Looking for my first boat and dwelling too much on the I/O vs Outboard question...

[IdahoPotato]

I'm looking at getting my first larger ( than a 14ft with a 20 hp) vintage boat. Aluminum only. Wife would like a cuddy so I have been looking at the 18 t0 22 ft ones. I don't mind mechanicals so I have have little fear of buying a boat back to the 50's even. I do find that once you hit 20 feet they are mostly I/O. I don't want to drain my wallet to go fishing but I image a kicker for trolling will solve that. This is mostly for inland lakes and larger rivers. I will keep my smaller boat for others. My neighbor says there is a big difference every 2 feet of boat in "feel" . Any thoughts or pro's and con's for a 60's or 70's Starcraft, Crestliner, etc?. Worth the money to go newer into the welded 90's? Thanks for any input. My buddy says you never get it right the first time.....

 

[Chris1956]

I/O engines are mostly obsolete at this point. 4 cycle OBs are a lot lighter, as fuel efficient and have much less maintenance requirements.

If you plan the trailer the boat, an OB's light weight makes it much easier. Figure a V6 I/O weighs in at 1100# vs less than 600# for an OB. 2 cycle motors can weigh even less.

Cuddy cabins have been largely replaced by walk-around style boats. The only WA boat in which I thought the cuddy was decent was a 23 footer.

Take your time and poke around a bit. I had picked out a boat to buy in a boatyard, and when I went back to buy it, it had been parked next to another boat that I liked much much better. I bought that one, and have had it since 2006.

 

[airshot]

I owned a 22' Islanders for over 10 years and the family loved it ! Porta potty space and a dry place to store stuff. Mine had the 140 hp 3.0 engine that pushed it to 34 mph ( gps). Fuel economy was great, my 25 gallon tank would last for over 100 miles. Yes maintenance is higher but if you can do it yoyrself, it is no big deal. Parts care much cheaper than OB parts and these newer light weight four stroke out boards are newer models, not those from the eighties and early nineties. If your looking at models within the past ten years, give serious consideration to these newer outboards, but if your like many out there and this is a first boat and you looking at older models, don't be afraid if an I/O as long as you can find one that has been cared for....but then this is true no matter what you buy...care and maintennence is everything !!

 

[cyclops222]

If you get a GOOD motor ? Anything is great.
Can you do simple maintenance items on a car engine ?
A Aluminum hull is what you want at 20 feet + or - . Aluminum hulls SHOULD NOT have wood and foam floors to replace. It will take a while to find a good one.
I have always got it right the first time. Luck beats skill every time.
What is the budget for the boat ?

 

[redneck joe]

Aluminum hulls SHOULD NOT have wood and foam floors to replace.

In what world? I just replaced my wood floors and foam. Several threads going on here right now with wood and foam. Anything since 79 i think has foam.

OP. Stay aluminum and outboard imo, unless you like turning wrenches. If so, go for it. I'll never do it again. If my outboard takes a crap on me I'll spend less than a grand on another used one to swap in a couple hours maybe 12 beers to a buddy and keep chugging on. Also easier to add a kicker to another outboard imo.

You don't mention budget or family situation to help a whole lot with with size requirements.


Too bad you are in ID, gota buddy in FL with an 18 Chieftan outboard ready to put back together...

 

[cyclops222]

The USCG does NOT require any type of flotation in a boat 20' or longer.

 

[Chris1956]

That may be, but my 21 footer has floatation. I would expect many boats up to at least 35 foot have floatation. Maybe more, as the loss of life torts are quite severe.

 

[cyclops222]

Anybody have definite data from popular boat companies. That do guarantee a occupied boat. With people, engines and gear will not sink or rollover ?