Possible starting issue

[Krzemienr]

I have Mercury Force 90 outboard (2-stoke). Takes very long to actually start. I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong myself. I have never owned a boat prior to this one, and only had this one running for about 4 months now. I pump the primer 2-3 times and try to start. Regardless of where I have the choke, the starter only engages for a split second. I can move the starter freely so it doesn't look seized to me. The boat sat for 5 years prior to me getting it. The carbs have been cleaned. New fuel filter and spark plugs put in. I just wanted to take the "operator error" aspect out of it before I do any electrical troubleshooting. I understand the starter should stay engaged until the cylinders fire up. It was my assumption that it would crank for more than a split second. Usually takes me 10-15 minutes to actually start. Should I be priming it more? I appreciate any input.

I have moved this question from another forum, and to add, the starting battery is new, I have a permanent charger installed on the boat so they batteries are always charged. I did try starting it with a jumper pack attached thinking the new battery was junk, and same result. All cables on battery and motor are tight.

 

[alldodge]

As with all questions serial numbers are best.

The starter should stay engaged until the motor starts, try's to start or the key is released. With it not staying engaged see if the starter can be jumped at the starter. If it stays engaged then look at the wiring, key switch and connections

 

[Krzemienr]

As with all questions serial numbers are best.

The starter should stay engaged until the motor starts, try's to start or the key is released. With it not staying engaged see if the starter can be jumped at the starter. If it stays engaged then look at the wiring, key switch and connections

That's what I assumed, I did try jumping at starter with same result. I have not tested anything yet because I was trying to see if I was doing something wrong. I can move the gear up and down relatively easily on the starter, so my initial thought was the solenoid, but again wanted to see if I was doing something wrong in starting it.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Dragging starter will do this. If the engine goes faster than the starter is driving it when it goes over TDC then the Bendix will drop out. Also if the starter is turning the engine less than about 300 RPM the magneto will not charge and fire.
Check the firing with an induction timing light and if it is not flashing you are not starting.
The solenoid does not drive the Bendix up, but rather the inertia in spinning spins it up on the spiral internal gear. That same spiral gear will pull it down when the engine goes faster than the starter.
Two things - get the starter fixed at a good starter / alternator shop or buy one (note: what is mostly available are cheap Chinese copies with crappy shafts. The DB electric is better than some, but the shafts are soft and will bend if you have a strong kick back)
Check the ignition firing during start.
Also sometimes if my engine has sat for a while it needs a brief shot of starting fluid to get it running the first time. After that it starts OK.
STARTING FLUID WILL NOT HELP THE ABOVE!

 

[Krzemienr]

Dragging starter will do this. If the engine goes faster than the starter is driving it when it goes over TDC then the Bendix will drop out. Also if the starter is turning the engine less than about 300 RPM the magneto will not charge and fire.
Check the firing with an induction timing light and if it is not flashing you are not starting.
The solenoid does not drive the Bendix up, but rather the inertia in spinning spins it up on the spiral internal gear. That same spiral gear will pull it down when the engine goes faster than the starter.
Two things - get the starter fixed at a good starter / alternator shop or buy one (note: what is mostly available are cheap Chinese copies with crappy shafts. The DB electric is better than some, but the shafts are soft and will bend if you have a strong kick back)
Check the ignition firing during start.
Also sometimes if my engine has sat for a while it needs a brief shot of starting fluid to get it running the first time. After that it starts OK.
STARTING FLUID WILL NOT HELP THE ABOVE!

Great thanks for the advice, I have used starting fluid on it twice only as I know it's not going to help and not a repair by any means. Didn't think of the timing since once it starts it runs with no issues but makes sense. I'll try to find a timing light.

 

[Redbarron%%]

The problem is that the charging of the capacitor in the CDI is very weak if the engine is turning over slowly and it may not fire at all, If the induction timing light flashes it means that there was current from the spark plug firing.
The root cause could easily be the starter needing to be rebuilt and dragging.
Still sometimes my engine still needs a shot of ether.

 

[Scott Danforth]

start with the battery and clean the connections all the way to the starter. if you have a bad connection, the starter will drop out. it will also spin the motor too slowly to start.

as AD mentioned in post #2, the starter should only disengage when you release the key.

 

[The Force power]

In addition to what I said in the merc. forum & our good members above have mentioned;
"jump" the Starter solenoid if the Starter stays engaged/cranking the solenoid is most likely faulty or has a bad ground/ power source

 

[Redbarron%%]

With a Bendix type starter the little spring will (very weakly) push the gear back down, but the real force that pushes the gear down is the speed of the engine is higher than the starter motor is turning and that screws it down the shaft. The solenoid would come into play only if it is not passing enough current to spin the starter.
If the gear is bouncing up and down as the engine is trying to start it is because the starter is not spinning up fast enough.
It could be a bad ground of course, but most likely a dragging starter caused by bad brushes or a bad armature or cracked magnet.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Squeezing the ball 2-3 times NOPE!!
You need to squeeze the ball until it gets hard.
That could be as much as 20 pumps or maybe 4???
If it doesn't firm up? then the float is stuck, the diaphragm
is bad or the valves in the pump are defective???

The starting procedure: pump ball, advance the throttle to raise the
idle, turn the key and as you turn push the key in to activate the choke.
If you need starting fluid then something is wrong??

The starter kicking out: rebuild it.
Make sure the connections are good and the battery's hot.
Clean the starter, there can be a lot of crud inside.