Throttle cable good or bad?

[Hurricane Jay]

I've been trying to adjust the throttle cable according to the installation book for my 3.0 L built in 1996. After increasing throttle past the forward detente position, then returning the control to idle position (straight up 12:00), the engine doesn't want to slow down to idle without manually forcing the linkage. The shaft of the cable pulls out a bit from the cable end guide when throttling up, causing the throttle not to close completely. Does this require a new throttle cable, or is there some other adjustment to be made?

 

[harringtondav]

Check the return spring on the throttle linkage plate next to your carb first. It may be weak, broken or disconnected.

Your cable may have a little excess free play. Disconnect the cable clamp (not the pin to the carb link) at the plate. Push the cable core back until the carb link is hard against the Idle stop. Pull the cable housing/sheath forward until you feel resistance and re-clamp it. This will take up any return slack.

 

[Hurricane Jay]

There's no return spring on it! I just assumed it didn't have one because the throttle is controlled by hand. I'll look for it in the bilge, but if it isn't there (or in pieces) what size spring should I look for to replace it?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,.... At the carb end of the cable, disconnect it, 'n lengthen/ shorten it so that it's holdin
the carb's butterfly closed,.....

No throttle return springs on boats,....

 

[Hurricane Jay]

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,.... At the carb end of the cable, disconnect it, 'n lengthen/ shorten it so that it's holdin
the carb's butterfly closed,.....

No throttle return springs on boats,....

I didn't think there was a spring; I can't even see where it would attach. As far as changing the length, this cable is anchored into the throttle linkage with a 'barrel.' No way to shorten or lengthen it. I'm going to assume that the core has stretched and the only way to eliminate the slack is a new cable. $$

 

[Hurricane Jay]

Here's what WOT looks like:

 

[Hurricane Jay]

Backed off to the detente position:

 

[Hurricane Jay]

Now back to idle, straight up. It may be hard to notice here, but the idle screw is not making contact and the brass cable end is further exposed than it should be. In this position, the engine is revving above idle.

 

[Bondo]

As far as changing the length, this cable is anchored into the throttle linkage with a 'barrel.' No way to shorten or lengthen it.

Ayuh,..... On the left side in yer picture, the "Barrel" is threaded,..... Pull it loose, 'n turn it to shorten/ lengthen the cable,......

 

[Hurricane Jay]

I've been doing that, following the instructions for throttle cable adjustment. They read, in part, "...push cable barrel end lightly toward throttle lever end. (This will place a slight preload on cable to avoid slack in cable when moving remote control lever.) Adjust barrel on throttle cable to align with anchor stud." Yet, some slack happens after the control lever is moved past detente and then brought back to original idle position. The final instruction reads, "Return remote control lever to idle position and check to ensure that throttle lever contacts idle speed adjustment screw." There is no instruction about what to do if the ISA screw isn't contacted.

 

[Bondo]

Adjust barrel on throttle cable to align with anchor stud."

Ayuh,..... Turn it another turn or 2,.....

 

[Hurricane Jay]

I'll try that in the morning when the sun isn't beating down on me. Thanks for sticking with me on this.

 

[Hurricane Jay]

Nope. It's already pushed in as far as it will go, so the cable barrel can't make it any tighter. The whole problem is that the cable's brass end backs out from the plastic end guide when the control arm is advanced, and stays out about 3/8 inch more than it should when returned to idle position.

 

[Bondo]

Nope. It's already pushed in as far as it will go, so the cable barrel can't make it any tighter. The whole problem is that the cable's brass end backs out from the plastic end guide when the control arm is advanced, and stays out about 3/8 inch more than it should when returned to idle position.

Ayuh,...... Ya see the tiny square headed screws on the carb end of the guide,..??,..??

Those secure the guide, to the inner cable,.....

 

[Hurricane Jay]

I can't make out any screws on the guide, only the cylindrical lead piece fitted into the plastic, which I assume to be what holds the cable in the guide. Nothing appears adjustable at that end. I've already previously pulled the shift module out to see if there were any means of cable adjustment; of course there isn't.

 

[Hurricane Jay]

This what the ends of a brand new cable look like.

 

[Bondo]

I can't make out any screws on the guide, only the cylindrical lead piece fitted into the plastic, which I assume to be what holds the cable in the guide. Nothing appears adjustable at that end. I've already previously pulled the shift module out to see if there were any means of cable adjustment; of course there isn't.

Ayuh,..... That used to be 2 tiny square headed screws through a threaded brass barrel to lock the cable,......

It sorta looks like a square head in the pic in post #8,.......

Ya got me,....... I'm gotta ideas,.......

 

[Hurricane Jay]

I dove into it one more time this morning. The piece that fits in the plastic guide, holding the cable in place, is round with a flat side. It cannot be removed. The cable is apparently sweated into it, perhaps with barbs to keep it in place. I tried to unscrew the threaded brass piece out of the brass ferrule, to no avail. Irks me that there is NO adjustment possible for when the cable stretches like it has. Now I'll have to order one and wait.