Did you ever figure it out? I have the same type of custom trailer, and there does not seem to be a way to attach guide poles. Seems like it would be possible with some kind of adapter, which I may try get custom made if they aren't sold anywhere.Has anyone installed the trailer guide poles on a trailer for a Tahoe 1950 deckboat? If so where did you get, did you install at back or trailer or middle since boat is wide?
Thanks
By any chance do you have a 1950 Tahoe and can share a pic?The poles are mainly useful as a visual indicator of where the trailer is, which can be helpful if you have trouble seeing the trailer when backing up or when trying to load the boat. But they are not so good for guiding the boat onto the trailer; their brackets bend pretty easily if the boat slams into them.
The poles I installed are "CE Smith Trailer Post Guide-On with LED Lighted Posts" and they allow you to extend the poles pretty far out from the trailer. How much clearance do you need?
Switching to a drive on trailer with target bunks was a no brainer once I saw one in action.I launch and load by myself, with self centering rollers and side guides,
No need to buy a " drive on" trailer, most any trailer can be turned into a drive on trailer with a few addons and adjustments.Switching to a drive on trailer with target bunks was a no brainer once I saw one in action.
The poles are mainly used to line up the boat with the trailer. The poles only contact the hull on the rub rails. Don’t have to worry about debris (sand) getting stuck in rub board (side guides), scratching up the gelcoat. The bunks that do all the heavy lifting.
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Sure, you could rig something up I guess, but the torsion V axle conversion (lowers trailer to ground) alone would cost me $2,000 plus labor alone.No need to buy a " drive on" trailer, most any trailer can be turned into a drive on trailer with a few addons and adjustments.
Why change out the axle ? I suppose there are extreme cases, but in my experience, adjusting the rollers/ bunks and adding guides was all that has been necessary.Sure, you could rig something up I guess, but the torsion V axle conversion (lowers trailer to ground) alone would cost me $2,000 plus labor alone.
To that you have to add the cost of the target bunks, misc brackets and hardware, adjustable guide poles, etc. Could easily see the conversion of an existing trailer costing all most as much, with labor, as new
Tide….Why change out the axle ?
Not ever living in a tide area, that was never in my thoughts..Tide….
Running a continuous variable hull. Bow drafts 14” more than the stern. Basically a big wedge.
The torsion axle combined with the extra clearance carries the boat 10-12” lower than its predecessor. Can float the #5k hull to the bow stop in knee deep water.