4.3 MPI Performance issue

Crown18

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Oct 24, 2020
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Hello, first time poster here, long time follower. I have a 2005 Crownline 180 with a 4.3 MPI in it. Engine serial # is 0W333843. When I start the engine it does not fire off like I am used to with a Fuel injected engine, it just kind of slowly sputters until it gets to idle rpm. Once idling it seems to run smooth. When the engine is cold, the boat hops up on plane in about 1-2 seconds, but when it is warm, it turns into a dog. I had a 19p 3 blade prop on it and it would run 54 mph (gps) at 4800 rpm, Now I have a 17p 4 blade on it and it runs 48 mph but it over revs. Performance is good once on top of the water and at high speeds/ rpms. I really started questioning the performance of this when I was pulling a single tube with 3 kids on it and only me in the boat And I struggled very badly to get on plane (I pull this same tube behind my dads 90hp fishing boat and you cant even tell its back ther) After this is where I started troubleshooting and noticed a few things that indicate there is a problem, but I can’t figure out why. I have a Techmate Pro and there are no codes. Here is what I have done so far

1. Replaced Distributer cap (its the HVS flat top) and rotor. (The old one was corroded so bad Im surprised it even ran)
2. New spark plugs
3. Ohmed plug wires (all checked perfect) and checked about 10 times that the wires are on the correct terminals.
4. New IAC Valve
5. New Fuel/water separating filter (old one was less than a year old, and zero signs of water or contamination)
6. Compression test. All cylinders at 185 psi +/- 2
7. Cylinder leakdown test. Range from 75/80 to 77/80 (on a cold engine)
8. Fuel pressure goes smack to 43psi when I turn the key on, and slightly lower when running.
9. Checked all 6 wires with a plug gap tester and have a strong spark at every cylinder.
10. Checked rotor position and it is dead smack on the little (6) with number one at TDC.
11. New thermostat, rock solid at 160. replaced because the previous one was faulty and engine would not heat up.

Now, here is where things get interesting.

When the engine is not running the Techmate is showing the timing is commanded at 8° BTDC (which seems about right to me), but when I start it, it goes to zero degrees. As the engine warms up, the timing gets more and more retarded to about 9° ATDC. I used a timing light as well To verify, and even though there is not a degree scale, it is clearly firing after TDC. If i Increase RPM’s the timing will advance. The other thing is that it is only pulling about 10” HG of vacuum at idle, and the needle is steady. Would have expected to see somewhere around 18”. checked for intake leak, with carb cleaner and propane, and nothing found. All sensors and switches are within their normal values. All wires and grounds are good and tight. New battery that is fully charged. Fuel vent tube is clear.

Is there anything else that would cause the timing to be so far off? Other than maybe the computer. Again, its an MPI, so the timing is not adjustable. Im kind of at my wits end with this thing.

Thank you.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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43,287
If your compression gauge is accurate then there is liquid in the cylinders because 185 is way to high

Fuel pressure should be 43 psi at 1800 rpm

With key ON, what are the fuel pressure, TPS, MAP, IAC and battery volt readings when cold?
With key ON, does the fuel pressure drop off hold or slowly drop?

With motor cold and running what are the TPS, MAP and IAC readings when cold?
After motor is warmed up what are the readings and battery volts at or above 1800 rpm?
Fuel pressure reading when vacuum line is removed from regulator?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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51,312
agreed, 185 psi means you have a bad gauge or debris in your cylinders

do a cylinder drop test to see if you are running on all 6
 

Crown18

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Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
4
If your compression gauge is accurate then there is liquid in the cylinders because 185 is way to high

Fuel pressure should be 43 psi at 1800 rpm

With key ON, what are the fuel pressure, TPS, MAP, IAC and battery volt readings when cold?
With key ON, does the fuel pressure drop off hold or slowly drop?

With motor cold and running what are the TPS, MAP and IAC readings when cold?
After motor is warmed up what are the readings and battery volts at or above 1800 rpm?
Fuel pressure reading when vacuum line is removed from regulator?
So when I did a compression check on a cold engine my readings were about 160, the 185 was with a warm engine and the throttle wide open. It may not be the most accurate gauge, but all readings were within a few psi of each other.

