SX-M Outdrive "Impossible" Removal

[Wanna Tango]

2000 Seaswirl Striper 2600
Volvo-Penta 5.7 gxi
Volvo-Penta SX-M outdrive

I had previous post of getting high temperature at 3k rpm or higher. After feedback from this forum and others, I decided to pull the outdrive out to see the seals at the water intake in the upper unit. I was not successful at separating the drive from the pivot housing. I have just had this boat for 2 years now and I can admit, it has a lot of neglect from the prior owner and don't think this has ever been maintained. I tried soaking it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster and others), try to insert thin safety wire along the threads to loosen the build-up, heat, tapping the drive, even putting a block of wood between the gimbal ring and the hump on the top of the drive, then run the trim Up also placing a block of wood underneath against the trailer and running the trim down. Nothing at all.
I ended up removing the pivot housing with the drive and saw that the nipple for the water hose was cracked so I take it that would be the culprit of the high temp.
Not sure if there is anything out there that some one can suggest to separate the drive from the pivot housing or the corrosion around the studs. Not sure if I should try hitting the spline to force the separation from that side or even how much heat is too much.
Any suggestion will be REALLY appreciated before this ends up in a divorce with the wifey.

 

[alldodge]

@kenny nunez @Scott Danforth

 

[Scott Danforth]

Kroil or a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF work better than PB Blaster

keep soaking and trying the wood block. it took years of neglect and corrosion to get it stuck. it will take days of working on it to get the drive off the pivot housing.

you could also have the shaft rusted into the bearing. in that case, the shaft and bearing will be coming out with the drive.

work slowly. remember, this is no longer a 20 minute job to remove an outdrive.

there are some un-conventional things I have done to help a buddy. with all the fasteners loose (not off) , and a 2" wide strap and a come-along, I have put aft tension on the drive (just above the cav plate and below the trim cylinder bosses and smacked the drive casting with a deadblow while having my buddy on the button trimming in. that would move the drive about .001" at a time. progress is progress. after about a half hour we hosed everything down again with penetrating oil and let sit for a while. I think we took about 6 hours to get the drive off and the bearing did come with the shaft. having even used the nuts to pull it back on a bit, then pull on it again to walk it off

corrosion builds up around the 6 studs in the bolt holes. if the u-joint bellows leaked, the shaft will most likely be rusted into the bearing

when you do get it off, you will need to remove the corrosion, re-paint the housing, and I suggest liberal amounts of permatex #3 in the bolt holes and around the studs to make removing the drive easier in a year.

 

[Wanna Tango]

Kroil or a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF work better than PB Blaster

keep soaking and trying the wood block. it took years of neglect and corrosion to get it stuck. it will take days of working on it to get the drive off the pivot housing.

you could also have the shaft rusted into the bearing. in that case, the shaft and bearing will be coming out with the drive.

work slowly. remember, this is no longer a 20 minute job to remove an outdrive.

there are some un-conventional things I have done to help a buddy. with all the fasteners loose (not off) , and a 2" wide strap and a come-along, I have put aft tension on the drive (just above the cav plate and below the trim cylinder bosses and smacked the drive casting with a deadblow while having my buddy on the button trimming in. that would move the drive about .001" at a time. progress is progress. after about a half hour we hosed everything down again with penetrating oil and let sit for a while. I think we took about 6 hours to get the drive off and the bearing did come with the shaft. having even used the nuts to pull it back on a bit, then pull on it again to walk it off

corrosion builds up around the 6 studs in the bolt holes. if the u-joint bellows leaked, the shaft will most likely be rusted into the bearing

when you do get it off, you will need to remove the corrosion, re-paint the housing, and I suggest liberal amounts of permatex #3 in the bolt holes and around the studs to make removing the drive easier in a year.

Thanks for the tip on the acetone and ATF. I do have the outdrive off the boat and on a table and I angled it downward to allow the Penetrant to pool around the 6 bolts to see if that helps (unable to attach a picture but can't) and also trying to scrape anything out of the threads with thin safety wire. As you said "Progress is progress". I was able to remove the shaft without the bearing coming out so that was not rusted together (thankfully and surprisingly, the bearing was very well greased up as I had added grease through the fitting with the grease gun).
I will keep you posted on the progress or even next steps and really appreciate you and this forum. Great place for DIYers and beginners!!!! People like you is what makes it worth using this resource.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Wisdom comes from Experience.....
Experience comes from Mistakes and Bad decisions..... (I also buy basket cases and deal with corrosion, etc.)

 

[kenny nunez]

If you have a sturdy table position the drive with the front down and the pivot housing just past the end of the table. If you have some ratchet straps use them to hold the drive in place or a volunteer to help you.
Screw the 6 nuts on the studs just to the nylon finger tight. Using hammer and long punch against the studs working around them might break loose the “white rust” and separate the housings. By now some of the penetrant should have gotten inside the area around the studs.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Expanding on Kenny's idea in his post. Get 6 coupling nuts to screw on vs the nylocs. That way when you thread on the longer coupling , you have larger area to hit with a bigger hammer that is further away from the case