helm wiring, should be simple, i'm not too bright.

dingbat

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I think the following is correct:
I will cap off old positive wire at both battery and helm and we are good (will label under helm)
It is all feeding off new 10 ga positive and that is ok even when I add new stuff
It will be ok if I have both grounds hooked up
The three original circuits will use the old wire to ground
Anything new hooked up (radio and horn and USB ports) will use the new 10 ga wire for ground.
Nothing wrong per se, just be aware that electricity takes the route of least resistance. That’s what ohm’s law explains in the triangle I posted above.

If a wire increases in resistance, electricity can/will find a different path to close the circuit, possibly overloading another circuit.

There are situations where power can get back feed through a ground, in effect turning your ground into a power line.

When this happens, all kinds of weird things can happen, including damage to the electrical system.

Failed/failing motors (bilge pumps) are a common cause of this phenomenon.
 

redneck joe

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So here where I was at yesterday before the real heat kicked in. I've been working g at the side of the boat from the driveway u til I get dialed, then will mound all up under the helm and dress the wires and functioning, however note nothing hooked to negative buss. Original harness hooked to battery and work as it should, just two new wires hooked to battery and does not work. New red and old black work.


Have lights and bilge hooked up. 1750687921867.jpeg
 

redneck joe

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I learned today you can blow a fuse and it doesn't look blown and the ohms read a closed circuit but this gie that needs power will not work until new fuse put in. And and the led that is supposed to tell me blown circuit didn't come o. Either.
 

redneck joe

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So alldoge this is the old circuit breaker back under the transom. To my post about the thingies that needs power not working unless I hook up the old negative wires I'm assuming it has to do with how all three thingies were wired to the helm. And my question about having both the old and new wires all connected.

The cut wire on the right were to the front for a trolling motor that I have removed.

1750688369964.jpeg
 

dingbat

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How / what will be the indicators? Both bilge and livewell pumps are new so hoping but.....
Occurs when a motor shorts thru the windings.
I went to the boat one night to the red light on the bilge pump switch just barely glowing.

Pump armature locked up.
Ultimately the culprit was water in the bilge that froze, actuating the float switch. With no water to cool it, the motor burned up then shorted through the windings
 

alldodge

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If the things are grounded in other locations so long as they go back to battery ground, it should work without the buss on the fuse block

The switches look ok so long as switch on the right showing a black wire does NOT go to ground, but something that needs power
1750687921867-jpeg.408951
 

redneck joe

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Too dam hot to work much i get about an hour in.

All hooked up, need my new wiring with eye rings to the battery. My buddy is coming to do those and check over things.

Realized I never had a horn so got one of those in yesterday. Started to hook up but can't take it.

Both pumps are in and working as they should. New big.e shoot the water about six foot off the side... going to add a couple power points for the tablet and phone. Also have a 47k ma/h solar charger that stays on the upper windows in the sunroof and I always throw that in the boat bag.

Need to do some personal administrative work then the pool awaits.

Thanks for all the help.
 

Fj40fiji

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I think this is sinking in, but I like this explanation so I’ll share it. Buss bars are like manifolds in your fluid analogy. It’s like an open plenum where electricity can flow freely between conductors connected to it. It gives you a convenient place to make multiple connections.
When you installed your fuse panel, you can think of each circuit as if it was stand alone on its own battery. The negative terminal is reached through the ground buss, and the positive terminal is reached through the fuse. Each fuse has one leg bussed together inside the panel, and the other leg is bussed to its individual terminal.
Always test resistance on fuses to establish they are still good when trouble shooting. Countless hours of troubleshooting have been collectively wasted because a fuse looked good. Many working components have been changed because someone couldn’t bench test the component and didn’t bench test the fuse. You can often see when they are burnt, but it takes only seconds to verify with a meter.
I’ve managed to wire lots of things without much more understanding than where you are. There was no magic, just route a wire, hook it up, see if it worked, fix it till it does and go to the next circuit. Once that’s done try to loom it and get looking clean, protected form edges etc. Sometimes I. That step I’m rerouting a wire and reterminating the wire because I left it too long.
Just keep going, right?
 

redneck joe

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OK i think Google helped me on this one so just checking. Running two 2.1v USB chagers to the helm. From fuse block to thingie that needs power and back I'm using 14 ga wire. A 5v fuse should work?
 

redneck joe

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Ordering a horn switch today so in yall opinion, would you rather mash or pull to set the horn off?
 
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redneck joe

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16 gauge will work but way larger then needed, 18 gauge will work
Going thru all my scrap wire I've saved over the years since using what I have. I can finally tell my wife 'I told you I'd use it'

I've found so much stuff in my garage on this project from others. Been combining, trashing, using and sorting. I have prob 1000 screws from other boat projects that I've been sorting thru.
 

redneck joe

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Ok, started at 0530 this morning to beat the heat so I then got to work in-between thunderstorms until about 1030, then the heat index went from 88 to 107 in less than an hour so I called it good. Hit the pool and good nap before I went to CO-OP to get a load of mulch.

I did however get one of the USB ports in and charged my phone so it's working. It's a dual port so I'll be able to have the tablet for navigation hooked up at the same time. I'll eventually add the other one but trying to not let project creep take over. Lots of family coming this next month so want to be functional.

Bilge and fish pumps and nav lights hooked up and back in the dash. Bow nav not working, low on my list of things to do. Been prob 10 years since I was out at night and I was already anchored for the night.

Horn hole cut out. It's one that has a grill and mounted under the helm to sound gets outside the helm. Waiting to get the switch before I finish wiring but I did touch bare wires and all is good. Hole for the switch is drilled opposite side of others so I can easily mash it when pissed off.

Lastly took a chunk of the leftover floor wood, OTF then mounted under helm to mount the fuseblock to when I get the horn hooked up. I purposely cut all the wires long so I could do all that stuff while standing outside the boat or at least sitting on my work stool at the helm rather than laying on my back sootching around. I'll have to do that the to dress all the wires and other stuff but shouldn't be too bad just for that portion.

Overall good day. Hope that stays the same for tomorrow. Timeline is getting tight.
 

redneck joe

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Horn hole. Like me, ain't real pretty but does everything that needs to get done. Semi freehand, no template provided.

1750969320947.jpeg
 
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redneck joe

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I enlarge the hole that apparently used to have the gps lines run thru is as it had an old crusty grommet. I've got some half inch starboard I'll prob lay down over the other holes and mounted my tablet holder the underside of the starboard and use existing holes to secure from underneath. I really try not to add new holes.


1750969683449.jpeg
 
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