Battery voltage at the battery was 12.5v (brand new battery). With the engine running, it was 14.4 at the battery with my meter and showing 14.2 on the techmate. I did notice the block pressure is showing 12.1psi with the engine off and when it is running it reads 13.5psi (not sure if that would cause anything or not). I did a cylinder drop test and they all had the same effect, so that leads me to believe all cylinders are firing. I am not sure of the spark table for this, but at idle it is still firing after TDC. At 1200rpm it is 4 BTDC, 1800rpm is 13 BTDC and will go up to 28 degrees maximum. The manifold vacuum at idle is still right around 11-12"HG (which I would expect to see around 17-18). At about 1000 rpm if I just barely move the throttle , the engine will stumble and run erratically and the timing will jump back and forth between 10 degrees before and 10 degress after, its all over the place. If I increase or decrease the throttle just a little bit (by tapping on the throttle plate with my finger, so it is barely moving) it will smooth out.
1603585447842.png

Thanks!
 

alldodge

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Staff member
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Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,287
The IAC should never see 99% othen then for s split second, and agree your vacuum is low. Fuel pressure is low, so either the regulator is weak or the injectors are leaking
 

QBhoy

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Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Sorry if I’ve missed it, but what temperature is the engine running at ? If the t stat is sticking and running cold, they over fuel and run crap. Do you have the right iridium plugs in it too ? I remember the Diz cap was mentioned, was it replaced too ?
By the way, your prop slip is incredible with those numbers. Is it a serious performance hull and a prop like an enertia or something you have ?
 

Crown18

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Oct 24, 2020
Messages
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Sorry if I’ve missed it, but what temperature is the engine running at ? If the t stat is sticking and running cold, they over fuel and run crap. Do you have the right iridium plugs in it too ? I remember the Diz cap was mentioned, was it replaced too ?
By the way, your prop slip is incredible with those numbers. Is it a serious performance hull and a prop like an enertia or something you have ?
Runs at 160 degrees, just put a new tsat in this summer because the old one was stuck open and it did run like crap. I put the ITR4A-15 NGK plugs in it this spring, gapped at .060 along with a new cap and rotor. I noticed today that when I first fired it up it sounded like I could hear spark jumping. I turned the lights off in my garage to see if I could see anything, but I couldn't so I just ordered another cap and rotor as maybe it was arcing internally.

Yes I did have an enertia 19p on it. Put on a 17p rev 4 just so I could pull kids around on a tube, and it still struggles getting out of the hole, but once it was on plane if I was at 2000RPM or so and hammered it down, it would give a good kick in the pants and runs super strong all the way up to the max RPM. It is a pretty small boat for 220HP, the hull is just a standard 18' runabout. 54 mph in that thing was fine on glass but a little bit of a pucker factor in any kind of waves.

Also noticed that the plug on the dist cap has nothing attached to it. I don't think it is used on my engine, but maybe it is supposed to be?
 
Last edited:

QBhoy

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Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Runs at 160 degrees, just put a new tsat in this summer because the old one was stuck open and it did run like crap. I put the ITR4A-15 NGK plugs in it this spring, gapped at .060 along with a new cap and rotor. I noticed today that when I first fired it up it sounded like I could hear spark jumping. I turned the lights off in my garage to see if I could see anything, but I couldn't so I just ordered another cap and rotor as maybe it was arcing internally.

Yes I did have an enertia 19p on it. Put on a 17p rev 4 just so I could pull kids around on a tube, and it still struggles getting out of the hole, but once it was on plane if I was at 2000RPM or so and hammered it down, it would give a good kick in the pants and runs super strong all the way up to the max RPM. It is a pretty small boat for 220HP, the hull is just a standard 18' runabout. 54 mph in that thing was fine on glass but a little bit of a pucker factor in any kind of waves.

Also noticed that the plug on the dist cap has nothing attached to it. I don't think it is used on my engine, but maybe it is supposed to be?
Those plugs aren’t that great on the mpi of it’s the ac delco platinum ones. Presume they are. Because you can’t gap iridium plugs. NGK 5599/5999. One of them. Can’t remember which, is what you really need. Maybe not the issue, but they defo don’t run well with just platinum plugs.
 

Crown18

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Oct 24, 2020
Messages
4
Those plugs aren’t that great on the mpi of it’s the ac delco platinum ones. Presume they are. Because you can’t gap iridium plugs. NGK 5599/5999. One of them. Can’t remember which, is what you really need. Maybe not the issue, but they defo don’t run well with just platinum plugs.
The 5599 and the ITR4A-15 are the same (not sure why they have 2 different numbers). It is an iridium plug and comes pre-gapped at .060.
 
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