Mystery issues with Volvo Penta since I/O service

Benskey

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Jun 24, 2022
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7
My I/O is a:

- 2008 Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi-Gf 300 hp
- DP-SM (SX duo-prop)

I piloted my boat to the boat yard to get some work done. It ran well as it always has, and aside from a noisy pulley there were no issues with the inboard.

I normally do the annual service myself but because I plan to take it quite far this year I thought I’d get a professional marine mechanic to do the work instead.

On the inboard I requested:
- the inboard be given a general service (oils, filters)
- the pulley be replaced
- the serpentine belt be replaced

On the out drive I requested:
- the tilt cylinders be replaced with the new Volvo Penta ones I’d purchased.
- the props be repaired and replaced.

Following the service, when I put the boat back in the water the following was immediately apparent (it ran rough-as-guts)

  • loss of power - 4,000 revs plus and only 5 knots. Normally 3,000 revs get it on a plane and up to 20 knots within seconds.
  • the revs were all over the place - without touching the throttle it will jump around up and down between 1,200 to 2,500+ revs.
  • at idle the boat is at 1,200 revs - higher than before
  • very rough, spluttering sound
  • often close to stalling
  • regular backfiring
  • entire engine block shaking
  • slow to start up
  • noisy rough feeling steering
I immediately took the boat back to the mechanic.
He said it was nothing he could have done given the scope of the work.

He checked the distributor cap, found it to be quite corroded and so I agreed to replace it along with all cables and spark plugs.

He did a compression test too which reported great results, all units at 170-180 psi.

Unfortunately the replacement of the ignition parts did not improve the performance of the boat and it is still running terribly.

The mechanic now thinks it might be the coupler that connects the out drive to the inboard.

I’d appreciate anyone’s thoughts about possible cause.

Is there anyway a coupler or misalignment of shaft cause the issues described? Eg. Could removing tilt cylinders cause a misalignment?

Based on the work performed can anyone see a likely cause?

To me it feels like I had a boat that was running great. It needed a little work sure, but nothing serious and no reason to think it could affect the general performance. The mechanic is still attempting to troubleshoot.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,821
The engine is turning 4000rpm and the boat is only moving 5 knots? And the the Rpm are bouncing up and down, and the Idle is way too high.

Did they give you the correct boat?
 

dubs283

Vice Admiral
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Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,340
First thought is your mechanic installed the incorrect serpentine belt or the belt routing among the pulleys is incorrect.

Did they repair and reinstall your original propellers or sell you new/different props?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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50,882
Double check the compression, spec is 150 psi. A good mechanic would know that. 170-180 psi is BS or bad gauge

Could be coupler, however would not explain backfiring or shaking

fluctuating RPM, rough running and shaking sounds fuel system related. Either an air leak or water in the system.

Not sure why you would replace cylinders unless they are damaged if a seal kit would have sufficed

High idle would be someone screwed with the throttle cable or idle speed setting, probably to account for the rough running
 

Benskey

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Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
7
First thought is your mechanic installed the incorrect serpentine belt or the belt routing among the pulleys is incorrect.

Did they repair and reinstall your original propellers or sell you new/different props?
Yes they did install the wrong belt because the spare that was in the boat was incorrect. When they worked that out and installed the correct one it did not improve anything.

The props were repaired by a prop welding specialist and put back on.
 

Benskey

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
7
Double check the compression, spec is 150 psi. A good mechanic would know that. 170-180 psi is BS or bad gauge

Could be coupler, however would not explain backfiring or shaking

fluctuating RPM, rough running and shaking sounds fuel system related. Either an air leak or water in the system.

Not sure why you would replace cylinders unless they are damaged if a seal kit would have sufficed

High idle would be someone screwed with the throttle cable or idle speed setting, probably to account for the rough running
The tilt cylinders were completely corroded and leaking.

Interesting about the compression spec.

Some water in the fuel is not impossible because the boat was moored over winter (in BC Canada so temps between -5 to 5 degrees C). The tank was pretty full though so I hoped it would be OK.
 

Benskey

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
7
The engine is turning 4000rpm and the boat is only moving 5 knots? And the the Rpm are bouncing up and down, and the Idle is way too high.

Did they give you the correct boat?
It sure felt like a different engine :(

But it's definitely the original.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,882
The tilt cylinders were completely corroded and leaking.

Interesting about the compression spec.

Some water in the fuel is not impossible because the boat was moored over winter (in BC Canada so temps between -5 to 5 degrees C). The tank was pretty full though so I hoped it would be OK.
Yes they did install the wrong belt because the spare that was in the boat was incorrect. When they worked that out and installed the correct one it did not improve anything.

The props were repaired by a prop welding specialist and put back on.
check for water in the fuel

did the prop guy have proper pitch blocks?
 

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,340
Yes they did install the wrong belt because the spare that was in the boat was incorrect. When they worked that out and installed the correct one it did not improve anything
Not saying anything about your choice of service provider but if they didn't recognize the wrong belt (see: provided) install either their not honest or have better things to do.

And, if they could not initially service the serp belt I'd be suspect of their handling of rebuilt props. Especially if the prop rebuilder is off site
 

Benskey

Cadet
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
7
Update:
Boat still stuck in yard.

Mechanics unable to separate drive from inboard. They've got it 1 inch off, but gimbal bearing seized to drive, and won't separate from coupler. They've tried 6 tonne jack, forklift (and all the usual methods prior, like just using tilt with a jam). Lots of penetration agents. Still no luck. They are making continued attempts every day between other jobs... Hoping it will give one day.

Any ideas appreciated. Getting desperate.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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50,882
Update:
Boat still stuck in yard.

Mechanics unable to separate drive from inboard. They've got it 1 inch off, but gimbal bearing seized to drive, and won't separate from coupler. They've tried 6 tonne jack, forklift (and all the usual methods prior, like just using tilt with a jam). Lots of penetration agents. Still no luck. They are making continued attempts every day between other jobs... Hoping it will give one day.

Any ideas appreciated. Getting desperate.
guessing the drive hasnt been coming off for its annual maintenance

with that stated, using the tilt rams and a block of wood and the 1" gap you have you should be able to force the drive off the housing taking the gimbal bearing with it in about 20 minutes. those two tilt rams at full pressure generate well over 5500# of force each
 

QBhoy

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Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Hi. I’m wondering if there is water in the gear oil or it’s the wrong oil. Causing the cone clutch to slip.
 
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