Water in gear lube

[TMcDaniel]

First thanks to everyone who helped me rebuild my motor, all of your advice and comments were helpful and appreciated.
A few months after the motor rebuild I started noticing water in my gear lube. I seen oil on my skew so I took the prop off and replaced the oil seal and “line cutter” seal and refilled with new gear oil. Had it out last weekend and I’m still seeing water in the gear oil. Today I took the drive off and am doing a pressure test on it, I am spraying soapy water everywhere but don’t see any bubbles. I charged it with 20psi and after about 45 min it dropped to 10psi.
I’m not seeing any bubbles from the soapy water nor do I hear any air leaking out (not that I thought I would). Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong or give me any clues to what I should do next.
It’s an Alpha One “gen 2”

 

[TMcDaniel]

Hers a pic of my setup.

 

[todhunter]

I don't have an answer to your question, but please tell me your custom plate is a reference to Dude, Where's My Car?

 

[TMcDaniel]

I don't have an answer to your question, but please tell me your custom plate is a reference to Dude, Where's My Car?

Yes and no... it’s an 04 Mach 1 supercharger, viper chip, inter cooler, full exhaust, short shifter, 486hp to the wheels. So to answer your question the “an then” is for when I smoke your ass your left with the question... and then??

 

[Rick Stephens]

I once had to dunk a drive in a water trough to nail down a leak.

 

[TMcDaniel]

Ohh and cobra heads and SCT Dino tuned

 

[TMcDaniel]

I once had to dunk a drive in a water trough to nail down a leak.

Would it be worth it to just replace everything and not keep searching for the leak? All the seals for upper and lower are only $130.

 

[todhunter]

Yes and no... it’s an 04 Mach 1 supercharger, viper chip, inter cooler, full exhaust, short shifter, 486hp to the wheels. So to answer your question the “an then” is for when I smoke your ass your left with the question... and then??

Nice. I've got a custom plate on my car too to let the folks know what just gapped 'em.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Would it be worth it to just replace everything and not keep searching for the leak? All the seals for upper and lower are only $130.

Some of those seals likely require special tools upping that price a bit. I'd want to find my leak. When I dunked a drive, I had to turn and manipulate the input and propeller shafts to find the leak. I ran 10 psi and 15 psi, never higher. The oil seals under pressure push tighter to the shaft giving potentially unreliable results. Some people recommend a final vacuum test to make sure they are sealed up, a more realistic test but even harder to use to figure out where the leak is.

 

[TMcDaniel]

I bought the seal kits yesterday with the gear lube (the good stuff) it came out to $170. Took everything apart last night and went to town on it. Does anyone have a trick to getting the prop shaft bearing carrier out that’s the only thing I could get off. So far it’s going good. Looks like the leak was coming from under the water pump (carrier assembly).

 

[dubs283]

I bought the seal kits yesterday with the gear lube (the good stuff) it came out to $170. Took everything apart last night and went to town on it. Does anyone have a trick to getting the prop shaft bearing carrier out that’s the only thing I could get off. So far it’s going good. Looks like the leak was coming from under the water pump (carrier assembly).

remove threaded retainer and retaining ring then use a two jaw puller, requires long jaws and threaded rod. heat helps

i find it interesting that in your first post you mention replacing the prop shaft seals however now you are having difficulty removing the carrier assembly. in order to properly replace the prop shaft seals one must first remove the carrier

 

[TMcDaniel]

remove threaded retainer and retaining ring then use a two jaw puller, requires long jaws and threaded rod. heat helps

i find it interesting that in your first post you mention replacing the prop shaft seals however now you are having difficulty removing the carrier assembly. in order to properly replace the prop shaft seals one must first remove the carrier

I was able to replace them without removing the carrier.
Is there a way to remove the retaining ring without the special socket? I tried using a punch and a hammer but it didn’t budge. I don’t want to break it but also don’t have $100 to spend a tool I will probably never use again.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I was able to replace them without removing the carrier.
Is there a way to remove the retaining ring without the special socket? I tried using a punch and a hammer but it didn’t budge. I don’t want to break it but also don’t have $100 to spend a tool I will probably never use again.

Pro shops tend to cut and break out the carrier and replace it, costs less than the usually wasted effort to unscrew it.

 

[dubs283]

I was able to replace them without removing the carrier.
Is there a way to remove the retaining ring without the special socket? I tried using a punch and a hammer but it didn’t budge. I don’t want to break it but also don’t have $100 to spend a tool I will probably never use again.

you can drill it, chisel and punch it out thus destroying it and replace it with a new one

but, you will need the special tool to torque it to spec, 190 - 200 lbs/ft