1999 115hp evinrude ficht

[Crosbyman]

typical inj resistance is 2-3 ohms refer to pages 174-176 in the 2002 + manual.

 

[Crosbyman]

btw at just KEY ON the main buss will be at 12v not 40v.... 40 v is when the engine is running but the wiring testing is the same.

At KEY ON the EMM does the initial sensing of sensors, injectors, ignition coils , etc... and calls the shot and declares faults on the side LED's and EV diag.

At KEY ON the #4 is certainly not hot but if the EMM says it is OPEN then the initial sensing process failed because the EMM can't see 12v or any quick test current on the green control wire.

The wire ...maybe solid grounded along it's path to the injector or.... internally in the injector eventually causing heat to build up in the inj #4.

 

[Landshark93]

btw at just KEY ON the main buss will be at 12v not 40v.... 40 v is when the engine is running but the wiring testing is the same.

At KEY ON the EMM does the initial sensing of sensors, injectors, ignition coils , etc... and calls the shot and declares faults on the side LED's and EV diag.

At KEY ON the #4 is certainly not hot but if the EMM says it is OPEN then the initial sensing process failed because the EMM can't see 12v or any quick test current on the green control wire.

The wire ...maybe solid grounded along it's path to the injector or.... internally in the injector eventually causing heat to build up in the inj #4.

We’ll little update the motor will not start with #4 injector plugged in the voltage to the injector is good the ohms read 1.0 manual says .80-.95 checked another injector just to make sure they were reading the same.
And I did also previously I replaced the #4 injector with a used one and it had the same problems I dident program it but it still should function so when Crosby said to check the wires I figured that would have been it. I rustled around the the wire a bit just the j2 green going to the number four and nothing.

the manual says I can pressure check the injector by putting it in the oil injectors place I’m going to try that if it’s honest stuck open and it’s not a wiring issue or anything else that’s the last thing right or am I missing something?

Thanks for all the help I’m a novice and it shoes !

 

[Crosbyman]

if the EMM says #4 is open it is not " communicating" with it electrically.
or a worst case ... THE EMM is suffering mental failure (bad EMM)


as far as the EMM is concerned it can not tell if an injector has a mecanical failure (except electrically of course. )

pull the J2 connector while the key is OFF

inspect j2 connector....... pin one for physical damage/corrosion etc...... if none then ....

VOM probe j2 pin#1 to which the green is attached. measure the green resistance from the pin#1 in the J2 connector up to the #4 connector green end to confirm full continuity end to end. resistance should be next to 0 ohms (full continuity) .

visually and closely inspect the matching #1 pin inside the J2 on the EMM look for corrosion, bent pin whatever.....

Apply electrical contact cleaner spray on J2 EMM and J2 connector side
reconnect and retest. may as well give a shot of cleaner in the injector connector to

The above instructions are based on my limited experience gained form E-TEC technology/trouble cases from the ETEC owner'S board but I am not a professionnal mecanic but....above suggestions is what I would do to my ETEC engine with a similar problem.
Ultimately if the issue proves to be EMM, you have the option of having it repaired. New ones are likely NLA . Farther down the road if you feel the injector is internally stuck..... you can always try soaking the inside with some light lubricant and pulsing it manually with an external battery source. 12 v should create some reaction. Let it soak a few days if you have to. One alternative is to send it to a Inj. shop

 

[Landshark93]

if the EMM says #4 is open it is not " communicating" with it electrically.
or a worst case ... THE EMM is suffering mental failure (bad EMM)


as far as the EMM is concerned it can not tell if an injector has a mecanical failure (except electrically of course. )

pull the J2 connector while the key is OFF

inspect j2 connector....... pin one for physical damage/corrosion etc...... if none then ....

VOM probe j2 pin#1 to which the green is attached. measure the green resistance from the pin#1 in the J2 connector up to the #4 connector green end to confirm full continuity end to end. resistance should be next to 0 ohms (full continuity) .

visually and closely inspect the matching #1 pin inside the J2 on the EMM look for corrosion, bent pin whatever.....

