1976 Johnson 9.9hp forward gear issue.

[Charles Greg]

Hello,
I'm having an issue with the motor not wanting to go in to forward gear while running. It goes in revers fine but in order to go forward I have to hold the shifter with a lot of pressure just to limp back to the dock. It was doing fine all morning, but about 3 hours later is when this issue popped up. The odd thing is, I've had the motor a few years and this has happed in the past. I would shut it off and spin the prop by hand while holding the shifter in forward - then back to neutral - start it then it world go in to forward no problem. However wouldn't work this time.

I've tried adjusting the linkage, I've also taken the lower apart and inspected the dog/gears and didn't look too warn to me. The lugs on the dog are a tiny bit rounded and the grooves in the gears are as well. However I'm thinking the lugs on the dog might be worn down in thickness. I can't seem to find any measurement specs on how thick the dog is supposed to be lug to lug and the depth of the grooves in the gears. I measured the dog with calipers and it is 0.921". Has anyone else experienced a similar issue? Obviously just replacing parts would normally be easy, but having a hard time finding them - also not sure it would solve the problem.

Here are some pics, I'm thinking those wear grooves on the dog are not supposed to be there?

 

[racerone]

The parts look just fine.----Or ----There is NOTHING WRONG with them.----So the issue is in adjustment.----Is the lower shift rod fully screwed into the lower unit.?-----Are notches on shift rods lined up before the bolt is put in ?

 

[Charles Greg]

The parts look just fine.----Or ----There is NOTHING WRONG with them.----So the issue is in adjustment.----Is the lower shift rod fully screwed into the lower unit.?-----Are notches on shift rods lined up before the bolt is put in ?

Yes the rod was fully threaded in, I’m guessing that’s not supposed to be the case? I takes 6 turns to fully thread in, what would you recommend? If I go half way (3 turns) would that be safe? Or is it something I’ll have to play with to find the sweet spot?

 

[racerone]

No it should be fully threaded in.----Only backed out to line up the bend in the rod with brass connecter and upper rod.

 

[Charles Greg]

No it should be fully threaded in.----Only backed out to line up the bend in the rod with brass connecter and upper rNo it should be fully threaded in.----Only backed out to line up the bend in the rod with brass connecter and upper rod.

Okay, would it be a bad idea to back it off a couple turns so the shift forks can move further to cause better engagement? I wouldn't go more then 1/3 or is that not a good idea?

 

[racerone]

It was clearly stated that the lower rod should be fully threaded in.----Just incase you questions the level of help here, I started working on outboards in 1968 and have more than 1 of those lower units on the shelf.

 

[Charles Greg]

It was clearly stated that the lower rod should be fully threaded in.----Just incase you questions the level of help here, I started working on outboards in 1968 and have more than 1 of those lower units on the shelf.

First of all I want to say thank you for your input. Secondly I was just asking questions to cover all bases wasn’t trying to offend, didn’t know your back ground. Im not a mechanic, but I can understand the frustration in my trade that i’ve been doing for 20 years when someone second guesses me lol. Anyways I think I found the problem: I was just cleaning out the lower housing and a random ball bearing fell out, the 2 bearings and spring were accounted for when taking it apart. I’m thinking at some point when it was previously taken apart they lost one of the bearings not realizing it fell in to the housing and they just replaced it. Must have being randomly getting bound up between the clutch and gear which is what was probably causing those grooves as well.