Starter problems 4.3 GL w/ SX drive

[Formula588]

I have a 99 chaparral 180LE. I'm now on my 3rd starter in a couple weeks. I tried a DB Electric starter, worked fine for a day. Next morning, starter turns, but is grazing the flywheel. DB sent me a replacement. Same thing happened, one day fine, next day spins but no engagement. I found a new volvo penta solenoid, changed that out and the starter just spins grazing the flywheel. I bought a more expensive aftermarket starter, it worked for 2 days this time. 3rd day, spins with no engagement. The crankshaft spins ok by hand cranking with wrench. Can't figure out whats killing 3 starters in a row. any ideas?

 

[alldodge]

What does the ring gear look like?
Would need to rotate the motor slowly to look at entire ring gear

 

[Formula588]

Ring gear looks good.

 

[alldodge]

Then I to don't see why your motor is the only one which has an issue. Post some pics of what it looks like

What is the motor serial number?

 

[Formula588]

I don't know either. Never seen anything like it. when I pull the starter ill get some pics of the flywheel. When i install a new starter,, it works fine.. then after a day, back to the same problem. I tried changing solenoid,, didn't fix it. 3 starters in a row. What could keep killing a starter so it won't engage the flywheel? you think if the drive was misaligned it could put enough of a bind on the crank/starter to break it?

 

[Formula588]

I should also add on the 3rd starter, i added shims thinking that would help relieve any bind on the starter if any. But there were no signs of the starter being in a bind to begin with.

 

[alldodge]

All GM 4.3 motors use the offset bolt pattern, which is the same as all other GM motors thru big block

No shimming is needed and there has to be an issue with the block and its mounting

 

[Formula588]

So you think the alignment or misalignment could cause this?

 

[alldodge]

So you think the alignment or misalignment could cause this?

Just a guess right now, but need more info to verify

Is this a new to you boat or been around a while?

 

[Formula588]

Its new to me. The boat came to me with the heads off the engine. I removed the engine and replaced with another used engine. I used the original motor mounts that came with the boat.

the engine does vibrate a bit at low rpm, so maybe it is binding. Didn't really want to pull the drive, but prob necessary now.

 

[alldodge]

the engine does vibrate a bit at low rpm, so maybe it is binding. Didn't really want to pull the drive, but prob necessary now.

I would agree
Pull and run the motor to see if vibration goes away

 

[89retta]

Are you sure the vibration isn't causing the starter bolts to loosen off some. That would explain why it first works then doesn't

 

[Formula588]

Are you sure the vibration isn't causing the starter bolts to loosen off some. That would explain why it first works then doesn't

I tried tightening the starter on the last one, ill check this one tomorrow.

 

[Formula588]

I would agree
Pull and run the motor to see if vibration goes away

Ugh lol

 

[Lou C]

Are you using the correct bolts for the starter? They have to be the right length and have a knurled portion that keeps them from loosening. When I installed an Arco pmgr starter I had to buy their installation kit with new bolts.

 

[Formula588]

Are you using the correct bolts for the starter? They have to be the right length and have a knurled portion that keeps them from loosening. When I installed an Arco pmgr starter I had to buy their installation kit with new bolts.

Yes definitely using the knurled bolts

 

[Lou C]

Ugh lol

Pulling the drive is a half hr job. Then you just have to put cooling water to the impeller housing so the engine has cooling water. You do know that, the drive is supposed to be removed once a season to do the drive maintenance (checking d/s bellows for water, gimble bearing for smooth movement and the u joints for loosness/binding). If you never remove it and get a leak in the bellows it will turn out to be very expensive!
PS the older non balance shaft versions of this engine did have some harmonic vibrations mostly felt at 1700-1800 rpm the later models with balance shafts did not.
But what you said was that the starter gear is 'grazing' the flywheel ring gear, do you mean its not being driven out far enough? If that's the case here's what I'd do first...
remove the starter (I know AGAIN) and bench test it. Get a remote starter switch and a pair of jumper cables. Hook up the red (positive) to the large positive stud on the solenoid and the black (negative) the body of the starter. Then connect the remote starter switch between the large positive stud on the solenoid and the terminal for the yellow/red wire on the solenoid (usually its the inner terminal closest to the engine when installed). Make sure you have a way of holding the starter down because it will jump a bit when you test it. The gear should jump out and the starter should spin when you hit the remote starter switch. If it does then you verified that the starter works when battery voltage is applied to it.
If it does not do this when installed, you need to check the voltage its getting both at the positive stud on the solenoid and on the yellow/red terminal. Low voltage there could cause what you are describing. I always bench test starters before installing.

 

[Formula588]

Pulling the drive is a half hr job. Then you just have to put cooling water to the impeller housing so the engine has cooling water. You do know that, the drive is supposed to be removed once a season to do the drive maintenance (checking d/s bellows for water, gimble bearing for smooth movement and the u joints for loosness/binding). If you never remove it and get a leak in the bellows it will turn out to be very expensive!
PS the older non balance shaft versions of this engine did have some harmonic vibrations mostly felt at 1700-1800 rpm the later models with balance shafts did not.
But what you said was that the starter gear is 'grazing' the flywheel ring gear, do you mean its not being driven out far enough? If that's the case here's what I'd do first...
remove the starter (I know AGAIN) and bench test it. Get a remote starter switch and a pair of jumper cables. Hook up the red (positive) to the large positive stud on the solenoid and the black (negative) the body of the starter. Then connect the remote starter switch between the large positive stud on the solenoid and the terminal for the yellow/red wire on the solenoid (usually its the inner terminal closest to the engine when installed). Make sure you have a way of holding the starter down because it will jump a bit when you test it. The gear should jump out and the starter should spin when you hit the remote starter switch. If it does then you verified that the starter works when battery voltage is applied to it.
If it does not do this when installed, you need to check the voltage its getting both at the positive stud on the solenoid and on the yellow/red terminal. Low voltage there could cause what you are describing. I always bench test starters before installing.

I just checked the voltage while still installed, and the red/yellow wire shows 5-7 volts when powering the starter.

 

[Formula588]

I also checked the ground and its good

 

[alldodge]

red/yellow wire shows 5-7 volts when powering the starter.

Bad connection should be 12V