Apply electrical contact cleaner spray on J2 EMM and J2 connector side
reconnect and retest. may as well give a shot of cleaner in the injector connector to

The above instructions are based on my limited experience gained form E-TEC technology/trouble cases from the ETEC owner'S board but I am not a professionnal mecanic but....above suggestions is what I would do to my ETEC engine with a similar problem.
Ultimately if the issue proves to be EMM, you have the option of having it repaired. New ones are likely NLA . Farther down the road if you feel the injector is internally stuck..... you can always try soaking the inside with some light lubricant and pulsing it manually with an external battery source. 12 v should create some reaction. Let it soak a few days if you have to. One alternative is to send it to a Inj. shop

So that j2 connection green wire will just pull out of the plug that’s attached to the emm? Don’t wanna ruin nothing just make sure

 

[Crosbyman]

did not not say to pull out the wire from the connector itself ...

just remove the J2connector to access the terminal end of the green wire pin #1 inside the connector .

test continuity with the other extremity in the injector clip connector.

while measuring twist turn bend the green wire to ensure their is no break.

also test the same green to ground while both connectors
are disconnected. you should not see continuity to ground anywhere

 

[Landshark93]

did not not say to pull out the wire from the connector itself ...

just remove the J2connector to access the terminal end of the green wire pin #1 inside the connector .

test continuity with the other extremity in the injector clip connector.

while measuring twist turn bend the green wire to ensure their is no break.

also test the same green to ground while both connectors
are disconnected. you should not see continuity to ground anywhere

Cleaned all connectors with cleaner & air

did not not say to pull out the wire from the connector itself ...

just remove the J2connector to access the terminal end of the green wire pin #1 inside the connector .

test continuity with the other extremity in the injector clip connector.

while measuring twist turn bend the green wire to ensure their is no break.

also test the same green to ground while both connectors
are disconnected. you should not see continuity to ground anywhere

continuity looks good doesn’t seem to be any damage anywhere on the connectors I did have to wiggle my meter probes in there a bit to get it to beep tried other injectors same thing ..

 

[Crosbyman]

if green is ok not much left....you tried 2 injectors with same results OPEN

that leavese EMM as the main suspect .

one last test withJ2 connected and inj#4 connected & key on....

you can try to probe the green at the J2 pin#1.... insert a very small pointy probe in the rear end of J2-1 .... confirm that you see a voltage ...it should be 12v looped back from the Injector coil to J2-1

if you have to.... pin prick the green . reseal it after with a dab of glue or finger nail polish ... test the voltage presence.

 

[Landshark93]

if green is ok not much left....you tried 2 injectors with same results OPEN

that leavese EMM as the main suspect .

one last test withJ2 connected and inj#4 connected & key on....

you can try to probe the green at the J2 pin#1.... insert a very small pointy probe in the rear end of J2-1 .... confirm that you see a voltage ...it should be 12v looped back from the Injector coil to J2-1

if you have to.... pin prick the green . reseal it after with a dab of glue or finger nail polish ... test the voltage presence.

Ok I will do this here shortly thank you

 

[Landshark93]

Ok I will do this here shortly thank you

I have called dfi tech and and explained to them the testing I’ve done and they said faulty computer so gonna package the computer up and get it sent off 732$ for rebuild

 

[Crosbyman]

k we were at that stage i guess....let us know when you fire it up after repairs

 

[Landshark93]

k we were at that stage i guess....let us know when you fire it up after repairs

Computer is on its way back the number #4 injector circuit was bad inside the computer has fresh rebuild will update when have the computer installed thanks guys

 

[Crosbyman]

thanks for feedback....

 

[Landshark93]

thanks for feedback....

Another question I’m putting new spark plugs in and I read that your suppose to face the gap towards the fuel injector but I installed the plugs and there’s no way to get them all that way unless I over tighten or under tighten is it that pertinent ?

 

[racerone]

Try the plugs in different holes.----The procedure is called indexing.----Use a torque wrench and do not exceed 17 FT LBS.----4 sparkplugs and 4 different holes , you should be able to come close.

 

[Crosbyman]

and worst case.... you may have to try new plugs.

to bad Merc type Perma gap plugs couldn't have been used. :-(

 

[Landshark93]

Try the plugs in different holes.----The procedure is called indexing.----Use a torque wrench and do not exceed 17 FT LBS.----4 sparkplugs and 4 different holes , you should be able to come close.

I will try this thanks !!

 

[Landshark93]

Emm is back on and the #4 injector is working now !! But after running the motor for a minute code 35 no oil pressure or faulty switch so going to run through the steps and figure out what is wrong I will have to run and buy a vacuum device problems after problems with this motor …..