cracked blocked and missing core plugs

 

[Bt Doctur]

I knew it needed minor things and paid 4200 out the door so not to bad?
You need to remove that Tattoo from your forehead

 

[JoshHJ15]

I knew it needed minor things and paid 4200 out the door so not to bad?
You need to remove that Tattoo from your forehead

I was told it needed a starter and bilge pump. At the time I didn't know much about boats and what to look for. Yea it was stupid I know that, u live and learn.

 

[Bt Doctur]

On you next buy take a qualified person to inspect it and if the seller refuses, keep shopping. Once the initial inspection passes, insist on hearing it run BEFORE you buy and do a compression test and inspect for cracks from leaks or marinetes,bondo,jb weld repairs. Last is a on water test for atleast a half hour