1979 80HP Mercury kill Switch

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
Hi,
I was wondering if someone could please tell me, How does the kill switch work on my 80 hp mercury out board. What wires do I use to go on kill switch at motor? Right now I have to choke it to turn engine off and, will the 80 hp pee while in neutral cause im not getting any water coming out..

Thanks in advance
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,481
It should pee about 3 seconds after the motor starts.----And those motors need a new water pump impeller about every 3 or 4 years.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
It should pee about 3 seconds after the motor starts.----And those motors need a new water pump impeller about every 3 or 4 years.
So then even in neutral is should pee hey and the impeller should be replaced. Might have finished it when I was turning the flywheel by hand.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,481
???----The water pump is driven by the driveshaft.-----The motor should pee about 3 seconds after it starts !
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
???----The water pump is driven by the driveshaft.-----The motor should pee about 3 seconds after it starts !
Thanks, guess I was just making sure that it should pee when the motor is running. I know the importance of it.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
OK, if the motor is a 1979, it will have 4 coils and 1 switchbox. The ign kill switch will ground the orange (or salmon)-colored wire, to kill the spark.

The orange (or salmon) colored wire will be avail on the switchbox at the engine, and avail inside the control.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
OK, if the motor is a 1979, it will have 4 coils and 1 switchbox. The ign kill switch will ground the orange (or salmon)-colored wire, to kill the spark.

The orange (or salmon) colored wire will be avail on the switchbox at the engine, and avail inside the control.
Thanks, that info really helped. Now, any information on my hydraulic lift would really help. I have the lift with 4 hoses and am wondering what the coloured wires are for. I know green is up, blue is down when both touches to red but what’s the purple wire for?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
Originally your PTT unit had a trim limit switch. It was on the starboard PTT bracket, and it plugged into the main harness under the splashwell. I think the wires were purple. The trim limit switches broke all the time, and the workaround was to unplug the limit switch and jumper the two purple wires in the harness together.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
Originally your PTT unit had a trim limit switch. It was on the starboard PTT bracket, and it plugged into the main harness under the splashwell. I think the wires were purple. The trim limit switches broke all the time, and the workaround was to unplug the limit switch and jumper the two purple wires in the harness together.
Could you tell me the difference between trailer position and up position. Does trailer mean it goes higher for trailering and what two wires operate that?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
The trim limit switch was set to keep the motor from "trimming" out of the transom bracket. On the original control, push and hold the center button for trim.

If you wanted to trailer the boat, you push the top and middle button together to bypass the trim limit switch and allow the motor to "Tilt" all the way up.

On your PTT unit, the only difference between trim and tilt was the amount. The mechanicals were the same.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
Very helpful..thanks.
Any way you could tell me what I might have done wrong replacing my impeller? Somehow I bent the bottom carb butterfly spring and now they don’t move together. I thought the leg was going back into place correctly.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
The upper shift rod can rise up if not mated to the lower shift carb and impact the carb.

There is a molded plastic fitting that holds the upper shift rod in place, in the midsection. They often fall into the gearcase where they do not function, or they get lost. If you have this fitting, make sure it is installed in the midsection when installing gearcase. Stick it in with grease or something.

To install the gearcase: Tilt the motor all the way up. lock it up if necessary. Make sure the plastic water tube extension is in the waterpump output. Grease the splines on driveshaft and shiftshaft. Slide driveshaft into midsection. Insert copper water tube into plastic water tube extension. Push and hold gearcase into midsection. Turn flywheel until driveshaft splines mate. Push until shift shafts meet. They may mate or you may need to rock the throttle handle to help them mate. If you don't have the fitting, you may need to use a needle nose plier to move the shiftshaft, from outside the midsection, to help it mate.

Put a nut on the front stud and using only your hands (never wrenches), wiggle the gearcase on. Make sure the upper shift shaft is mated with the lower shift shaft, or it will be pushed up into the lower carb.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
The upper shift rod can rise up if not mated to the lower shift carb and impact the carb.

There is a molded plastic fitting that holds the upper shift rod in place, in the midsection. They often fall into the gearcase where they do not function, or they get lost. If you have this fitting, make sure it is installed in the midsection when installing gearcase. Stick it in with grease or something.

To install the gearcase: Tilt the motor all the way up. lock it up if necessary. Make sure the plastic water tube extension is in the waterpump output. Grease the splines on driveshaft and shiftshaft. Slide driveshaft into midsection. Insert copper water tube into plastic water tube extension. Push and hold gearcase into midsection. Turn flywheel until driveshaft splines mate. Push until shift shafts meet. They may mate or you may need to rock the throttle handle to help them mate. If you don't have the fitting, you may need to use a needle nose plier to move the shiftshaft, from outside the midsection, to help it mate.

Put a nut on the front stud and using only your hands (never wrenches), wiggle the gearcase on. Make sure the upper shift shaft is mated with the lower shift shaft, or it will be pushed up into the lower carb.
I will take it apart and try again. Can I bend the bottom carb rod spring thing back or is it finished now?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
I do not know. The carb throttle shaft and spring are replaceable, if you can find a used carb to cannibalize.

On the other hand, it is just a spring. Maybe it can be bent back well enough.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
I do not know. The carb throttle shaft and spring are replaceable, if you can find a used carb to cannibalize.

On the other hand, it is just a spring. Maybe it can be bent back well enough.
Another question if you don’t mind. What is the lever for on my quick silver control box behind throttle lever?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,481
I think you are referring to the fast idle lever.-----Used for cold starts and warm up.----It is to be all the way down before using the big lever for shift / throttle control.
 

Kissdude

Seaman
Joined
Sep 7, 2024
Messages
68
I think you are referring to the fast idle lever.-----Used for cold starts and warm up.----It is to be all the way down before using the big lever for shift / throttle control.
So does this lever have to be up when you start the engine cold?
 
Top